Installing new decals

[kj4kicks 154]

This is mostly aimed at Karl, since I forgot to tell him about it yesterday, but it's good to know in general.

When installing your new decals, put a few drops of Dawn dish soap (or any brand, as long as it doesn't have skin moisturizers) in about a pint of warm water. Wipe the painted surface with this mixture, or use a spray bottle to apply it to the back of the decals. This way you can place the decals, and still be able to remove and re-position them if neccesary.

When you're happy with the placement, use a rubber squeege or similar item from the center to the ends to remove air bubbles.

[nylyon-(Admin) 8,574]

How long until the decals can be applied?

[kj4kicks 154]

I'd give the hood about 2 more weeks. There's a bunch of paint on there, and it needs to cure. You can go ahead install the dash, side, and rear fender decals anytime you want.

[linen beige 16]

Karl,

Wetting the surface with soap and water works alright with these smaller decals, but can leave a little soap residue under the decal. When I was working with our police fleet I noticed that our body shop guys would wet the surface with glass cleaner before applying the large decals to the side of our cruisers. It is actually slicker than the soap, making it easier to position the dacals just right, and once you use the squeege there is virtually no film between the decal and the surface. I have used both soap and glass cleaner, and I have to say that the glass cleaner is much better. Before they started using the glass cleaner we had problems with the edges curling up ( could be from those 130 mph winds along the front edges!). Our 'Horses may never see winds anywhere near 130 but high pressure water hoses pack a good punch. But do make sure to get all the glass cleaner off of that new paint. It probably won't attack it but I would dry it well just for safety's sake.

[kj4kicks 154]

A few DROPS in a pint of water isn't really even enough to work up any suds. I'd do that before using ammonia on uncured enamel.

If anybody needs me, I'll be :whistle:

[DMESS 24]

There are commercially available products just for this task, but like Eldon mentions a FEW drops of soap is all that's needed. I use an old Meguires "Quick Detailer" bottle for the task and it works great.

DON'T even try to put any of the large hood decals on dry. End result: :whistle:

[linen beige 16]

I'd do that before using ammonia on uncured enamel.

Good point! But not all glass cleaners have ammonia in them. The one we used didn't. It wasn't worth a diddly-dad-f*&^ for cleaning glass as it didn't cut bug juice very well, but worked great with the decals. I can't recall the brand name, I last "stickered" a cruiser in '99, but it smelled like Simple Green. And we were using it one brand new Fords, painted with enamel, with no adverse effects.

[joebob 45]

have any of you tried alcohol, you use it in a 50/50 mix with water in a spray bottle and keep it wet, it works great with the clear style films they use for stone protection on hoods and lowers of vehicles, it just doesnt have the same amount of slide as soap/water but it drys fast so you dont hurt the finish, you can also use the products made just for decals they realy give you lots of time to work with, if you need it and don't have the soap residue to worry about, you can find it at car paint supplers, I think modelers have it to just have never used it that way

[Butch 194]

We used a mixture of 50/50 mixture of water/alcohol for all the decals and graphics

on our dirt bike motorcycles years ago and had excellent results. I also used that method to apply 4x4 decals on my old truck. It gives you plenty of time to easily move the decals around and then then used a towel to smooth out the air bubbles. No residue when done.

[muka 9]

Regular old glass cleaner works great

[Rod(NASNUT) 1]

I put tint on my car glass with glass cleaner and it worked well :banghead:

[b-80chris 0]

I use glass cleaner thats tint safe for decals and pinstipping on new cars. just wipe up excess cleaner when done. It works the best. :banghead:

[ricky115 4]

:omg: just to let you know..these guys know what there talking about, i got my new decals from terry, they were perfect. applying them was a walk in the park thanks to the glass cleaner info. I used NAPA glass cleaner, sprayed the surface, applied the decal, it was easy to move into place,squeegeed off the excess,a-1 job. thanks guys...rick

[boovuc 1,090]

Oh I'll add my 2 cents on this one.

I work for a very large company that makes most of all the Pressure Sensitive Adhesives manufactured in North America. Decals being coated with a PSA and all, I would use a simple, right from the store bottle of rubbing alcohol and a light rag to go over the area that the decal will cover before applying.

I would do this on a recent or old painted surface. The 10% to 15% Isopropanol in water won't hurt a thing but will remove any light contaminants on the surface and will evaporate quickly. (Better yet is to make your own solution using 99% Isopropanol mixed at 10% to 15% in distilled water).

Any surfactant solution will leave some traces of residual soap. Surfactants and adhesives work against each other AFTER polymerization.

A lot of manufacturers use a re-peelable adhesive. It is a permanent adhesive but can be applied and if it isn't right, pulled off immediately and re-applied. Once it is where you want it, the adhesive will develop a permanent bond.

As I said.....my 2 cents!

Boovuc

[HorseFixer 2,013]

On my Horse Hauler which was pretty extensive on LARGE DECALS I cleaned the suface with rubbing alcohol the I used distilled water in a spray bottle with a couple drops of soap. Applied them with plenty of water and worked like a champ! :omg: