crank journal

[can whlvr 991]

so i tore into the k241 10 hp motor today,its from a c 101-8 1978 the connecting rod blew apart,doesnt apear to be any damage other than a little scoring on the journal,it feels rough scratches are not deep,can it be turned at a machine shop,and if they do do i now have to order a corresponding connecting rod?or does a bushing go in there after turning,sorry this is my first rebuild on a kohler,and how does the cam and gear come out,

[smoreau 658]

sounds like the crank can be turned, you may want the machine shop to check that out for you first. it would be .010 under sized and there are rods avalible that are .010 also. the cam has a rod about 3/8 dia. and it goes through the center of the cam. it is pressed into the block on both sides. You can go to kohler's web site and click on mannuels and down load the entire k series repair manuel for free. save it to your documents folder and it will be at your bec and call when ever you need it Good luck and I hope this helps

' :banghead:

[Kelly 1,028]

Have the machine shop check it out first, before buying a rod, there are no bearing or insert for them, unless you spend the money to have the rod set up for it, but I would suggest having them only cut it close till you have rod in hand, to match the grind on the crank to the actual rod size, not all are going to be exactly the same, they should be, but most are not.

[sorekiwi 761]

Sometimes the journal will be fine after a polish to get rid of all the aluminum pickup from the rod.

I have polished them myself using the "wrong" side of a strip of 180 grit emery tape (ie use the smooth side of the tape against the journal), but it's best to get the machineshop to give it a quick polish and measure to see if you need the undersize rod.

If the journal is still OK size wise they can finish polishing it, if not they'll grind it. They'll probably want the new rod before they grind the crank so they get the clearance right.

[can whlvr 991]

thanks guys,you guys help alot,it helps to kinda know what im talking about before i take it in,i had the kohler manual before this computer,ive just downloaded the manual,i will be back with lots more questions,om revved to build this girl back to new,if i get the motor right then im gonna redo the paint on her as well,thanks again,do most of u do the main bearings as well?they seem really good

[dgjks6 6]

I am in the slow process of rebuilding my first engine and I an learning a lot. How much are you planning to do? New everything or just the rod?

As elly said, I would plan on 2 trips to the machin shop.

First to measure everything so you know what to order - the size of the piston and the size of the rod.

To get the cam out you need a gooc punch. There is a rod that goes through it through 2 holes in the block. You punch it out from the PTO side if I am not mistaken.

If you are going to do a complete rebuild I can give you a list of tools I had to buy to do it.

[rmaynard 14,933]

Also, the crank pin can be turned to .020 under if necessary. Even though Kohler does not offer a .020 under rod, they are available in the aftermarket arena. PM me if you need one. I can put you in touch with a source a lot less expensive as the one found on eBay.

[Jim_M 178]

I normally take the main bearings out, clean them in solvent, and blow them out with air to be sure there's nothing in them. If they're good I oil them up to keep them from rusting while the engine is apart and re use them.

[sorekiwi 761]

What Jim said!

[TT-(Moderator) 1,128]

While blowing the bearings out with compressed air, resist the urge to let them spin and make that cool whirring sound. It's not really good for a bearing to be spun (fast) without lubrication.

Ball bearings will sometimes feel a little loose - and maybe even sound "rough" (like a tinny rattle) - when completely dry. Squirt or dip them in some clean motor oil and turn them by hand. They should be quiet and smooth with little to no side to side or up/down movement at the inner race.

In the 25+ years I have been working on these engines, I have never seen a main bearing failure - EVER.

[can whlvr 991]

thank you guys,it would be very daunting to do a first rebuild without the amazing help from everyone here,im probally gonna have it bored,piston rings,of course connecting rod,its in many pieces,i think valves,allthough they look very good,i think i will let the machine shop make that decision,im not goona do bearings as tt said they never seem to go bad,and i think in the kits they include points,am i missing anything,if so please chime in and i REALLY appreciate the help,the machine shop said the last kohler he did cost 1500.00 i think i can do it alot cheaper,he wants 100 to bore,i dont know about the crank yet,and if i get the kohler parts locally(which i think i will take up the previous offers here)200.00for a complete kit,no bearings or balance gears but all the other stuff

[can whlvr 991]

here is some pics of the progress,i had to make a spring compressor,the cylinder is in good shape,if its not worn too bad it might only need a hone,thats up to the machinest to measure,i broke the darn pulley,it slipped right off with a little heat and then i dropped it because it was hot

[Scrumpy 5]

Don,

Not really to do with the rebuild but get a rubber mat to put on the floor in front of your workbench. I will save your parts when you drop them and your feet and back will be more comfortable.

Dave :banghead:

[KB9LOR 4]

thank you guys,it would be very daunting to do a first rebuild without the amazing help from everyone here,im probally gonna have it bored,piston rings,of course connecting rod,its in many pieces,i think valves,allthough they look very good,i think i will let the machine shop make that decision,im not goona do bearings as tt said they never seem to go bad,and i think in the kits they include points,am i missing anything,if so please chime in and i REALLY appreciate the help,the machine shop said the last kohler he did cost 1500.00 i think i can do it alot cheaper,he wants 100 to bore,i dont know about the crank yet,and if i get the kohler parts locally(which i think i will take up the previous offers here)200.00for a complete kit,no bearings or balance gears but all the other stuff

I can do way better than that on the price of the parts to rebuild that k241, shoot me a list of parts you want.......

[rmaynard 14,933]

I can do way better than that on the price of the parts to rebuild that k241, shoot me a list of parts you want.......

I have purchased K241 rebuild parts from KB9LOR and the price was right. :banghead:

[KB9LOR 4]

I can do way better than that on the price of the parts to rebuild that k241, shoot me a list of parts you want.......

I have purchased K241 rebuild parts from KB9LOR and the price was right.

Thanks for the plug Bob! I will always sell parts at the lowest cost, for the Members here! :thumbs:

[can whlvr 991]

good idea on the rubber mat,i think i will take u up on that kb9lor,i have to take it to the machinest and then i will be in touch.so how do i know if the valves are good and should the seats come out,im hoping not,i really dont want to buy a slide hammer right now,wish i could though,i can use it on my skid steer seals also,and do i need to take the shaft for the compression release and the access plug to knock the pin out?

[KB9LOR 4]

good idea on the rubber mat,i think i will take u up on that kb9lor,i have to take it to the machinest and then i will be in touch.so how do i know if the valves are good and should the seats come out,im hoping not,i really dont want to buy a slide hammer right now,wish i could though,i can use it on my skid steer seals also,and do i need to take the shaft for the compression release and the access plug to knock the pin out?

You know if it was running fine before, I don't know if I would even worry about the valves, but at least check the valve clearance. But I am sure someone here would chime in. When you are ready, shoot me a PM.

[Kelly 1,028]

$100 just to bore the block!!!! try another shop, around here that will bore a V8, you can buy a new short block for about $800.

[dgjks6 6]

Just went through this.

Take the block, picton, crank, and valves to the shop. They should be able to measure everything.

you need to know what sized piston and rod for the crank, and they will be able to tell you if the valve guides are good or not and if they need work, along with the valve seats.

I paid $175

For that I got the cylinder bored .010 over and honed, the crank turned .010 under along with any measurment and work needed on the rod, the valve guides measured, the valve seats done along with lapping the valves (actually only one - the exhaust valve needed to be replaced), and the block generally cleaned.

They charge $90 for the crank and the other $85 was for the rest of the work.

[rmaynard 14,933]

Seems to be a wide range of pricing for machine shop work. Here in the central Maryland area, a price for turning the crank can be anywhere from $65 to $85. Bore and hone $85 to $110. Seat valves, $30.

If I go 40 miles into Pennsylvania, the price to turn a crank is $30, bore, hone, and seat valves $50 to $70.

So, for the price of one bore and hone in MD, I can get it all done in PA.

Even with the price of gas at $3.09/gal., guess where I'm headed?

[can whlvr 991]

i live in a rural area so we only have one machine shop,they have a good rep but yes i think they are costly,i could drive to the city(Toronto)but if i have to go a few times,i wont save anything especially since i drive a 4by 4 truck and the price of gas

[can whlvr 991]

a small up date,i took yhe block to the shop,they will measure everything up and let me know what it needs and it looks like the crank just needs some sandpaper(emerycloth)maybe ill get e break for once,anyway the machinest said she looks good

[dgjks6 6]

Again - speaking from experience, I would let the shop do the emery cloth on the crank. That was what was wrong with mine. It was just aluminum from rod on the crank, but after we used 1000 grit sand paper to take it off we ended up taking a few thousandths here and there off the crank journal and put it out of spec, so then I had to have it machined.

[can whlvr 991]

i think im going to get the crank checked,i got to get myself a micrometer and a bore dial,i forget what its called,would be nice to own