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bambooheels

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bambooheels

i know everyone hs there own way, but wanted to get you guys to input, im restoring a 854 and im now startingon he engine, i have it completely apart and have a engine rebuild kit, staying with stanrd.do you guys suggest bead blasting the block or wire wheel? and any other info would be nice too. thanks guys

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TT

I have done them several different ways, but have never blasted one with any type of media. I know that a lot of these pieces were sand-cast, but I don't like the thought of possible contamination in an engine that relies solely on a small amount of unfiltered oil splashing around inside to keep it lubricated. :whistle:

I'm guessing that glass beading would work OK though, as long as you thoroughly cleaned everything when done.

The best thing I can think of would be soaking the block in a bucket of carburetor cleaner OR undiluted industrial cleaning solution. (parts washer concentrate)

You can use some good paint stripper to remove most of the paint before you soak it - so you don't contaminate the cleaning solution as much.

I actually used a 3" braided wire cup brush on my 4 1/2" grinder on the last one with very good results.

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Two other "little notes":

*Spend the money to have the valves and seats ground correctly. (make sure the guides are within spec too.) You can lose a lot of power through leaking valves, and the engine will start easier and faster.

*Make sure you pre-lube the inside of the camshaft upon reassembly too, or your engine will only run about 2 minutes.

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bambooheels

thanks terry, when you say pre lube the cam, believe it or not i do not know how to do that, i dont even know how to remove it, do they come out of this engine? that was the one tricky part i didnt understand as my history with small engine has been with modern stuff and they just pop right out. all information would be helpfull. as for the valve guides i have new valves that i was going to install but know of no one who who grind them, whats involved?

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CasualObserver

Usually any local machine shop can do it. Check with your local garage (not a car dealer, I'm talking about your local guys.... you know... "Bob's Car Care" or something like that ) and ask them where they would have something like that done. It's usually not very expensive. Machine shops have the right equipment and (usually) have folks that know what they're doing with that equipment so your job is done quickly and painlessly.

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TT

The camshaft on a K series Kohler is held in the block by a hardened and machined shaft (or pin) that passes through the entire camshaft. The cam rotates on this pin and will seize up if you don't use assembly lube or oil it well upon reassembly.

It can be removed once the flywheel side bearing plate is unbolted and removed from the engine block. Flip the block upside-down and using a suitable drift or pin punch, tap the end of the cam pin from the PTO side until it loosens and can be pulled out from the flywheel side. Be careful not to lose the cam shim(s) located on the end opposite the cam gear.

You should have a two piece cam (the older style with the ignition timing advance weights), so try to keep everything held together as you remove the cam from the block. If it does come apart, you will need to line up the index mark on the points lobe section with the corresponding mark on the cam gear while engaging the weight tabs in the other piece of the cam. The advance weight springs can be tricky to get repositioned correctly too, so look at them carefully and take pictures (or make a drawing) of how they are supposed to go.

If you get the cam out of the block without it separating, stick the pin back through it to help keep it together.

Once the cam is out of the block, I use a Sharpie

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bambooheels

as for the cam shaft if im not replacing it do i need to remove it? or do i need to remove it to lubricate it? i dont really understand, but at the same time, ive rebuilt everything else and spent alot of time and money so if i need to remove it i will

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TT

You can't properly clean internal engine parts with the engine still partially assembled. :WRS: If you decide to blast the block, it definitely needs to be EMPTY..... and that includes removing the governor parts too.

If you let the cam in the block and clean the inside of the block like you should, the camshaft will be dry. You can oil the cam and pin through the holes in the lobes -- just be certain that you do. :whistle:

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bambooheels

thanks guys, i met a guy that is located in landsdale, PA, said he always has the largest selection of parts at the show in PA, he had a huge amount of stuff and seemed very knowledgable, i am going to email him and ask if he wouldnt mind teaching me, im very handy just not very knowledgeable on these particular engines, JENKINS was his last name, anyone now hime?

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Buzz

Bill Jenkins is a very knowledgable man. I recommended him to several friends who were hapy with their buys. :whistle:

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bambooheels

hey buzz, do you think mr. jenkins would teach me the engine rebuild or help me with it?

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Buzz

hey buzz, do you think mr. jenkins would teach me the engine rebuild or help me with it?

Probably not, this time of year he might not have time. If I was you I'd try to find an old timer who's retired and would have the time. Might start asking around some of the small mower shops. Keep in mind this is their busy time so you might not have too much luck

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linen beige

Hi y'all, A few months ago I finally gathered all the parts to rebuild the K-91 off my dad's 400. it snapped the rod in '73 and had been sitting in parts since. I began cleaning it by soaking it in a 5 gallon bucket of WD-40. That softened up all the hardened grease and oil on the outside and served as a penetrating oil for the few threaded connections still attached. I then scrubbed it with various sized parts cleaning brushes while washing away residue with laquer thinner sprayed from an airbrush. Carb cleaner will work. Then I glass bead blasted the whole block except inside the cylinder and valve guides, and washed the blast grit out with HOT HOT HOT water. The heat absorbed by the block and use of an air hose made it dry thoroughly before rust could start. I then sprayed a coat of engine enamel, honed the bore, lapped the valves, cleaned it up, more paint, reassembled it, touched up paint, and she started on the second pull. If you do decide to media blast the block, DO NOT blast the cylynder, the valve guides, or the valve seats. I've blasted a few full sized V-8 auto engines and have had no problems.

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