closha63 0 #1 Posted February 4, 2011 Welp I have rebuild the engine K301 and replaced the flywheel with stator. The purpose on that was that i could not get the previous stator to put out A/C voltage. Now that i have A/C i can not get the regulator to out put anything to charger the battery. I went through the manual Diag sheet and all they say is to replace the regulator. Is the and Diag for just the regulator like resistance specs. or anything? Plus is it ok to have the B+ on the regulator going straight to the battery. or should it be switched so when the key is off the B+ is cut? Any help would be awesome.. Thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 15,936 #2 Posted February 4, 2011 First, a couple of basics. The stator should be producing 28 to 35 volts AC at 3600 RPM. Next, make sure that all of your grounds are good. Remove the regulator/rectifier and clean the area that makes contact with the tractor. Clean the metal of the tractor where it connects to the reg/rec. The +12V out of the reg/rec should actually be about +14.5V at 3600 rpm. If you don't have that, then you probably need a new unit. The cost to buy a good used one is about $20, and a new one can be had for about $40. Other than cleaning grounds, and connectors, there is to the best of my knowledge, nothing that can be serviced or repaired since it is a sealed unit. If you can find someone to repair it, you will probably pay more than the cost to replace it. The B+ goes through the switch, and through the ammeter, on its way to the battery. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WheelHorse_of_course 99 #3 Posted February 4, 2011 You can connect the B+ directly to the battery for testing purposes. SOme tractors where made that way, but later there was a Service Bulletin on that since in some cases there was leakage draining the battery. Do check the grounds. There was an autopsy of a regulator done here by squirrel boy and it was determined that not only must it be grounded, but that it must be grounded at each screw as the ground completes a path between parts of the regulator itself (in other words different parts of the circuit connect to the two screw holes. Good luck. :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
iicap 1 #4 Posted February 5, 2011 To add to above I want to tell of two instances. At a Ct meet and greet a couple yrs back. Young man says sometimes my tractor charges and then it doesn't we checked it over, nothing obvious. He shuts it off starts it again and now it's charging. We gently wiggled the key back and forth with the engine running and would charge and then stop We did this numerous times and agreed he needed a new ign switch Next on my C-81 with K341 engine, it stopped charging while throwing snow on one of our recent snowstorms. After taking a break and before going back to the snow removal, I unplugged the ignition switch, soaked terms and recepticle with WD-40 and plugged and unplugged the recepticle a half dozen times. Started it up and it's been charging fine ever since. These two things are worth investigating before popping fo a new regulator Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WheelHorse_of_course 99 #5 Posted February 5, 2011 These two things are worth investigating before popping fo a new regulator Amen :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
