Stigian 1,234 #1 Posted May 2, 2008 To make a bit of space in my workshack ive been pulling the "Raider from the woods" apart to make it easier to store away After lots of WD40, spanner work, and lying on a rust coated floor ive got most of it apart and stacked away Most parts came off with a bit of spanner pressure, some parts however are being more of a pain. Despite all the wheel bolts coming out easily, one wheel is refusing to part company with the hub. WD40 and lots of careful hammer work have so far failed to part them Getting that nice big pin out thats holding the clevis hitch onto the trans is going to be fun Id better buy some big heavy duty drill bits Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
perry 82 #2 Posted May 2, 2008 use PB blaster , heat, and lots of patience on the rear hitch. let it soak for about a week or more. man them pins are buggers arent they ?........ Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CasualObserver 3,411 #3 Posted May 2, 2008 Perry's right on.... PB Blaster or Kroil if you have any. Spray and give it a little tap about twice a day. Eventually it will break free. When you tap on it, be sure to use a softer metal or hardwood to tap with, because the end of that pin will mushroom very easily and then you'll really need the Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
linen beige 15 #4 Posted May 2, 2008 Along the lines of Ja-tee's advice, WD-40 was not designed to be used as a lubricant. It's name comes from it's development as a formula for moisture displacement, Water Displacement formula Forty (Final Jeopardy question), but I digress... I can recall watching an uncle trying for a near hour to remove a similar pin on a full size tractor when I was a kid. turned out one of the snap rings was still on it and couldn't be seen for the grease/rust, and the head was mushroomed just enough to make it bind. Good idea to clean the end of the pin as well as possible and even polish the outer rim with emory cloth or even a FEW light passes with a small file to make sure it has not been made larger than the bore. It's been my experience that most of these pins are not frozen with rust so much as solidified, forty year old grease. The good penetrating oils will soften that crud right up, it just takes patience. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rollerman 290 #5 Posted May 2, 2008 Ian I have had luck useing a hacksaw to carefully cut between the trans case & the hitch. That gets the hitch off & about 9 out of 10 times the remaining peices of the pin come free pretty easy then. Of course I spin a new pin up then..... :whistle: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
linen beige 15 #6 Posted May 3, 2008 Ian, I've used a reciprocating saw with a metal cuting blade to slip between the case and the hitch much as Stephen with the hack saw. Sometimes the blade will just be getting a bite when the vibration will cause the pin to turn and help free it up. That leaves you with weaker but still usable pin. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites