Hi guys, newb with a couple of questions

[n2ojunkie 0]

Hi guys, I've been on here a couple of days just researching but I couldn't find what I need, maybe you can help me.

I have two questions one is about a 1257 that has stopped moving. Its old and used a lot but it still ran great so we used it for our cabin. I was mowing and stoped to turn around and that was it it never moved under its own power sense. The belt is fine, The pulley on the trans spins the shaft. I jacked it up and if I spin one tire the other spins the opposite, I take that to be good. If I spin the pulley with the tires in the air it wants to turn the tires but just cant do it. I'm thinking a shear pin but would anybody like to help me out and tell me which one and what they think it should cost to fix it?

The other question is on a 68 reo lawnskiff. This has been sitting in a shed for over 20 years and still looks good. The ign. sw. was bad and replaced it with a universal one. There was only three wires going to it, bat, starter, and what? I don't know where to put it. I don't have spark right now and I'm wondering if that is the problem. We tried to put it to positive ( bad mistake) it burnt the points right away. I changed those and I still don't have spark. What could it be? coil? ign sw? I know it ran when we put it away but its not right now.

Hey I know I'm new here and started out with a couple of questions and a long post, I'm sorry but I cant figure this out. I've rebuilt cars and trucks and the simplest ones get me, lol.

James

[n2ojunkie 0]

Hi guys Did I post this in the wrong place or are they to old to even mess with? I don't want to spend too much money on the reo but after seeing how most of you guys restore your older one's I'm thinking about taking it apart when I have it down and cleaning and repainting it.

[kj4kicks 154]

On the 1257, make sure the axle isn't spinning inside of the hub. They sometimes shear off the key.

Sorry, can't help you on the reo.

[TT-(Moderator) 1,162]

The Tecumsehs on the REO's have a magneto igniton. The ignition switch has 3 terminals: "S", "B", and "M". The wire from the "M" terminal goes to the ignition coil to ground it when the key is off. (grounds through the switch body)

If you applied 12VDC to the wire to the coil, the coil is probably fried. Try another condenser first though, and see what happens. :whistle:

[n2ojunkie 0]

Thanks I did put power to the red wire, but only after it wasn't getting spark with it not connected. I changed out the points and condenser and still nothing. The coil is no longer available but they said they can get me a newer one that eliminates the points and condenser? The part number they gave me was 30560a. They told me $39. If it works its still pretty cheap to get this running. I had to clean out the carb a new ign sw. but I'm going to put a starter sylnoid in so all the amps are not going through the cheap switch, and maybe a toggle on the red wire to shut it off with.

Thanks for the help.

James

[TT-(Moderator) 1,162]

I don't think there's a newer coil that can replace the old one.

The newer "breakerless" coils mount on the outside of the flywheel (like a Briggs) and require a different flywheel. You'd also lose the stator that recharges the battery.

Maybe you could find the armature (coil) from an older snowblower, rototiller, etc. and install it on your bracket.

You're right about the ignition switch too.....

If it's the new style with 5 small terminals, you'll have to use a separate relay. (solenoid)

If you get the correct one for magneto ignition, you won't need the toggle switch.

[n2ojunkie 0]

I looked up the part # and it just looks like a coil with the plug wire? It doesn't look anything like what I have under the flywheel right now. I have a lot of older lawnmowers that I was going to get rid of but their all b/s engines. Anyway to check the coil? resistance maybe? Open=bad 0 ohms = bad but what should it read if its good? I'll look around for a older engine to use for parts if not maybe use one of the b/s engines on it and make it a pull start only.

Also the starter is always engaged on the flywheel, is this right? I thought maybe that sense it was engaged all the time it could be a starter/gen like on the kohler's but wasn't sure. Thanks again.

[TT-(Moderator) 1,162]

I can only guess and say that there should be continuity between the two small wires. If it's open, then it's burnt.

Here's what yours probably looks like:

And one without the charging coils (coil partially removed):

And the actual coil itself (Tec # 30546)

If you unhook the small "bail" from the coil, it should slide off the bracket.

TEW lists them at $16.74 and I'm sure you can also find them elsewhere.

For you Kohler magneto guys.... this is the same coil as 47 755 20-S, which fits most of the K91 - K361 engines, but Kohler's list price is around $65.00 ! :WRS:

[n2ojunkie 0]

Ok I never tore it down like that, but if I just need to replace the coil could I try one of the ones off a b/s to see if it would work? or wouldnt it even fit on? I thought I would have to replace everything under the flywheel. Everything is at my brothers house right now, so my yard is not so full of $*** lol. I have some I could try and they would be free. :whistle:

[TT-(Moderator) 1,162]

Nope..... A B&S coil wont work.