Got wheel weights

[HankB 16]

I found a pair of 50 lb (each) wheel weights on CL and picked them up last night. They came with two threaded rods that had three nuts/washers on each.

I thought I'd ask here about mounting tips before I put them on. I can see that I could clamp the stud to the weight and then pull the weight into the wheel using a nut on the back side of the wheel. Or I could clamp the stud to the wheel with two nuts and then pull the weight into the wheel from the outer surface of the weight. Which is the preferred method?

Should I spend a couple $$ more for four studs/wheel? It seems like 50 lb is a lot of weight. (I carried them from the sellers shed to my truck through over 2 feet of snow - what fun!) On the other hand. they do seem to fit pretty snugly into the wheel, though they don't go very far in. (*)

Any other tips for mounting them? I'm not a weight lifter so this is something I'd like to do the easiest way possible. I'm probably going to try to use a floor jack to lift them into position.

thanks,

hank

(*) I'm wondering if I could backfill that empty space with some concrete to get a few more pounds/wheel. :thumbs:

[hcminis 1,532]

I use 9" carriage bolts (at least I think they are 9"). Slide them in from the inside of the rim through the weight. Then put a flat and lock washer on with my nut. Works good for me but others might have a different plan of attack.

Thanks

[C-160 Tractor 1]

I use 9" carriage bolts (at least I think they are 9"). Slide them in from the inside of the rim through the weight. Then put a flat and lock washer on with my nut. Works good for me but others might have a different plan of attack.

Thanks

I agree I went and bought carriage bolts and put them through the wheel from the back side.

My rims have 4 square holes that are like meant for mounting weights to the rims using carriage bolts.

if your rims are the same then I say go that route.

here is my rim

here it is with weights on.

mine stick out a tiny but as well, but no issues.

Mine are smaller and less weight than yours, so yours should run great in the snow.

I think yours will stick out a little further than mine, but thats ok.

I have seen some people where they stick out like 6" on each side.

I could't deal with that myself, you still need to be able to fit in between things ya know!

lol

good score on them BTW!

:thumbs:

[dcrage 621]

Those look like the Wheel Horse weights I got when I bought my plow from the local WH dealer back in 1991 -- Anyway they only came with 2 bolts for each weight and that is all I have used over the past 19 years without any downside -- For what it is worth I have the nuts on the inside of my wheel -- I don't take the weights off very often -- I leave them on year round

[GlenPettit 1,714]

Rub heavy grease (lithanium) on the threads, I'ld use a large washer then a lock washer under each bolt, and four bolts per weight. The carriage bolt heads as best on the outside of the plastic weight (add a large washer there also), so the excessive thread lengths are on the inside, could put a plastic cap on the threads showing.

If mounting on the tractor wheel, lay some 2x4's to the same level and then just roll the plastic weights into position. If you pour cement into the weights, give the moisture time to evaporate out or it may freeze.

Michigan Glen

[HankB 16]

Thanks, guys, for the tips. I've looked it over some more and here's what I decided to do. I already have threaded rod so I'm not going to buy carriage bolts, though I do find the thought of putting the square part into the square holes is pretty appealing.

I also looked at the weight and on the inside, the hole is tapered. There is no flat spot on which a nut could bear. So my thought about fasting the studs to the weight and then sliding the whole assembly into position is a no go.

Instead I'm going to fasten the rods to the wheels with a nut on either side. Then I can slide the weight over the studs and into place. Once in place, nuts on the outside will hold the weight in place until it's time to remove them.

Yes, either anti seize or thread locker is a good idea. (Lots of folks don't think of thread locker when it comes to preventing a rusted fastener, but in fact the thread locker will prevent rust while keeping the fastener from coming loose.)

Just to summarize, starting on the inboard end of the stud there will be:

nut - split washer - flat washer

square hole in wheel

flat washer - split washer - nut

empty stud - wheel weight

flat washer - split washer - nut.

I'm cutting the studs to length tonight. I know if I leave them sticking out, they'll hurt me sooner or later.

And yes... I'll get pictures!

-hank

[HankB 16]

I'm such a **** for pictures. And too many of you just enable me.

Studs cut to size and ready to install. (They ranged in length from 1" too long to 4" too long.

Studs mounted:

Weight in place:

It was fairly easy to mount them by just sliding them over the studs. That's probably why the back side of the holes were tapered. It made it easier to line them up. I did use blue Loctite. Particularly on the outer nuts, I didn't want to really tighten them too much against the plastic. I don't know what is under it, but it's not magnetic.

They look like they stick out a bit, but they're still narrower than the 48" blade.

I rearranged my snow piles a bit and the extra weight helps. The next time we get a record breaking storm, I'll be even better prepared.

Do these make my butt look big?

-hank

[C-160 Tractor 1]

Nice!

I was thinking about mounting mine with the bolts going the other way, but with carriage bolts there is no way to hold the round/square end. lol so thats why I used the square hole in my tractor, just kinda made sense.

I did cut the bolts down after installing the weights so I don't kick my leg on them or anything.

all set now.

but your weights look great with those bolts.!

perfect

[mr.pipes 4]

It might be a good idea to use all four holes. I got a set of plastic WH weights with with some other parts and it was cracked wide open at one of the mounting holes. I don't know how it happened but would guess it hit something because of how much they stick out. May not have happened if they were held on better. These were filled with metal shavings so it all spilled out. Less of a problem if they are concrete filled but thought I wold throw it out there.

You could also put acorn cap nuts on the end to eliminate damage to anything that may get hit or caught on the ends.

[C-160 Tractor 1]

It might be a good idea to use all four holes. I got a set of plastic WH weights with with some other parts and it was cracked wide open at one of the mounting holes. I don't know how it happened but would guess it hit something because of how much they stick out. May not have happened if they were held on better. These were filled with metal shavings so it all spilled out. Less of a problem if they are concrete filled but thought I wold throw it out there.

You could also put acorn cap nuts on the end to eliminate damage to anything that may get hit or caught on the ends.

Good tip, I just put a piece of rubber hose over the ends after I cut them on mine.

But those cap bolts would work to, I just didn't want to hit my leg on one.

Even though they don't even stick out past my chains lol I still didn't want to chance bumping one. ouch!

I'm also lucky because my weights are solid steel. lol

[dandan111 31]

Looks great. I only have two bolts on my 654 weights never

had a problem.

[mr.pipes 4]

Looks great. I only have two bolts on my 654 weights never

had a problem.

I was referring to plastic wheel weights when I suggested using all four bolt holes.

My WW-12 wheel weights (cast iron) only have two holes as well. I am not concerned with those tearing or cracking.

My plastic WH weights have four holes and I suggest using all four holes with washers. I bought another set that was mounted with only two and the mounting hole was torn open allowing the filler to leak.