520h Eaton hydro, cold problem

[rrbattani 0]

I just recently acquired a '90 520h. When I bought it, last week, the hydro was very strong and responsive, and the lift worked great. I got it home, and on a cold start, (below 40 degrees) the lift doesnt want to operate, and the tractor moves very slugishly. Once it has moved 50 feet, the hydraulics work just as they should, and the tractor moves foreward, and reverse just as it should, and is very strong.

This is puzzling to me, as it is just the opposite as most failing hydro's, that work good cold, and fail as the get hotter.

Does anyone have any suggestions where to start looking for the cause?

Fluid and filter were changed while I was picking it up, and it was a toro filter. Could it maybe an oil viscosity issue? I do not know what of oil they used when it was serviced.

[rmaynard 14,926]

Toro recommends 10W30 or 10W40. Could be that it was serviced with the wrong fluid.

Just a guess on my part since I don't have any hydro experience.

Bob

[Sparky-(Admin) 19,639]

The hydro tractors are supposed to be allowed to "warm up" for a few minutes before using them. My 416-H needs a few minutes in the winter before it will operate as it should.

Your 520 is fine.

Mike.........

[Kelly 1,028]

All 3 of my 520's need a few min. to warm up, it's in my opinion best to let them warm up, before working them, and it gives the engine time to warm up, Onans are not cheap to repair, so a few min. warming up might save a few dollars down the road.

[Operator 7]

I kind of figure it is a good idea to warm them all up a little. I know it takes me a little to get going in the morning.

Randy

[MalMac 1,328]

I have a 90 520h and like everybody else said it has to warm up. Mine won't even move or the hydraulics function for 10min. after startup even longer in sub zero wheather. you can cause alot of damage forcing the issue.

[WheelHorse_of_course 99]

Read your manual.

It probably says that you MUST let it warm up (e.g. with hydro engaged/parking brake off) or damage may occur.

So, as other have said, no bad news here!

:ychain:

[HorseFixer 2,012]

Try Switching to Synthetics

Dino oil freezes solid at 50 deg below zero. Now yes I realize we don't get 50 deg below zero but when it is say 0 deg oil flows like Tar leaving your engine or in this case transmission starving for oil until it warms up, and thats where the most wear comes from over the life of an engine. At a -50 AMSOIL still pours. Don't be confused with viscosity, & pour point. You cant expect sludge that is pumped from the ground then refined to match the lubrication abilities of Synthetic oils that are designed for a specific purpose. Yes it costs more...... Or does it? if your mechanical equipment gets lubrication when it is suppose to the moment it is turned on it only makes sense that less wear will accure over the lifetime of the equipment.

And oh by the way.... Last year was the first year that I owned a Hydro (Snow Chucker) and all the lubricants were change to synthetics. I left the machine outside at below zero one night last year, next morning came out started it up and within 15 seconds moved the tractor with no ill effects! Do yourself a favor and switch AMSOIL I'm sure there is a dealer in your area if not you can get it off my website either way I will help ya. Many people on here contact me and I spend time answering their questions wether they buy it from me or elsewhere all that matters to me is that guys are protecting their equipment!

~Duke

AMSOIL Oil Comparisons

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,516]

There is a 1996 product service bulletin on 1988-1994, and part of 1995 Eaton 1100 cold loss of prime.

It is in

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/wheelhorsetractormanuals8/

and named

Toro91-presGT #GT19 Eaton 11 Transmission Cold prime loss

Garry

[pfrederi 17,169]

From the Service Bulletin

A loss of prime condition is indicated when the tractor fails to

move in forward or reverse, after a cold start-up. This should not be confused with the

operation of the hydraulic lift system, which typically takes several minutes to begin

operating in cold weather.

My 418A refuses to pick up her snowblower for awhile after start up. Makes it hard to get her out of the shop to warm up. I may have to but it on a 8 speed tractor next year...

[wheelhorse656 20]

all the hydros i have ever used need a few mins to warm up in the winter.

[can whlvr 991]

i do let my 1975 c160 warm up,good for the seals,but i live in ontario and it gets cold up here,i left it uoyside one night and the temp was -28celcius,dam cold,the tractor will move instantly and the lift works immediatly also,i dont do this often but it amazes me how fast this machine works in the cold,its a sundstrand not an eaton.

[Forest Road 594]

Do you get in your car on the coldest of days start it up and take off immediately? Probably not. Same goes for for your labor saving WH. Give it a bit to warm up. You'll be glad you did.

[WheelHorse_of_course 99]

i do let my 1975 c160 warm up,good for the seals,but i live in ontario and it gets cold up here,i left it uoyside one night and the temp was -28celcius,dam cold,the tractor will move instantly and the lift works immediatly also,i dont do this often but it amazes me how fast this machine works in the cold,its a sundstrand not an eaton.

Does it have Dextron or 30 weight in the trans?

My previous research seems to show that prior to the changeover to 30W the manuals did not have the advice to warm up the trans before using.

:ychain:

[Brandonsj04 0]

I also have the 520h and most if not all days you will have you will have to wait for the hydro system to warm up. Other times it works right out of the gun for no ryhme nor reason. This also happens in the fall as well with temps around 40-45. Good luck, you'll love the tractor :ychain:

[kadetklapp 1]

Old thread, I know, but has anyone tried putting a magnet mount "block heater" on the hydro overnight before say getting up in the morning to plow? I think I may do this to save wear on my tractor this season.

[illinilefttackle 399]

Old thread, I know, but has anyone tried putting a magnet mount "block heater" on the hydro overnight before say getting up in the morning to plow? I think I may do this to save wear on my tractor this season.

I leave a small electric heater on in the garage on the floor directed at the rear of the Tractor ( C-125A ) -even just on the low setting, the tractor warms up a lot quicker on cold morning plows- but I still warm it up at least 3-4 min with pump engaged-Thanks-Al

[shorts 182]

synthetic oil is a good thing for hydrostatic transmissions, it keeps them lubricated when cold and flows instantly on startup, but they still need to warm up in cold weather, a good rule of thumb is if the engine still needs the choke and or high idle to run right it's to cold to work the tractor

[Hydro 130]

In the manual I had for my 416H it definately warned that damage could be caused to the unit if you did not let the hydro warm up. I do not know what damage that could be but it was there in black and white. Since the valve guides went I acquired a JD 260. The manual says nothing about winter temps. At this point I don't know if the warm up is unique to the W/H or just that the JD design is not so critical. :woohoo:

[can whlvr 991]

any hydro tractor,skidsteer,backhoe etc,should have a warm up period,in winter i run my skid steer for 5 min before i move it

[Kevin Bowley 130]

Last year I decided I was going to standardize my oils as I have to many tractors. After a ton of research I settled on Mobile One 0w40. I use it in all the trannies, Hydros and engines. While Amsoil is an outstanding product, they did not have a product as diverse as the Mobile One 0w40. It meets/exceeds VW 502/505 spec'd as well as nearly every other OEM cert. It is the finest product they make save the VW 507 spec'd EST. The VW 507 is considered the toughest requirements out there but that oil is foolish money and very hard to acquire. Currently only the VW dealers and some online stores carry it for the new direct injected TDI engine.

The Mobil product has been epic in every way. I have done several oil analysis done after 40 hours in splashed lubed engines as well as sunstrands and a couple of Vanguards and it does not shear down . It stays in grade with almost nil wear and they recommend extending to 60 hrs, which I dont feel comfortable enough yet. Just pushing from 25 to 40 hrs was enough for me. The engine turns over as if it were 80 degrees when the temps are very cold and the hydros are silent and strong. Great product and I highly recommend giving it a try.

If you wish to become very educated about lubrication I suggest www.bobistheoilguy.com its very interesting reading and they have a small engine form that is extremely active.

Kevin.

[ericj 1,576]

i have several tractors with the Eaton 11 trans. most move almost immediately unless real cold. but i have a 93 520-H that unless it is above 65 degrees or so won't move for several minutes. The deck will actually drop if deck is up and you hit the lift handle even to the up position. and the other odd thing about this particular tractor is that it pushes very very easily with out the usual tic tic noise you get when the tractor is hand pushed. I've got oil and a Toro filter to change the rear oil, but i am thinking about adding kero. or something to clean and possible degunk the trans. although the oil in it look good. I've considered a trans swap, but have always been told the 520 trans are almost bullet proof. Hate to spend the money on the oil change and then have to tear it apart to repair or replace. this tractor take so much longer to move than my other tractors.

[CRE1992 135]

DO NOT RUN KEROSENE IN THAT TRANS! you may ruin the pump!

[can whlvr 991]

i agree,if it works like the sundstrand tha pump uses the same fluid as the rear end which means you will be running kerosene in the pump which i would NOT do if i were you