wont go into gear

[BairleaFarm 340]

I had this problem when i got hte tractor a week or so ago. It sat for a long time. It all of a sudden went away. i figured it just had a stuck part or something. Anywho the belt popped off today and it wouldnt go into gear again. it just sits there and grinds. It i start it in gear and hold the belt i can switch gears and let go of the belt. I can shift gears like that all day.

Is the drive pulley suppose to be connected to the brake? seems they are working independently of each other.

thanks in advance

[Buzz 502]

In another forum I said you needed to have the belt guard on and you said it was. How are you holding the belt if the guard is on? Just curious.......might be a new trick I need to learn.

[BairleaFarm 340]

:whistle: i took it off. It randomly started working that day i posted it and i have had no problems out of it since. I took the guard off today to inspect.

[BairleaFarm 340]

I might have found the problem. There is a piece of metal attached the to idler pulley bracket. It hooks over top the pulley. Mine is bent and i bet that piece is suppose to go over the pulley and stop the belt when you depress the pedal.

[KyBlue 655]

How about a couple pictures?? that might help Figure out whats going on??

Your always welcome to come up and check out to see how mine's setup.

[BairleaFarm 340]

:whistle: camera went poopoo last week. No job no camera.

[TT-(Moderator) 1,162]

If the tractor had sat for a long time as you stated, have you cleaned the rust out of the pulley grooves? How rough are the sides of the drive belt? This stuff needs to be smooth to allow slippage when declutched.

There should also be a "tab" at the front edge of the belt guard (near the engine pulley) that forces the belt to "lift" out of the groove when you declutch. The belt has to loosen up (lift out of the groove slightly) on the engine pulley in order for it to stop. Some models also have a wire "guide" (or a pin of some sort) bolted to the engine block that also helps "lift" the belt.

The guide on the idler/tensioner pulley does help to stop the belt, but it doesn't do it alone. It's there mainly to keep the belt from jumping off the tensioner when you declutch.

[BairleaFarm 340]

The belt it rough and the pulleys are rusted. I think that will be a good place to start.

[KyBlue 655]

Yep!!

[Duff 206]

If the tractor had sat for a long time as you stated, have you cleaned the rust out of the pulley grooves? How rough are the sides of the drive belt? This stuff needs to be smooth to allow slippage when declutched.

There should also be a "tab" at the front edge of the belt guard (near the engine pulley) that forces the belt to "lift" out of the groove when you declutch. The belt has to loosen up (lift out of the groove slightly) on the engine pulley in order for it to stop. Some models also have a wire "guide" (or a pin of some sort) bolted to the engine block that also helps "lift" the belt.

The guide on the idler/tensioner pulley does help to stop the belt, but it doesn't do it alone. It's there mainly to keep the belt from jumping off the tensioner when you declutch.

When I restored my 312-8 over the winter I looked at what I thought was just light surface rust on the pulleys. Sure enough, when I put it back together and fired it up, I couldn't get the drive belt to stop turning even when I put in the clutch, which was properly adjusted.

Fortunately the rust has since worn off (without destroying the drive belt, thank God, 'cuz they ain't cheap!)) and everything works like a dream now, but Terry's right - a little time with a wire brush or steel wool on the pulleys is indeed time well spent!

Deereman

[BairleaFarm 340]

I bent that little hook piece on the idler pulley and put the guard back on and its working well.