PTO Clutches

[squonk 43,004]

Went to change the main drive belt on my c-160. I've been getting sparks and grinding on the PTO pin. Slid off the pulley and parts fell out of it. The outer bearing is rough. there was a snap ring and needle bearing laying inside the pulley. The little shaft that sticks out of the pulley is all beat up and there seems to be a spring missing. I think it got ground up. To top it off the disc is to the rivets and is cracked. It looks like I need to look for a used clutch. I see different ones on E-bay. How do I know if they would fit? :ychain:

[WheelHorse_of_course 99]

To begin with the diameter of the clutch comes in at least 2 sizes.

I *think* it changed in 1974.

I have no idea if it changed again later.

So there is a bit of information, but I am sure others will give you more...

Good luck. :ychain:

[dgjks6 6]

I don't know about pre-73 or not, but there are two sizes. 1 inch and 1 11/8.

The 8 hp kohlers were 1 inch, and the rest of the kohlers are 1 1/8.

I am not sure about the briggs or Onans.

There are complete PTO clutch sets on ebay from time to time or ask here in the wanted section.

[squonk 43,004]

According to Parts Tree, the only clutches that use the spring,thrust washer and thrust bearing on the end of the crank are the c-120's and 160's. :ychain:

[squonk 43,004]

Here's a pic of the offending parts:

[dgjks6 6]

Not sure about the spring, they are not on every model, but I did do some parts comparison and all of the parts are the same except the spring from 73 until at least 85. I think any PTO set up post 73 from a 10h.p. plus tractor will work.

Keep your eyes open and be patient and you should be able to get all the pieces under $30.

I am not sure if you can just leave the whole spring part out.

[rmaynard 16,078]

1976 and 1977 B & C series all used the same parts in the PTO. But it you take a look at the ones on eBay and see what year and model they are from, you can cross reference them on http://www.smallenginepartswarehouse.com.

Should give you all the info you need to know. Many other models used the same parts. You can even eliminate the stud that screws into the end of the crankshaft and replace the parts as described in this quote from "TT". I was trying to get the stud out of the end of the crankshaft and he sent the following:

Cut it off flush with the end of the crankshaft and throw the piece in the trash. Get a new stub shaft (# 102872) and two new snap rings (# 32120-72) and reassemble per the mid 80's 300 series tractors style (LINK) and it will work better than it ever did.

Bob

[squonk 43,004]

I was wondering if I could leave that spring out. The only thing I see that it does is maybe push the pulley away from the clutch disc when disengaging.

[Don1977 604]

You can't get the right spring from Toro. If it's adjusted right it will move away from the

clutch disk anyway. The only thing it does is push the pulley in to the brake pad and makes the pulley stop turning sooner.