k241 rebuild

[can whlvr 994]

as i posted a few times i rebuilt my 1978 c101 with a k241,my first total rebuild.i had it bored,crank micked(it is perfect)new piston,rod,rings,gaskets,valves.i got her running and she seems to be running really good,(i need a new carb when $ allows)it didnt have any crank shims when i tore it down so i didnt put any back in,i really dont know how to check 4 crank end play,should i be concerned,and does any body know about the pin that holds the acr gear in,they show a thrust washer in the pics but they are crappy pics,does this washer go inside the gear between the block and the gear,when i tore her apart the brass washer(thrust washer ?)was on the outside betwwen the pin head and the block,finally will it hurt any thing if my valve sptings are in up side down,another member posted about this and i too missed that info when putting her back together,any help would be really appreciated,thanks don

[rmaynard 16,331]

...it didnt have any crank shims when i tore it down so i didnt put any back in,i really dont know how to check 4 crank end play,should i be concerned,and does any body know about the pin that holds the acr gear in,they show a thrust washer in the pics but they are crappy pics,does this washer go inside the gear between the block and the gear,when i tore her apart the brass washer(thrust washer ?)was on the outside betwwen the pin head and the block,finally will it hurt any thing if my valve sptings are in up side down,another member posted about this and i too missed that info when putting her back together,any help would be really appreciated,thanks don

Here is what I can tell you. If you ordered a standard kit of gaskets and seals, whether from Stens, Kohler, or others, they usually include one bearing plate gasket and two shims. You check for end play by inserting the gasket and the same number of shims as you removed when disassembling the engine. With the bearing pate bolts torqued up to specs, check the end play with feeler gauges inserted between the bearing and the crank shoulder at either the PTO or the flywheel side of the crankshaft, inside the block. Anything from .003 to .020 is acceptable. I set mine at .011 using one gasket and one shim.

I don't know what you are referring to by "ACR gear". Are you talking able the camshaft gear with the ACR attached? If so, there are several STEEL shims available able in various thicknesses that go between the end of the camshaft opposite the gear, and the boss on the inside wall of the block. This is where you measure. You should have a gap of .005 to .010. I used a combination of 3 shims and set my gap to .007.

I never have gotten an answer as to what happens if the springs are inserted up-side-down, but I corrected mine. They wouldn't make them that way and tell you to install them with the "close coil" up if there wasn't a reason.

Here is a copy of a K-Series manual that has pretty good graphics.

Kohler K-Series Manual

[can whlvr 994]

thanks ray,i didnt have any shims in the crank but that doesnt mean anything,the auto compression release gear that is plastic is the one im talking about,guess ill be tearing her apart,i didnt know about the cam gear shims,and i dont think i have any crank end play,i also still need to know about the pin that holds the acr in,it is threaded and goes in on the front of the motor,maybe its called the govenor gear,i dont know where the thrust washer goes,inside or out

[rmaynard 16,331]

The plastic gear is the governor. The cross shaft gets inserted first, then there is a shim that goes onto the stub shaft, between the gear and the block. The long pin with the phillips head has a copper washer behind it. It threads in from the outside of the block to keep the governor gear on the stub shaft. This set of parts is the FIRST thing that goes into the engine when reassembling it.

All of this is very well explained in the manual, with pictures and text.

As was my problem, I didn't read it thoroughly before beginning the reassembly.

[can whlvr 994]

thanks again ray,i do have the crosshaft installed properly,and i do remember the shims for the cam gear,the only thing im not sure of is the crankshims and the play it should have,i actually downloaded and printed the kohler manual before i started but as u stated in a previous topic to FULLY read the manual,i guess i was in too much of a hurry and excited as well,im going to try to get the end play proper,and i need a new crosshaft pin,its slightly stripped and wont stay in place with the copper washer,ive got it ordered allready,will i need another gasket for the bearing plate if i need to tear it apart,looks like i may need another gasket kit if i pull the head and have to shim the crank