oldnugly 2 #1 Posted February 25, 2011 Pardon me if this has been discussed before but I'd like to hear from some people who know what they're talking about. When you put your Horse back in the barn do you close the fuel valve and let it run 'til it shuts down? What are some of the consequences of doing/not doing it? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VinsRJ 721 #2 Posted February 25, 2011 If I know that my RJs are going to sit for a while I shut the valve. I will also shut the valve when I'm traveling to a show. I only run the carbs dry at the end of the season. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
btrrg1969 11 #3 Posted February 25, 2011 Pardon me if this has been discussed before but I'd like to hear from some people who know what they're talking about. When you put your Horse back in the barn do you close the fuel valve and let it run 'til it shuts down? What are some of the consequences of doing/not doing it? I used to do that with my power equipment thinking it would keep the carb from gum'n up , but just sitting over the winter I dont anymore cause I dont think gas today has that proble :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mavfreak 11 #4 Posted February 25, 2011 Gas today still gums up but it also will deteriorate the gaskets. The ethanol is higher than in the past, and the gaskets can't handle it as well. If you know it'll be still for a couple of weeks then shutting off the gas and running the bowl dry is a good idea in my opinion Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Irv 115 #5 Posted February 25, 2011 I've always done it at the end of the season. Seem to start better in the spring. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sscotsman 132 #6 Posted February 25, 2011 Gas today still gums up but it also will deteriorate the gaskets. The ethanol is higher than in the past, and the gaskets can't handle it as well. If you know it'll be still for a couple of weeks then shutting off the gas and running the bowl dry is a good idea in my opinion From reading snowblower and tractor forums over the past several years, I have come across two conflicting ideas concerning gas and gaskets..im paraphrasing: 1. "Dont drain the gas for storage, because you dont want the gaskets to "dry out".. being exposed to air, they can dry and get brittle and crack..but leaving gas in the system keeps things lubed and preserves gaskets" 2. "Drain the gas for storage, because the gas will deteriorate the gaskets..its better to drain the carb and the system of gas, run it dry when going into storage" So which is it? Scot Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Audioshot 2 #7 Posted February 26, 2011 The carb float was stuck on my Simplicity snow blower (Briggs Intek Snow engine) last year and started to leak all over my garage. The machine is only three years old and is a big $$ top-of-the-line model, not a cheap-o box store one. Any hoo, I've been spooked since and always shut the fuel off when any machine I own is shut down. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse Fanatic 49 #8 Posted February 26, 2011 Nowadays most manufactures recommend storing a machine with stabilized fuel (at the long term rate) and with the fuel tank full to the top. The reason for the tank being full is the ethanol is hydroscopic (sp?) and tends to attract moisture. A partially filled tank can get some condensation and that can end up in the fuel. This is what I do and my stuff always starts one pull after sitting for months. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
can whlvr 991 #9 Posted February 26, 2011 one problem of running dry is its harder on the starter if u r going to do it all the time,its good at the end of season or i do it for my generatorand cement mixer,when travelling with the machine on a trailer or truck its a good idea because u can fill the block with fuel because the float can bounce around and if its not running the fuel just waits utill u go to start it and if it can ignite its a big problem,i have had my cement mixer do this,its a pull start and it feels like the engine is seized,then u have to change the oil so its a really good thing to do when transporting Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WheelHorse_of_course 99 #10 Posted February 26, 2011 I turn it off ONLY when transporting. But I do check the oil as part of my pre-start checklist. So I would know if the float stuck and filled the crankcase with gas. I use my tractor all year round so I do not run it dry nor do I routinely use stablizer. :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dgjks6 6 #11 Posted February 26, 2011 I grew up in a house with tons of mechanical toys and nothing worked - the tiller, the snowblower, the edger - (excpet the wheel horse - which had no battery and you had to jump). So I start everything every couple weeks - even in the winter. Sometimes if the weather is really bad may be up to 4 weeks between starts, but there is usually a good day in there somewhere. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 14,932 #12 Posted February 26, 2011 Take a look at the anatomy of a the bowl of a typical Carter #26 carburetor. When the carburetor runs "dry", you will still have gas in the bottom of the bowl, since the intake holes sit about 1/4" from the bottom. If you are going to shut off the fuel valve and run the engine until it stops, take the bowl off and dry it out. If not, the remaining gas can evaporate and leave a crusty mess, or gum up. Even products such as Sta-bil have failed for me in the past. Just my 2 cents worth. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse Fanatic 49 #13 Posted February 26, 2011 When the carburetor runs "dry", you will still have gas in the bottom of the bowl, since the intake holes sit about 1/4" from the bottom. Exactly! That's one reason it's recommended to store it with gas. There are newer fuel additives that are better with this ethanol fuel. I've used a briggs product called Star Brite which so far seems better than conventional fuel stabilizer. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JC 1965 1,528 #14 Posted February 26, 2011 I store 2 of my tractors every winter. I use fuel stabilizer year round, so I don't run mine dry or shut off the fuel valve. I take the batteries out of the tractors I'm storing and place the batteries in the basement where It's warm. Then when spring comes I charge the batteries and put them back in service. I do take the carbs off of the tractors every couple of years and clean them. Works for me !! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,257 #15 Posted February 26, 2011 I used to shut off the valves and run them dry, but in my old age, I have become lazy. I have not had any problems with either way. I do use the middle octane gas at the pumps though, and I add about 2 oz of Seafoam to my 2 gallon gas can when I fill it up. This seems to keep the fuel pumps and carburetor very clean and running sweet. Storing batteries was mentioned...so...when storing batteries, do not put them on a concrete floor or on the ground. You want to store them on a wood shelf or on wood on the floor to keep them from discharging. They will last longer. I would store them with a full charge also. :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Redbirdman 7 #16 Posted February 26, 2011 When you put your Horse back in the barn do you close the fuel valve and let it run 'til it shuts down? What are some of the consequences of doing/not doing it? You are asking at least two (actually three) questions here so let me say first: I close the fuel valve on everything that has a quick valve. I don't like screwing in the sediment bowl shutoff 'T' because they seem to wear out the seal (packing) quicker and then they drip. Almost everything gasoline powered I have in power equipment I have installed a quick (the red one) shutoff and a second inline filter. Over the past 30 years or so I have definitely noticed less trouble restarting equipment and less tanks running dry in the barn with this method. I have clearly noticed my Stil Cutoff and Tanaka hedge trimmer and weed eaters will leak all the fuel out if I do not shut them off. However, I have never seen them leak nor smelled them leak......but the sure do leak, (unless a pac rat is stealing the gas??? ) And that goes the same for both my old Harley's and the Kawasnoty. So, to prevent this slow disappearance of gasoline shutting the valve seems to help. But there is another reason too. It cuts down on the chances of a catastrophe leak! One that would dump a gallon of raw gas on the shed/garage/hanger floor in a matter of minutes if a line burst, or got snagged, chewed by a chipmunk, melted or even a small fire! And yes, I like to keep tanks full(or almost full)... Not so much because of hydroscopic action but because of condensation. A partially full tank will act like a miniature ecosystem and the cooling effect of gasoline will cause water to condense on the inside dry portion of the tank (just like clouds and rain) on a daily basis causing rust or at the least water in the bottom of the tank. And I never let a tank run or drain empty if I can help it because that Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chesbaycruiser 82 #17 Posted February 26, 2011 What Redbirdman said. :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites