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DMK855

551 ignition switch.

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DMK855

I know the MF keys work in the split key switches, but is there a split key switch that will work. I am in need of one for my 551.

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Kelly

I checked on a switch like that, the part I didn't like, is the hole it fits in is bigger, I didn't want to modifiy my dash tower on my 702, that is a question to ask.

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DMK855

LB, I looked at a couple of those, but can not get a clear picture or specs. on them. Both my 551 and 552 have the same split key switch, and they are both 3 terminal?!?!? I would assume that they are both original switches, however, the wiring diagrams only show 2 wires. I did pull the switch out of my 552 to get the 551 going, but will need a switch to replace it if/when I go back to an original motor.

Kelly, the switches I have are a 5/8 32 mounting. I will see what I can do to find more info on one of the replacement switches. I don't want to enlarge the hole in the dash tower of the 552 or the "plug" on the 551!!

Thanks again guys!!

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DMK855

Pics of the switch......

5k14k6.jpg

29f78gg.jpg

2an3bd.jpg

4vhkl2.jpg

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Coadster32

the wiring diagrams only show 2 wires.

I rebuilt the original switch on my 551. One is a hot leg from the battery. One goes to the starter solonoid in start position. The third leg goes to the points/condenser to ground out when the key is off. The switch grounds out thru the casing/hood mounting. Not sure how you'd shut off the motor, and start it, with only two wires. (unless you're leaving out the battery positive part) :banghead: Hope this helps.

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TT

The 552 models have the "dimmer switch" starter button, so the key switch was only used to ground the ignition.

Personally, I would use a Cole Hersee 95520-B ignition switch. (with the Hencol "snoopy" key)

If you're really that particular about the appearance of the key, have a locksmith make one with the round head. You'll never be able to tell - as long as the key is in the switch.

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1961551

i could not find one when i was in your sutuation. my switch was bad. i took it apart and found the copper start terminal burned and pitted. i replaced the copper terminal with a copper rivet for horse sadles. had to file it a little. braded it in place like the original and works flawlessly. my point is, if your switch is bad, it want hurt to bend the tangs back and inspect the contacts. may be a simple fix like mine. thats would i would do. jimmy

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DMK855

Thanks guys!!

TT, I came up with that switch last night, but was not quite sure if it would work for my setup.... Thanks for confirming it!!

1961551, that is exactly what is wrong with mine!! I may give that a shot!! I

Brain Fart....... I could put the 551 switch in the 552..... Like TT mentioned, it uses the push button start.... The "kill" side of the switch still works!!! Problem semi solved!! The hunt for a good switch will still continue...... Always good to have spares!!

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wh22366

Coadster32, I need your help. I know that this is an old post, but I have 551 ignition switch questions. The only remnant of the starting/charging system on my 551 is the switch. I plan to collect the rest of the missing pieces over time. I managed to uncrimp the switch, clean contacts, dielelctric grease it and put it back together. Since I have nothing attached to the three legs, I'd like to know what they are. In the "off" position (where the key comes out), the unlabeled terminal is connected to terminal M. I assume the unlabeled terminal is case ground (as one switch crimp is connected to it) and the M is the engine magneto/points. When I turn the key "on", I have no internal contacts in the switch (just allowing the mag to fire). The start position connects the M to the S terminals. I assume the S terminal is connected to a starter solenoid. Where does battery voltage connect for start?

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wh22366

No need for a reply, I've decided to keep my 551 manual start.

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jdog_kustoms

i have 2 nos switches for the tecumseh powered early tractors with the split keys

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