Philipp 1 #1 Posted December 18, 2010 I wanted to make my Wheel Horse a little bit faster so I installed the pulley of a hydro.(original: 4",new: 5"1/4) I had to buy a 2" larger belt, but the belt was toching the dash. I made a little piece to solve this: I tested it and everything worked fine. 10kph(6mph). With the original pulley the top speed was 7.5 kph. Except one thing.... When you disengage the clutch at low rpm, no problem. But when you disengage it at high rpm, The belt keeps turning, and you keep going forward with an afwul sound of the belt that is touching the beltguard under the footrest. Due to this the belt slipt of the clutch pulley, and before I could notice the clutch pulley crashed into the tranny pulley. The bracket that engages the clutch is also damaged, but the transmission pulley is ok. So has anyone tried swapping the pulley's, without having this problem? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse Fanatic 49 #2 Posted December 18, 2010 I would guess your new belt is too long. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Philipp 1 #3 Posted December 18, 2010 I was thinking the opposite. If the belt is shorter, there will be less space around the engine pulley, I think, and so the pulley will keep touching the belt. But if the belt is too long I can't put tension on it... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Don1977 604 #4 Posted December 18, 2010 The belt should be the right length if you had the right belt before. There is 2.03" difference between half the diameter of the two pulleys. One problem is the belt is below the pin at the bottom of the pulley, it was above with the 4" pulley. There is not much room to change that because the belt was rubbing the block with the 4" pulley, but it needs to be moved to below the belt to make the belt release. Was the clutch bracket bent before you changed the pulleys. One other thing that may help is to move the bearings forward and to raise them up in the opening as far as possible to still stop the rubbing on the belt guard. This will get the belt closer to the original position. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,127 #5 Posted December 18, 2010 For starters, the wire belt guide needs to be on the outside of the belt. (I see Don already covered this, but I'm not erasing my picture now. ) Because you have altered the path of the belt by installing the larger engine pulley, you may have to either shorten the tensioner pulley arm, install a smaller tensioner pulley, and/or modify the "finger" above the tensioner pulley so it doesn't dig in to the outside of the belt when the "clutch" is disengaged. No matter what size engine pulley is used, the slack in the belt must be directed forward on the top "run" so the belt lifts out of the engine pulley groove. That contraption you added to the hoodstand might keep the belt from rubbing on the outside, but it might also be fighting the disengagement since there's nothing below it to support the belt when it loosens. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HorseFixer 2,012 #6 Posted December 18, 2010 Theres one of those Damn stamped Pulleys again!! <_< Dont get me started on those! TT covered yer problem well, But If your going to do this again you should use solid steel cast pullys preferably compression type, like the bottom one shown in the picture below. I had a simular problem a couple weeks ago on my snow chucker and will be changing the other two the same way! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Philipp 1 #7 Posted December 18, 2010 Thank you for your answers. A cast pulley is indeed a better solution, I bought a stamped because the old one was worn out, and the store hadn't got any cast ones. I don't see why a smaller tension pulley would solve my problem: When I engage the clutch, the belt is lying on the bracket at the rockshaft (see pic). With a smaller pulley or a shortend bracket the belt will be in exactly the same place and the clutch bracket will be at his end of stroke. I can't place my contraption any higher or more forward, without cutting in the belt guard and dash tower. But when I engage the clutch the belt doesn't touch the bearings, so that isn't a problem. The wire belt guide pin seems to be the only solution, I always wondered what its function was. I'm not going to work on it tomorrow. I have my last exam monday, so I can finally finish the tractor next week. Now when I have finally some snow over here (Belgium), the horse lies in pieces.... But it will be worth it :D Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Redbirdman 7 #8 Posted December 18, 2010 small to large goes slower, large to small goes faster.......right? Would it be possible to reduce the size of the rear pully just a little and increase the size of the front pully just a hair? Maybe keep the same belt size while changing the ratio two-fold????? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zieg72 209 #9 Posted December 18, 2010 small to large goes slower, large to small goes faster.......right? Would it be possible to reduce the size of the rear pully just a little and increase the size of the front pully just a hair? Maybe keep the same belt size while changing the ratio two-fold????? In back you are correct but on the engine it is opposite, think of a 10 speed bike... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Philipp 1 #10 Posted December 18, 2010 That's also a possibility ofcourse. The reason why I changed the engine pulley was that you have a faster ratio without losing the amount of "touchingsurface" of the belt. (the belt doesn't go slipping on heavy loads.) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Redbirdman 7 #11 Posted December 19, 2010 In back you are correct but on the engine it is opposite, think of a 10 speed bike what? huh? uhhhh, I've never really looked at a 10 speed bike.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zieg72 209 #12 Posted December 19, 2010 In back you are correct but on the engine it is opposite, think of a 10 speed bike what? huh? uhhhh, I've never really looked at a 10 speed bike.... Well the typical 10 speed has 2 sprocket on the pedals and 5 on the back. The larger up front paired with the smallest in back is your 10th. speed, hardest to pedal but you will go the fastest if you have the legs... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Philipp 1 #13 Posted December 21, 2010 Thank you guys, I just had to place the wire guide lower and now the clutch works fine at high rpm. The sheetmetal only needed to be folded a bit. I did a race with my father on the raider 10. Mine was a lot faster ... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
