Tear Down didnt go to good

[BairleaFarm 340]

Well I tore down my horse today So i could paint it. All the bolts came loose exceot for 2 that broke on the head, you know the ones for the heat shield. I was pulling the hubs and broke one so I dont know how to get the rest of it off. If you happen to have an extra one let me know. I guess i am going to have to cut the rest off. What a pita. The block blew up at one point as well. Right behind the started someone has welded 5 pieces back together. Interesting to say the least. A couple of questions:

1. How does that pin come out of the steering wheel so I can take it off the shaft?

2. Why does the orange wire from the rectifier go through the ignition and not straight to the battery?

Ill be sure to get pictures when I start putting it back together.

[refracman 167]

Ya tearin down these old tractor can be a adventure to say the least.

Thats a roll pin that holds the steering wheel on. you'll needs a 1/4 punch and drive it out. as for the wirein does it still have the amp gauge on it? id have to check the wireing diagram but it should go from the rectifier to the amp gauge the to the ignition. like i said this is from memory.

go to either the toro site and you can order a manual for it for like 4 bucks or maybe even free. I allways call them and its usually free if you cant order it online.

O ya dont bust to many knuckles

[BairleaFarm 340]

No gauge. The wire goes from the rectifier to the ignition switch and nowhere in between. But why is my question . Would it hurt it to go straight to the battery? Ive got anther ignition switch thats none OEM is why i ask

[WheelHorse_of_course 99]

David,

Good question. I can think of a few reasons, but can't prove any of them.

One possibility is that the lead is disconnected form the battery when you are starting.

ANother is that there might be enough leakage that disconnecting it may prevent slow discharge.

Best of luck

[TT-(Moderator) 1,162]

It goes from the B+ terminal of the rectifier to the "R" terminal on the ignition switch so it can't drain the battery back through the regulator/rectifier if a diode malfunctions. (the ignition switch connects the "B" post and the "R" post when the key is in the "run" position.)

It's an intelligent set up that has worked since 1968, and I don't recommend altering it.

Anyone else here who's seen melted plastic plugs at the ignition switch or rectifier will back me up on this.

Steve -- on the A.C. alternator equipped tractors, the ammeter is hooked into the wire from the battery to the "B" terminal on the ignition switch. When the load at the switch increases and reserve power is pulled from the battery, the amp gauge needle moves to the "discharge" side. When the alternator is recharging the battery, the current flowing through the ignition switch from the R/R to the battery causes the amp gauge needle to move to the "charge" side.

[BairleaFarm 340]

Anyone know off the top of there head what a new switch cost?

[TT-(Moderator) 1,162]

The aftermarket replacement switch for Toro P/N 103990 should be around $9 to $15.

Here's one on ebay: 103990 Switch

[BairleaFarm 340]

Well ive started putting this thing together and should have it running tomorrow. Ive got everything but the seat pan and hood painted with there final coat. The switched is fine I had a loose wire. Ive got her painted a purdy deep cherry red. I post pics but cant find the cord to my camera (at least i took pics)

[KyBlue 655]

Your Doin better ... Hope you'll take a drive on it this weekend, Lemme check it out! I'll be down at the shop probably - Gotta get my truck ready for next weekend