Fuel solenoid question

[3spaniels 0]

I have a Toro/ Wheelhorse 267H that seems to be having a lack of fuel problem. If I energize the fuel cut-off solenoid on the bottom of the carburetter will it give a audible click when doing so??? Does anyone know what the resistance should be?? :)

[TT-(Moderator) 1,129]

It might be easier to remove the solenoid (or carb top) and watch the plunger when it energizes.

I have never really paid much attention to them, but I imagine that they could click when power is applied.

[wallfish 16,043]

Not sure if this helps but the one on my crappy Bolens with a 15hp Briggs clicks when power is applied to it.

[rick 217]

It's sometimes easier to put your finger on the solenoid and feel it "click".

[3spaniels 0]

Well, that answers it! Can't hear it "click", can't feel it "click" can't see it move. Must get one ordered... :)

[Save Old Iron 1,564]

Well, that answers it!

[3spaniels 0]

:)

We have ignition, fuel and air Houston...and lift-off of the mower T/WH 267H!!!

Thank you so much for the advice.

To make a long story short:

1) Replaced fuel line from fuel filter to fuel pump (cracked and leaking) now using TYGON...Good Stuff!

2) Replaced fuel pump (leaking fuel from small brass air filter)

3) Replaced fuel shut-off solenoid (drew current, resistence @32 ohms...unable to get it freed up after disassembly)

4) removed all jets and orfices cleaned with soft copper wire, carb cleaner and air hose.

I bought this mower knowing it did not run...wanted the VAC-Bagger that was on it.

Much relief today!!! :wh:

[Save Old Iron 1,564]

1) Replaced fuel line from fuel filter to fuel pump (cracked and leaking) now using TYGON...Good Stuff!

3) Replaced fuel shut-off solenoid (drew current, resistence @32 ohms...unable to get it freed up after disassembly)

3spaniels,

thanks for the solenoid feedback

@32 ohms, the current draw should have been around 300 - 400 milliamps.

The jammed plunger is the reason you did not hear a click. The current thru the coil was attempting to move the plunger, but as you said, the plunger was mechanically jammed.

If you can soak penetration oil into the plunger area inside the casing, the plunger will probably loosen enough to be removed, cleaned and kept as a spare or sold!

Make sure the Tygon is intended for hydrocarbon based fuel products. I believe the tubing should be stamped every foot or so with an identifier.

"F" tubing should be OK for fuel. F4040 is a formulation for hydrocarbon based fuel.

[3spaniels 0]

I was able to remove the plunger and the spring. I did get the plunger and spring cleaned up ok, but, the I.D. of the solenoid appears rusty and quite rough. I am going to see if I can fit a brass brush into it and give that a slow speed spin...maybe it will help. Perhaps I will end up with a spare before I need one.