Stigian 1,234 #1 Posted May 10, 2008 Morning all ye Wheel Horse folk The never ending (well it feels never ending at times) Raider 10 saga continues First of all thanks TT and everyone else who helped me out with the wiring problem After a Thursday spent faffing around looking at the wires and ing, i thought **#&&!**# it (or punctuation marks to that effect) i dived in head first, clutching the remains of the 314's loom, a test meter and a print out of a wiring diagram (cheers TT ) Not having the right ignition switch didnt help , but i conqured my fear of the dreaded wires and got the engine running Here's a short vid for your viewing pleasure As you can see and hear, the engine refuses to run well at higher speeds. I soon found the problem, the main jet/needle/ has had a chunk broken off its tip I did try to take a few photo's of it but they all came out blured So here's my question guys, will the 14hp engine run well with a 10hp carb? Or will i have to bite the bullet and splash out on a new jet/needle/ for the 14hp carb? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kj4kicks 154 #2 Posted May 10, 2008 Hi Ian, Sorry I can't answer your question, but Congrats on getting her running again! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rollerman 290 #3 Posted May 10, 2008 Ian I think the 10-12 HP share the same carb while the 14-16 HP have a larger carb or atleast are setup to flow more. I'm not sure it will hurt it to swap carbs & run it on the 14 to see if it solves cure's the stumble. You'll be restricting the 14 a bit useing the 10HP carb...? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KyBlue 655 #4 Posted May 10, 2008 Congrats on getting the Wiring sorted, Im like you, never really enjoy doing wiring. Ive got a buddy that does it for a living, so he gets to do all my wiring..Much Easier for me - Cheap too (usually only a six pack AFTER the job of course) I wouldnt think that a Needle set is all that expensive?? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,162 #5 Posted May 10, 2008 Try borrowing just the needle out of the 10hp carb, Ian. You might need to open it up a bit more, but it should work. The 10hp carb is at least 2mm smaller than the 14hp carb (more likely 4mm), but would work IF you had to use it. Glad to see (and hear) you got it running! :whistle: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stigian 1,234 #6 Posted May 11, 2008 Cheers for all the advise and congrats guys Stephen - Yeah, i did wonder if the 10hp carb would restrict things a bit. 4starCstms - Thanks for the congrats on the wiring I think my wiring problem is i dont (or didnt) really know what i was doing In the end i made a close-ish copy of the original Raider loom as it seemed to match the engine wires the best A 1950's ex post office test meter came in hand for working out which connections on the ignition switch did what. A strange switch that needs to be turned 4 clicks to start the engine TT - I did try the needle from the original 10hp carb but the engine didn't want to run at all.. to be fair the 10hp needle isnt in the best of condition, i need to try the needle from the 1971 raider engine but i didn't feel like digging to the bottom of a box of parts at the time Tomorrows plan is to try different needles to see it it will run good. If not, try a 10hp carb and see what happens Any ideas of a company that sells the right needle and does mail-order :D Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kelly 1,033 #7 Posted May 11, 2008 Put the 10hp carb on it, you will be down on power some, but will get you going, that way you can look for a carb later. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WheelHorse_of_course 99 #8 Posted May 12, 2008 Ian, If the damage to the needle is at the tip why not try filing it down? Wiring is my thing! My brother used to have various trucks from the 1950's and I did a lot of work for him. Nothing beats soldered splices! Anyone in the NE Ohio area that needs hands on help can contact me. I also wired my brothers 1940's sloop. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mith 2 #9 Posted May 12, 2008 Ian, I think I sent you a link to SES Engine Services for the head gaskets. They should be able to sort you out with the right needle. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,162 #10 Posted May 12, 2008 Ian, If it's an OEM Kohler needle, they sometimes have the P/N stamped between the two sections of threads at the top. (you might need a magnifying glass to see it though.) If the number is there, that should help you get a replacement needle. They're around $20 over here - so don't be shocked when you hear the price. :whistle: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,162 #11 Posted May 12, 2008 If the damage to the needle is at the tip why not try filing it down? Rolf, I'm going to "let that one slide" this time. Apparently you've never seen a main jet adjusting needle from a Kohler carburetor? They're HOLLOW! :WRS: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stigian 1,234 #12 Posted May 12, 2008 :whistle: This engine runs great on the 10hp carb Photo's, a vid and more ramblings later this evening when ive calmed down a bit Im sooooo HAPPY :D Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
T-Mo-(Moderator) 4,610 #14 Posted May 12, 2008 Ian, That's great. I'm glad to hear that news. :whistle: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WheelHorse_of_course 99 #15 Posted May 12, 2008 Are the Walbros hollow too? The only time I looked at one was to wipe it off and I did not notice it was hollow, but I am over 45 so I can't see any more! I didn't use a magnifying glass. Glad you got her running! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,162 #16 Posted May 12, 2008 Yes, Walbro's with adjustable main jets have them too. This is how the fuel is transferred from the bowl up to the idle circuit passageways. Some needles also have a second set of holes centered with the throttle plate to assist in delivering fuel at higher RPM. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stigian 1,234 #17 Posted May 12, 2008 Ian, I think I sent you a link to SES Engine Services for the head gaskets. They should be able to sort you out with the right needle. Cheers Jim I also had an email from Wes overnight saying a should try the same place for parts, so i guess i should give them a ring and order some parts. I might as well give the carb a good rebuild while im at it Well, now ive managed to clam down a bit from my quick lunchtime post i can fill you in on the details My first job this morning was to find the carb from the 1971 Raider 10, putting the needle in the 14hp didn't help with fast engine running but the tick-over was pretty smooth <_< Plan 2 Put the original Raider 10hp carb on the raiders new engine, and for good measure put the main jet/needle/ from the 1971 Raider 10's carb into the original Raider carb. If you managed to understand the above sentence then, good on you I wrote it and im struggling Just as TT said the 10hp and 14hp carbs are different sizes. 10hp on the left (no its not the carb thats on the engine), and 14hp on the right. So, with the carb bolted on and all the rest connected it was time to turn the key It fired up first turn of the key, shut the coke off after 10 secs and let the engine warm up for a few mins. Engine warmer so i gave it a bit of gas and she sounded good Bit more gas and she still sounded good Grabbed the throttle and gave it all hell, the engine roared in that smoooth kinda way ive been dreaming of hearing for long long time Its been so nice to be finally able to drive the Raider after what must be almost a year of owning it Enjoy the pic's and vid Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kj4kicks 154 #18 Posted May 12, 2008 Way To Go Ian !! :WRS: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KyBlue 655 #19 Posted May 12, 2008 Awesome!!! I'm glad you got it all Sorted out. Sounds great too! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites