Cold weather & dead batteries

[Dresden Guy 24]

I have to store my WH's outside with only covers over them and want to know how to be sure my battey will start my tractor in really cold weather.

I read the super article ("Locating Parasitic Battery Drain, SOI_University Series") by S-O-I ~surprise! surprise!~ which got me to thinking: Until I have time to out ferret out the parasites draining my battery(ies), is there a way to disconnect/connect my battery? Could there be a work-around? So, I Googled the web and found disconnect switches for batteries.

Battery Terminal Quick Disconnect

Question: Could these disconnects help to keep the battery from getting drained, at least until I can sleuth out my electrical system. Remember, I have to store my tractors outside and I do buy batteries with a higher CCAs, e.g. - 290 or 330.

Question: Would I be better in putting a disconnect on both terminals and just keep the batteries indoors until needed? It seems like the quick disconnects would make the hookup much easier, especially when it's snowing, -5 deg F and wind blowing 20 mph.

I am tired of buying new batteries and/or finding dead batteries when I need the Horses to get to work. I plow all the sidewalks in our village (gratis) and several senior citizens have come to depend on the snow being removal - plus I get great seat time!!

[Operator 7]

The disconnects are a switch you can put "inline", you only need one. You could keep the trickle charger on too. Plus there is a warming pad you can get to keep battery nice and toasty, a little spendy but worth it. I have one on my skidsteer and works great.

Cheapest? Pull battery and keep inside.

Randy

[Save Old Iron 1,573]

Steve,

If you have access to household AC power, keeping the battery "topped off" is the way to go.

I use

http://www.harborfreight.com/automatic-bat...rger-42292.html

to keep the batteries fully charged.

Don't underestimate the importance of keeping the batteries topped off. If you consistently let your batteries stay 90 % charged, the 10% space left uncharged on the lead plates will form a sulfur coating which - for all practical purpose - you will never recover. So take a 90% capacity battery, leave it discharged 10% for extended periods and then you have a battery that is 20% sulphated (dead) and soon enough, you have no reserve capacity to start the tractor in cold or warm weather.

These small chargers are rated about 1 amp and instead of applying a 14.5 volt charge to the system, they apply only a 13.2 volt charge. This can be left on the tractor indefinitely without fear of overcharging.

Remember, a discharged battery will freeze at a higher temperature than a fully charged battery.

If you try to charge a frozen battery too quickly - it can and most likely will explode !

[COMMANDO1 23]

I use trickle chargers on everything, wh and cycle. i dont own a habor freight 1 yet. mine cost $49.00 each. i will be going to habor freight this weekend to get a back up.

[Dresden Guy 24]

Steve,

If you have access to household AC power, keeping the battery "topped off" is the way to go.

Just a thought - I have used a heat bar on my grand piano to keep it dry.

http://www.harborfreight.com/automatic-bat...rger-42292.html]=http://www.harborfreight.com/automatic-battery-float-charger-42292.html]http://www.harborfreight.com/automatic-bat...rger-42292.html

Don't underestimate the importance of keeping the batteries topped off. If you consistently let your batteries stay 90 % charged, the 10% space left uncharged on the lead plates will form a sulfur coating which - for all practical purpose - you will never recover. So take a 90% capacity battery, leave it discharged 10% for extended periods and then you have a battery that is 20% sulphated (dead) and soon enough, you have no reserve capacity to start the tractor in cold or warm weather.

These small chargers are rated about 1 amp and instead of applying a 14.5 volt charge to the system, they apply only a 13.2 volt charge. This can be left on the tractor indefinitely without fear of overcharging.

Remember, a discharged battery will freeze at a higher temperature than a fully charged battery.

If you try to charge a frozen battery too quickly - it can and most likely will explode !

S-O-I,

Exactly how should I wire up three (3) batteries, i.e. - series, parallel, bring inside, or outside on tractor? Sorry to be so dense!!

Question: In my owner's manual for the C-160 and B-80, it reminds me NOT to do a "Jump Start" on the battery without disconnecting the rectifier. I'm sure trickle charging is not the same as jump starting, but just want to check.

Note: There is a cheap device used to keep pianos free of dampness. The company is "DAMPP-CHASER" of Hendersonville, NC. A 48" heat bar, 35W, is $43.99. The website:

Heat Bar / Dehumidifier for keeping Tractor Battery(ies) warm

I guess I will keep each battery(ies) warm (maybe a small 25W oven bulb close to the battery) and trickle charge ("top off") each battery all the time. Correct?

Thanks to all

[theoldwizard1 2]

Question: Would I be better in putting a disconnect on both terminals and just keep the batteries indoors until needed? It seems like the quick disconnects would make the hookup much easier, especially when it's snowing, -5 deg F and wind blowing 20 mph.

I believe this is the best solution.

The best quick disconnects are called Anderson Power Pole. You might get by with 75 amp rated contacts (up to 6 gauge wire) but 120 would be better (up 1/0 gauge wire). The individual plastic housings can be "paired" in such away that they can not be inserted incorrectly. eBay reference

The problem is find a set of (hydraulic?) crimps for those big boys ! Or perhaps one of these Hammer Crimp Tool (Looks like a good birthday present !) YouTube How To

If you have access to household AC power, keeping the battery "topped off" is the way to go.

Also an excellent alternative. I prefer "the high price spread" (an American joke) Battery Tender Jr

[Save Old Iron 1,573]

Exactly how should I wire up three (3) batteries, i.e. - series, parallel, bring inside, or outside on tractor?

The HF float chargers I linked to are quite weather proof. The charger can be mounted to the frame of the tractor and kept on board the tractor if needed.

If you have 3 batteries needing to be maintained, you will need three separate float chargers. The chargers are frequently on sale for less then $5.00. Add the 20% coupon to the mix, the cost is about $4.00 each!.

No parallel, no series, just one float charger per battery.

In my owner's manual for the C-160 and B-80, it reminds me NOT to do a "Jump Start" on the battery without disconnecting the rectifier. I'm sure trickle charging is not the same as jump starting, but just want to check.

I'm not sure anyone (including myself) abides by that suggestion. Technically, there is sound reasoning behind the suggestion. CONTACT BOUNCE.

Look at the picture in the following link

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Switch_bounce.JPG

this voltage trace shows what happens in a time frame of 1/1000th of a second after a switch contact is closed. This includes flipping a light switch or connecting a "live" battery charger cable to a battery. Power does not go cleanly from 0 volts to 12 volts in an instant. There are many on / off cycles within the simple act of connecting the battery cable to the battery . So in essence, your are "banging" the battery and regulator with 10's even 100's of on off cycles before you get a clean contact with the battery terminal.

The regulator assembly contains electronic components the same as your home stereo. Would you think of turning your TV or stereo on and off a hundred times before finally leaving "on"? Probably not. Same holds true with the designers of the regulators in WH tractors. Keep the warranty claims as low as possible.

The best way to connect a charger is to power off the charger, connect the charger leads to the battery and then plug the charger into the AC outlet. A simple act which will remove almost all possibility of charger induced regulator damage.

I guess I will keep each battery(ies) warm (maybe a small 25W oven bulb close to the battery) and trickle charge ("top off") each battery all the time. Correct?

The act of current flowing through the battery with the float charger will keep the battery slightly warmer than usual. The float charger I have linked to will not charge a battery but will keep it charged.

I have no experience with using a light bulbs or heat sticks to keep batteries warm. To me, a 25 - 35 watt heater placed next to a battery in windy 0 degree weather is probably a waste of watts and money.

I agree with Operator in using a heating "pad" under the battery if you are in critical, must start type of scenario.

I still think my "Pies for Plowing" philosophy is the best. I stay in the house, you plow my driveway and my wife bakes you a pie. Laugh if you will, but a line forms near my house when it snows. It gets my driveway done in all but the worst of storms. If it all gets too wild, the JD 855 bucket loader blows some black smoke from the stack and the problems all disappear.

[jachady 130]

I use weatherproof solar chargers as I don't have power in my shed. I have a spot to hang them in a south facing window if I can park inside. Or I just leave them sitting on the hood if they are outside. They come with a quick disconnect. I got mine from Harbor Freight as well.

[jimbotelho 1]

I have been using trickle chargers for many years and even if the battery is weak I never had a problem only my opinion JimBo :banghead:

[theoldwizard1 2]

S-O-I,

Exactly how should I wire up three (3) batteries, i.e. - series, parallel, bring inside, or outside on tractor? Sorry to be so dense!!

The bad news is, it you want to "do it right" you will need 3 chargers, or one charger that has 3 separate outputs (check at marine supply houses).

The reason you need 3 chargers (or a charge with 3 outputs) is because good chargers actually "sense" the level of charge in the battery. If you tried charging all 3 by hooking them up in parallel, one bad battery might be "hidden" by the other 2 good ones or vice versa.

The Battery Tender Jr. I mentioned earlier comes with a short lead and quick disconnect. Buy 2 extra sets of leads/quick disconnects and you can rotate one charger between 3 batteries every couple days to a week.

Question: In my owner's manual for the C-160 and B-80, it reminds me NOT to do a "Jump Start" on the battery without disconnecting the rectifier. I'm sure trickle charging is not the same as jump starting, but just want to check.

Jump starting from another battery is probably okay. High current chargers/auxiliary-jump-starts actually supply higher "voltage" to push the current.

I guess I will keep each battery(ies) warm (maybe a small 25W oven bulb close to the battery) and trickle charge ("top off") each battery all the time.

If you are using a good trickle charger, you won't need the light bulb !

[TT-(Moderator) 1,169]

So in essence, your are "banging" the battery and regulator with 10's even 100's of on off cycles before you get a clean contact with the battery terminal.

This doesn't apply when the regulator to battery connection exists only when the key switch is in the ON position, though.

Make sure that the ignition switch is in the OFF position before connecting the jumper cables and the regulator should be fine.

Sound about right, Chuck? :banghead:

[theoldwizard1 2]

I use weatherproof solar chargers as I don't have power in my shed. I have a spot to hang them in a south facing window if I can park inside. I got mine from Harbor Freight as well.

That what my brother-in-law uses at his "camp" "up north". He uses deep cycle marine batteries to power almost everything. He only uses a generator when he is building and using power tools.

[theoldwizard1 2]

I still think my "Pies for Plowing" philosophy is the best. I stay in the house, you plow my driveway and my wife bakes you a pie.

I am partial to dutch apple and a scoop of vanilla ice cream !

[Save Old Iron 1,573]

So in essence, your are "banging" the battery and regulator with 10's even 100's of on off cycles before you get a clean contact with the battery terminal.

This doesn't apply when the regulator to battery connection exists only when the key switch is in the ON position, though.

Make sure that the ignition switch is in the OFF position before connecting the jumper cables and the regulator should be fine.

Sound about right, Chuck?

Agreed,

If you actually remember to turn the switch off. How many times have I walked back to a tractor with the key left in the RUN position after it failed to start or crank.

My best advice is

Don't get old...... and the same for your battery if you have to trust it to take care of a business.

It does make you wonder what the folks @ were thinking when they wrote that caution :thumbs:

[theoldwizard1 2]

Don't get old.

But I don't like the alternative.

[Save Old Iron 1,573]

I still think my "Pies for Plowing" philosophy is the best. I stay in the house, you plow my driveway and my wife bakes you a pie.

I am partial to dutch apple and a scoop of vanilla ice cream !

it works quickly and it works well !

next up on the lazy list is the word "grandson"