Rattle Can Clear Coat

[Dave M 0]

When/if you use clear coat from a rattle can, are you guys using Valspar or Rustoleum or some other brand? And, are you sanding prior to applying the clear coat or are you puting it on directly over the paint? When I sprayed my wheels (silver Rustoleum) I sanded, primed, sanded, painted, sanded and re-painted a second coat, and then sanded and clear coated. The wheels came out pretty good. Now, using the Valspar IH Red, I sanded, primed, sanded, painted, and then sanded and painted a second coat of IH Red. I'm ready to clear coat, but the Valspar Clear that I found (at Lowes-TSC didn't have Valspar Clear) says it's for indoor/outdoor use. I'm wondering how durable it is. I've sanded the last coat of red with 1500 paper and now wondering whether I should have done this or not. How are you guys applying clear? So far, I've just done the fender pan since I'm kind of experimenting with the paint and my limited skills. Thanks

[MikesRJ 552]

Here's some good recommendations on applying clear coat. Also the associated link is an excellent product I have used over Valspar Restoration Series IH Red Aerosol Paint.

Info:

http://www.automotivetouchup.com/spray-paint-directions.htm

Clear Coat:

http://www.automotivetouchup.com/spray_paint_clearcoat.aspx

[Dave M 0]

Thank you Mike.

[PPGman 5]

Dave i can't speak for the rattle can clear your using, but i can tell you that anytime you sand between coats it makes your paint lay much flatter and smoother. It also gives your next coat something to "bite" into. I think your on the right track here if your looking for a nice deep finish. Sanding gives you a chance to remove any "orange peel" that starts to pile up when you apply multiple coats of paint. The less orange peel you have, the deeper the shine will be on your paint. The other thing the sanding does for you is gives you a chance to get rid of any dirt or imperfections that found its way into your paint before they get burried under multiple coats. Its alot more work, but in the end, its worth it.

I would think that 1500grit would be in the ball park for rattle can clear. Some colors i can go as low as 800-1000 grit, but thats with a 2k urathane clear. You just have to remember that rattle can paint / clear is paper thin compared to automotive paints so 1500 might still be a bit agressive to cover the sand scratches with your next coat. You might want to bump up to a 2000 grit or finer if the scratches don't cover with your next coat.

I'm sure it will look great when your done. Look forward to seeing the finished product! :)

[Dave M 0]

Thanks, Doug. I haven't been on RS for awhile and just caught your reponse. I'm kind of at the rubbing compound stage right now. The finish I ended up with is pretty decent, not great, but better than what I had. I'm still on the learning curve. I'm doing this paint work on an '86, or so, 310-8 I've had since almost new. I see you have a 416-8. I've got one of those, too. Great tractor, and in much better shape than my 310. Thanks for your reply.