grader blade attaching

[Red Horse 33]

I would like some help from of the WH experts out there. I know this site has quite a few so here goes: I recently acquired a 40" grader blade from 1975 for my 312-8. I have a couple of questions. First ,it came with nothing but the blade itself-no attaching hardware. My question is whether or not I can use this blade without that attaching hardware. I noticed that it came with some back in the day,but the blade I have is absent that long bracket(arm). The other question is whether this will affect grading at all. Finally, if I do indeed need it, are those brackets available currently? Thanks.

[C-Series14 15]

The older 40" grader blades mounted in the mid attach-a-matic. The only "hardware" you need is the lift link...

When you say "long bracket, arm", do you mean the blade angle lever???

[Red Horse 33]

No the blade angle lever is on the blade . What I was meaning was an additional attachment that I thought was necessary to go on the blade and attach to the tractor I was under the impression that it was needed to make the blade work. Sort of like on the old Lawn Rangers when the snow plow attachment was used. I have the link. Is that all that is needed?

[C-Series14 15]

Well, if the blade has an "A" frame with a 3/4" rod at the widest end, and the dirt side of the blade faces that rod, it mounts in the mid attach-a-matic. It mounts opposite of the newer 50" blades which mount on the rear axle via the axle mounted attach-a-matic. The 40" is "dragged" basically. It hangs from the mid attach point.

There are pics in the Implements Picture Gallery showing the differences between the 40" and the 50".

[AMC RULES 37,235]

the newer 50" blades which mount on the rear axle via the axle mounted attach-a-matic.

The 40" is "dragged" basically. It hangs from the mid attach point.

Does anyone have some picts of the two setups to share here? I'd like to see both, but especially the 50" on the rear attach-a-matic. :)

[Kelly 1,033]

I have a picture of my 50" but it does not show how it mounts very well, I'll try to get pictures after work if it's not raining.

[Forest Road 594]

Here's the 40"

http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/index.php?showtopic=22360

And the 50" new style

http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/index.php?showtopic=1391

I have a 50". I grade 1/4 mile+ of road twice a year. It was a PIA before I found the grader. now its a a pleasure.

[Red Horse 33]

Thanks Cole's dad for posting the picture of the 40" blade. That bar running down the middle of the underside of your blade frame is , I guess, what I was wondering about. I don't have that piece and was wondering if it's necessary to have when hooking it up to a 312-8

[wheelhorse656 20]

nice looking machine

[Forest Road 594]

Thanks Cole's dad for posting the picture of the 40" blade. That bar running down the middle of the underside of your blade frame is , I guess, what I was wondering about. I don't have that piece and was wondering if it's necessary to have when hooking it up to a 312-8

Red Horse

You're welcome but I got those shots from the Redsquare gallery. I'm not familiar w/ the 40" blade. I'm sure there's someone here who can help you. For now just lock it in the attatchamatic just behind the front axle and hopefully figure it out. Best of luck!

[Duff 206]

Here's a link to a couple more pix:

http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/index.php?...ST&f=45&t=22917

Duff :thumbs:

[Horse Fanatic 51]

I guess, what I was wondering about. I don't have that piece and was wondering if it's necessary to have when hooking it up to a 312-8

It's only necessary to have the lift link if you want to be able to lift it or put downward pressure on it. It's not necessary to mount the blade to the tractor.

[hm12460 53]

Gentlemen, of the models shown on this thread, which is the more desirable and why?? I'll be looking for one in the spring. I currently have a model 43C blade on my Deere 216 that works quite well, but it is for sale and i'll need to replace it. The difference in size isn't much of an issue for me as i only use it for my driveway. Currently only have a B-80 but hope to have something just a little bit bigger soon, you know, C-100/C-160 size.

[Forest Road 594]

Gentlemen, of the models shown on this thread, which is the more desirable and why?? I'll be looking for one in the spring. I currently have a model 43C blade on my Deere 216 that works quite well, but it is for sale and i'll need to replace it. The difference in size isn't much of an issue for me as i only use it for my driveway. Currently only have a B-80 but hope to have something just a little bit bigger soon, you know, C-100/C-160 size.

If you're just using a blade of sorts don't worry about getting a twin cylinder. 8 - 12 hp is plenty for pushing and pulling. I'm very happy w/ the 50" grader. I haven't seen a 40". The 50 mounts to the rear axle mounted hitch. the 40 mounts the mid hitch on the tractor frame. you'll see pics of frames cracking at the transaxle mounts. A 40" puts all the stress on those pieces.

The only thing I don't like about either blade is lack of a replaceable scraper blade. You can turn the 50" over once you wear one side down to much. But I'd prefer a replaceable edge to guarantee many many years of service.

[TT-(Moderator) 1,162]

Any well-equipped metal fab / welding shop should be able to roll & punch a new blade.

They could also make a replaceable cutting (wear) edge for an original blade - providing you don't mind drilling holes to mount it. If you don't care about the square holes for carriage bolts, you could make your own cutting edge.

I made my mid-mount grader blade out of an old Sears dozer blade and used a piece of strap steel for a cutting edge. :

The dozer blades and rear-mount grader blades are what crack the tranz mount plate - but only if the operator thinks they're using a Cat dozer or a battering ram. :thumbs: