Custom Raider

[sgtsampay 117]

Hello all. As you all know, i have 4 tractors now. I have 2 raiders, a work horse and a 211-5.

I plan to make the workhorse my primary machine and will keep it as stock as I can.

I will then sale the 211-5 with its mower deck and snowblower at the June show, along wiht the parts raider.

The other Raider, I will turn into my own custom creation, that will be used as my super plowing/pulling tractor. (Not tractor pulling though..)

I first started out with the basic raider 10. The thing is in not to bad shape but needs some tlc I feel.

I then tried my best to get the reat hitch and slot hitch off but had to cut the pin up to get the hitchs off, as the pin is seized inside the tranny.

I also noticed that the rear hubs are seized onto the tranny as well.

I also need a new drive belt for it, as the old one got cut.

The engine was working due to low compression but I discovered that it needed a new head gasket and to be torqued down.

Once the battery charges, I will see if I can get it to run tonight. I checked the carb and its completely dry but I'm still thinking i may have to clean it out.

I'm not a fan about the old tecs, due to parts and fuzzy carbs but i will still give this one a try before I try a different motor. I want to keep the overall HP down to 10Hp and bellow, since its just moving machine, not a mower or snowblower.

I also took off the mid mount and will be putting on a rear plow mount for the plow and tiller.

My next project is to get some older round hood style fenders and seat pan and put those onto the raider. I will then replace the foot rests with some pegs.

That way it will have that old tractor look.

I then really want to get my hands on a 8 pinon tranny, as the raider has the 10 pinon one and the axles seem to have some play in them when you try to pull it out by hand.

I then want to pain the rims and repaint the tractor like it should. I will them wire up the lights and get those to work.

I then want to make a mod to the beast plate for the tranny to renforce it, so it doesn't crack.

I will be updating this thread with picture as i go along, so enjoy!

[Anglo Traction 761]

Sound good Bobby !. look forward to seeing these changes as you progress.

[rickv1957 74]

Good luck with your project!!!

[NOSpam 0]

Like the Raiders, but a little biased!!! Good luck!!! :banghead:

[sgtsampay 117]

Why thanks guys.

Well, i have already found the 8 pinon tranny. Its from a C-120 and needs a rebuild. Its all apart right now and will have to order a few parts, but I think I can get it to work for not that much money.

Then, i need to make the breast plate mod and then get the engine to run. The problem is, i don't have much faith in the old tec, so I really think I will be in a need of an engine..

Then i will lub up the chassis and put th blade on it for winter use.

[bitten 134]

The axles will have a little play in them, how much im not really sure.

[Coadster32 793]

I checked the carb and its completely dry but I'm still thinking i may have to clean it out.

Definatly. Give the old techy a shot, you might be impressed. :banghead:

[sgtsampay 117]

Thanks all. I will try to see about getting the old tecy a try..

Here is a pic of my new 8 pinon tranny.

[rickv1957 74]

Them ol Tuckys are really a good engine!!

[earlleecliffton 38]

I got a tucky from 71 on my 856,it dont run too bad

[sgtsampay 117]

Ok, so I got a huge awaking with the running of that tec i got.

Afer i put the drain plug back into the tranny and put a new drive belt, I then put the gas on/new battery and hit the start button.

It came to life! I also checked and its getting 90PSI for a compersion test!

After some minor tweaking of the carb jets i got it to run kinda well. The trottle response is very bad but i can deal with that tomorrow when I get the plow on. Also, I'm running it without an airfilter, so I bet that hurting it also...

Here is picture of it and video. Enjoy! Also, why does it stall when I give it trottle to quick?

[Horse'n Around 22]

I really love the Tecky in my Raider 10, it was a HH100 that was partially disassembled but I had a HH120 so I installed it, I guess its a Raider 12 now It always starts immediately and runs like a dream. I'm really impressed with it and I cant wait to drive it for the first time when I get a trans to put in it.

John

[Cody 277]

Nice tractor, and the motor sounds really good. As far as it stalling when you give it throttle to fast i would have to say that it is probably running a tad to lean. next time you have it running try this, pull the choke out a little bit and and give it throttle, if it doesn't stall then you know its to lean and you should back the high speed needle on the carburetor out an 1/8 of a turn at a time until it no longer stalls when the choke is completely open. Im thinking that's going to be the case. Good luck its a neat project and going to be one nice tractor when your done.

[sgtsampay 117]

Cody, you were right, it was running a tad lean. But not for the reason most of us would think.

So, to day i did a good bit of work on the raider.

1. I got the plow bracket on the back and attached the blade. I then had to make a bracket for the angle bar to attach to, as the orginal owner cut the factory one off? Then, since the raider has no lift bar for the blade or a mower deck, I took a piece of 1/4 rod and bent the end on it so I could have the raider lift handle lift it up and down. A side effect of me using a direct bar for the lift mech is that I get down pressure! I also get a very high lift. LOL

2. I filled up the tired with air and then clean the motre off with compressed air. It looks a lot better now but I still want to use the presure washer come spring on it.

3. I then found out that the motor was lacking power because it was running lean as you guys said. Now, it was running lean because it had a carb leak on the back of the carb where the carb and the block meet. The carb has a special manifoiled on it that was being lifted up by the engine shroud, so I bent part of the shroud that the manifoild was getting hung up on and presto, the engine now runs super strong and doesn't stall on me anymore! I also repalced a very hard, dried up vacum line that the fuel pump used, so i bvet that helped also.

So now I had to test my plow set-up of course on the super deep one in we got during he day. I did my drive real quick and thne my nieghbor wanted to do his and part of hr street. So got to running the tractor true its paces for about 30mins. The tractor never missing a beat and shifted great!

So I think this tranny and engine are keepers. I'm still surprised at that old tec. If it keeps up the good work, then it will get rewarded with a new paint job in the spring. LOL.

Now, i did some looking at that 8 pinon tranny and discovered a bad part in it. The diff has one of the bolt holes broken off of it. Also, each axle key weight is different than the other. And one axle has two? So, I think I may abandon the rebuild of that tranny and wait for a better one to turn up.

So, here is what she looks like now.

This week she will be getting chains and some form of counter weight. Then I will put her to work and gather up parts over the winter to make her special come spring. I really would like to wait till spring to take her all part and go from there with her.

[sgtsampay 117]

The axles will have a little play in them, how much im not really sure.

I checked the amount of play in them and its about 1/4-1/2 an in movement side to side. Is that the normal you were talking about?

[sgtsampay 117]

Ok, so i got to use the Raider for the 2 in of snow that fell last night.

Well, on my second driveway, I started to see lots of smoke and sqeuling coming from the drive belt, so i shut down the machine and found that drive belt got eaten up, cause it was rubbing against the belt guard and then the clutch pedal rod's end hole broke, so now i can't engaded or disengade the clutch anymore. Ugg. So, I have to now make a new metal bracket to replace the part that broke and then figure out why the belt started to rub on the belt gaurd.

I'm thinking i got to loose of a belt? I got the standard drive belt for the C-120 series, was that the wrong one?

I also really want some chains at least and then some weight as the raider seems to keep loosing traction.

Now, the good news is the engine runs great! And the Tranny shifts great also.

[Anglo Traction 761]

Hi Bobby, the Belt for your Raider(s) should be #7473, assuming they gave you the right one?. May have jammed or distorted the Belt Guard and caused the Rub. C-120 (Manual) Belt is the same #. Autos are a different #.

Hope your fix is easily sorted.

[sgtsampay 117]

Anglo thx. How long is that belt? I'm going to try and get a gates belt for today to get the raider back on her feet.

Also, will take pictures of the broken peice when I get hoem to work on it. I think I can fix it..

[TT-(Moderator) 1,162]

Save this in your "favorites" :

http://www.gates.com/part_interchange/inde...ocation_id=3286

[Raider 2]

I also really want some chains at least and then some weight as the raider seems to keep loosing traction.

I would shop for weight first then chains if needed.

[sgtsampay 117]

Update:

Ok, so I fixed everything tonight but in the process I found why the belt keeps coming off. Its missing the figure peice that goes above the idler pulley. So, whne you press the clutch in, it lets the belt jump off.

So, what is it supposed to look like so I can make a new one, as the old one seemed to have broken off.

Also, I moved the soliniod off the belt guard and put it on its own littlle bracket:

Here is how the side looks:

Now, here is the other piece that broke. I drilled the brake lever hole bigger and then stuck the clutch rod into it. I also made the spring a new hole and put that in. The clutch is real tight now but haviign no brakes kinda sucks. I will have to fix that..

[Anglo Traction 761]

Wow Bobby, and I thought my C-120 had a hard life !. The dimensions of the Belt Pulley Guide are tricky to quote as there are a few critical bends in it. That guide also acts as a Belt brake and works in conjunction with the one inside the Belt Guard.... If noone else is able to help, I will get you a photo and measurements, a.s.a.p. I'll add one of the Rod/Brake/Trunnion and Spring (L/H side) as well.

Just in case your Non Runner Raider is also missing these parts.

[Anglo Traction 761]

Hi Bobby,

Not sure if you've sorted the Missing Clutch Belt Brake Plate. I have produced the Dimensions of the Plate for you, along with pics of what it looks like.

Ignore the Brass Bolt. I used it for measurements.

The Angle of the plate position in relation to the Pivot Rod can be achieved if the Plate is made to these dimensions first.

You can see that the R/h bottom corner of the Plate intersects with the Pivot Rod edge as viewed in the Photo.

The plate can be bolted to the Rod and then welded in the correct position.

The plate thickness is 1/16"

I see you also have a '68' Raider that you may be able to refer to as well.

(don't pay attention to condition of mine, it's yet to dealt with)

Hope this helps.

Regards

[sgtsampay 117]

Thanks sir!. I have acctually not done anything with the Raider's clutch issue yet, since I had to fix a wire gremlin yesterday on the Gt and the day before that I spent making two customer hitches for the Raider. (Picture later, don't worry.)

Thanks for the pictures, as I'm sure that will help alot when I go to continue work tonight.

I would use the part from the other raider, but the can't get the darn rod/plate off the machine. Its seized on...

I also need to make sure the side with the belt is on, that I'm not missing anything. I think I'm missing a figure or to to keep the belt from coming off, but I'm not sure. Now with your pictures, i should be able to do this!

Lastly, for the mean time, I'm just using the brake rod hole for the pedal clutch and I'm running with no brakes. I hate this set-up and hopefully with your help, I can put it back correctly. Thanks!

Also, the 68 raider is a parts tractor now and its in the snowbank, so getting anything from it is hard. Thanks again for your help. I'm sure I will need more pcitures later. :banghead:

[Anglo Traction 761]

I also need to make sure the side with the belt is on, that I'm not missing anything. I think I'm missing a figure or to to keep the belt from coming off, but I'm not sure. Now with your pictures, i should be able to do this!

With fitting this Plate on the Idler Pulley Rod, you will not be missing anything else on the Belt Side (see piccy). This plate will prevent the Belt jumping off. Declutching will also perform correctly.

I'll add a pic of the Brake side Linkage for you later.