A new arrival in the herd

[Stigian 1,234]

Good morning chaps.

As you might of guessed a new Wheel Horse has joined my herd, a 1971 Raider 10

Model number 1-0300 Serial number 120975 with a K241s 10hp

As you can see its not in the best of condition, but other than the missing seat, rear fender pan , and hood its all there and in original condition

Oh other than someone has changed the ignition system.

The engine i have been told was running very well a year ago but hasnt been used since.

I might be able to get the missing parts (they are owned by someone else!!) which would be nice.

Anyway, here's a few photo's for you to dribble/cringe over

Oh, and it has a Clevis hitch

[TT-(Moderator) 1,162]

Nothing wrong with that tractor , Ian!

Looks like you got a good clevis hitch and a 6 speed transmission.

With luck, you'll get the rest of the pieces.

What's hooked to that lower pulley off the PTO ? Is part of the mower still hooked to the mid hitch?

By the way -- that is the correct "breakerless" ignition system for the "newer" engines. (used from 1969 to about 1972 over here in the 'States.)

Good find! :D

[mailman 1]

I love the Raider tractors. What are your plans for it? Nice find!

[Stigian 1,234]

Cheers for the guys

Ive no idea what that pulley is TT

My first thought was its a pulley for taking belt power back to a rotopotato, but not sure. Hidden away behind the belt with the pulley is a smaller pulley.

Maybe the gent who has the missing bits has an idea, or even has what ever it was that the pulley was powering.

Oh, nice to know that it has the correct ignition system

Mailman, im not quite sure what my plans are for it

I was thinking of breaking it for parts, but if i can get all the missing parts i might well restore it.

Then again, i quite like the honest look it has at the moment..

I had a bit of a closer look today, i broke a head bolt taking the head off, a bit of a pain but it should be easy to sort.

The good news is the barrel looks very clean with no scores

The even better news is the engine turns over very freely

Oh and for something thats 36 or 37 years old im amazed at how well the Raider 10 decals have stood the test of time

[Kelly 1,033]

looks like lots of nice parts, or if you can get the missing parts, maybe the next project make it run and see what you have you may not want to part it out.

[TT-(Moderator) 1,162]

Ive no idea what that pulley is TT

My first thought was its a pulley for taking belt power back to a rotopotato, but not sure. Hidden away behind the belt with the pulley is a smaller pulley.

Maybe the gent who has the missing bits has an idea, or even has what ever it was that the pulley was powering.

Ian,

Is it part of the mower deck drive?

See if it's the same is what is on this RL-366 deck:

http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/index.php?showtopic=1292

[Rollerman 290]

Ian looks like some good now parts & the rest can be put back till the missing ones turn up.

You'll have a matching front tire for your current Raider plus the clevis hitch is a great score!

I'm thinking the same thing TT is...that big pulley looks like the setup for running the "gearbox 2 blade" decks off the later bell style PTO pulley PTO.

[Stigian 1,234]

You chaps certainly know your Wheel Horse stuff

Yes, after looking at the cutting deck pic, id say it was part of a cutting deck at some point in its life. I wonder what happened to the rest, maybe it just rusted away :D

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,493]

Could you post the spec and serial number off that K241? The 1-0300 used a Tecumseh HH100 on the west side of the big pond.

Garry - curious

[Stigian 1,234]

Hiya Garry

A few numbers for you here

The engine is a K241s

Spec number 466432

Serial number 2266802

I looked it up on the Kohlerplus.com website and it says its from a Wheel Horse.

Though if the engine is the original one is anyones guess

Oh, anyone know a good way of removing broken head bolts?

Yesterdays attempts didnt go to well, not the bolt has gone from a few mm's od being proud of the top of the barrel, to a few mm's bellow

Oh the fun of engines eh :dunno:

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,493]

Thanks. Found spec # 46643 but not with a 2 on the end. Kohler shows a point set so must be a variation of the model. The "22" in the serial number makes it produced in 1970 so likely original to the tractor.

Garry

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,493]

Twice now I have removed small bolts broken off deep in the threads by trying to weld the bolt to the inside of a short length of brake tubing with the mig welder. I glued a piece of woven insulating tube used by electric motor rebuilders inside the steel tube so that 1/16" of the inside bottom end of the steel tube was exposed for welding. Stuck it in the hole, advanced some wire into the center, held everything tight and pulled the trigger. After it cooled I was able to turn everything out with my fingers. All those tiny electrons must blow the rust off the threads. Probably more good luck than good management. You should have better luck since the bolt is almost flush and bigger than what I had.

Garry

[Stigian 1,234]

Cheers Garry, you know your kohler stuff

Todays news still isnt that good, but it could be worse

After searching through every box/tub/jar/etc i eventually found a couple of drill bits that would drill down the broken bolt without going blunt in the first 30 sec's

With the hole drilled the strongest "wind in" stud remover was wound in gently.

Hhhmmm its gripping, a good start

Add more pressure and its gripping well.

Add even more pressure and the stud remover starts to twist

At this point it told myself it wouldnt be wise to crank it any more.

The trouble is i didnt listen to myself, cranked it some more and SNAP, the broke off in the broken bolt

After a short walk, not to cool down but to get a jar of coffee from the house the dremel type got called into service.

A couple of hours later and many many small grinding bits i have got most of the stud remover, er... removed from the broken head bolt.

So, im almost back to where i started this morning, and still ing over how to get this blasted broken bolt out.

I did take some photo's of the action but they didnt come out too well

Instead heres a couple of photo's of the pulley that was hanging under the mid mount

[CasualObserver 3,411]

I've broken a couple of extractors like that. My walks after were for cooling off though... to the hardware store for a new extractor Do you have any PB Blaster, or Kroil? Either of those for a couple days will really help if/when you manage to get a bite on the bolt again. Otherwise you might be getting to the point where you're just as far ahead to drill it out and re-tap the hole.

[Mith 2]

Ian, I usually just drill out and retap. Must quicker and less stress. The last one I did on the Commando I tapped to M8, slightly larger than the original size I think, just to get some threads in virgin metal.

[catman81056 3]

How about putting some heat on the metal around the bolt? Seeing as how its right at the exhaust port I would think it wouldn't hurt the block. Just stick the torch tip inside the exhaust and heat the spot next to the broken bolt, then play the flame between the fins on the outside to heat that spot to. Have the easy-out ready and go for it.

When taking broker studs out of exhaust manifolds I usually get the thing red hot, but then I also tig weld a nut on top the the broken bolt/stud. they usually just turn right out.

Just a suggestion.

[Stigian 1,234]

Cheers for the advise guys

Tim - I did try the welding a nut on trick but for some reason i could not get the welds to hold onto the broken bolt Now ive drilled the bolt out id be in danger of welding the bolt to the barrel if i gave it another go.

Jim - Thats a very good idea

With a little bit more grinding the rest of the stud remover will be out, then out with the big drill bit and get it sorted

Oh, the plan for this Raider is now to take it apart to make it easier to store until the time comes to restore it :D