6hp Techy....

[Shuboxlover 474]

I think I'm going to rebuild the carb on my 6hp Techy...

Any tips or secrets I need to know about, this will be my first dabbling in a the world of Tecumseh

Does anyone have a part number for a carb kit.

Motor is a M70

Thanks

[wheel horse man 56]

good luck

[TT-(Moderator) 1,127]

You might want to check that number again. It's probably an H70, but that would make it 7hp, not 6.

Once you have the correct number(s), you can look it up at various internet sites (like PartsTree) just like you can for parts.

Removing all welch plugs and "cooking them out" in GOOD (meaning: not environmentally safe) carb cleaner is the only way to go on those carbs. If you don't get cleaner through every passage, you're wasting your time and money. I usually blow them out with compressed air and then soak them in lacquer thinner for another day or two after the carb cleaner bath.

Watch out for the float needle seat too - they are easy to lose and they need to be installed right-side-up.

There's also two different kits for the same carbs (at least there used to be) - dependent on whether the engine has a fuel pump or is gravity-fed. If that's still the case, make sure you get the right kit.

Last, but not least, I'll second the "good luck". :ychain:

[camaross 0]

i just rebuilt a tech carb with some help from the guys here , it wasn't bad at all.

a clean work area with lots of lots of light will help. i also set down a piece of cardboard to work on so i could write notes or make drawings for re-assembly.

i ended up soaking the carb in carb cleaner ( the gallon pail with the basket) overnite and it came out like new. for the float valve seat a little motor oil in the hole and a allen wrench to slide it into place without it twisting out of place

i ordered my kit through pats small engines 8 bucks , got it in 3 days

there was also a link that MIKESRJ had posted in my carb thread a few weeks back that had great illustrations and instructions

[Shuboxlover 474]

You might want to check that number again. It's probably an H70, but that would make it 7hp, not 6.

Yep...your are correct sir....it IS an H70...

so the motor must have been changed sometime in it's life??? :ychain:

[MikesRJ 552]

The manuals wouldn't hurt either:

http://www.mywheelhorse.com/graphics/file/...vice-Manual.pdf

http://www.mywheelhorse.com/graphics/file/...ecumseh_BSI.pdf

[DMK855 15]

I don't know the condition of yours, but the last one I rebuilt ended up getting replaced with a new one. It had corrosion all through the carb and the throttle shaft was really worn. I soaked it, blew it out, etc., etc., and still could not get it 100% right. Like TT stated, you will need to completely tear it apart and make sure it is spotless inside!!

[mr.pipes 4]

I think Techy's are made out to be worse than they are. I am not a small engine expert or anywhere close to becoming one.But I rebuilt two over the weekend and both fired first pull. The first would start and die in a few seconds, I think the float was hanging up. Second wouldn't even pop.

Get the kit and replace every part and gaskets. Remove the welch plugs and clean the holes with a needle. I soak mine in a carb cleaner bucket for a half an hour or so, rinse with hot water and blow out with compressed air. I also replace the fuel line and flush the tank so I don't risk anything getting into my clean carb.

There is tons of info online with step by step directions. Check out outdoorpowerinfo.com there is also a guy on youtube called donyboy73 that has lots of helpful small engine repair vids. If you have throttle or choke shaft slop you may be better off with a new carb. You can get an aftermarket one delivered for less than $50. Good luck, You can do it!

[Shuboxlover 474]

Thanks guys

I took it apart last night, it was REALLY dirty, but cleaned up pretty good. I still need to get the welch plugs out....HOW DO YOU DO THAT.....then....HOW DO YOU PUT THEM BACK IN????

What are they even used for??? :D

[TT-(Moderator) 1,127]

In this case, the welch plugs are used to block the holes left after the machining processes.

Removal is as simple as either carefully tapping inward on the center of the plug with a small punch or drift until the welch plug "shrinks" and loosens, or you can punch or drill a small hole in the center and use a pick or awl to pry or pop the plug free.

They are a convex disc of metal and expand against the wall of the hole when the center is tapped inward, which is what holds them in place. To install a new plug, clean the area where the plug seats, install the plug with the raised side sticking outward, and use a blunt object / hammer to bump the center of the plug inward. Don't get carried away though - since going "over center" will actually loosen the plug again.

[Shuboxlover 474]

So when I install then, I want the convex (hump) outward?

Will it still be convex when driven in properly, or will it then become concave,....i hope this question makes sense :ychain:

[TT-(Moderator) 1,127]

The hump needs to face outward when installing.

The welch plug will essentially look flat when properly installed.

Look at the current plug(s) and you'll see.

Once installed, you can use clear (or colored ) nail polish to seal them - if you want.

[Shuboxlover 474]

Once installed, you can use clear (or colored ) nail polish to seal them - if you want.

wonder what the wife will say about that

Thanks TT :D

[wh79d160 52]

Say about what? Just make sure you clean the grease & fuel smell off the bottles before you put them back. Or, just blame the kids. :D