74 Raider 12 ! or C 120?

[Anglo Traction 761]

Not sure if this is worth a Resto. . It's a bit of a wreck and has odd bits from later models.

look's better in a photo

Adjustable Steering Arms on a 74 ?

Hub Rub !!! I've read the thread on this.

Battery Tray is a Gonner, as is the Starter.

Still, it will keep me out of trouble over the winter (and my Bank balance low). I'll make it a tidy 'Utility Worker', rather than a Resto. Are there any issues with putting 23 x 10.50 x 12" Ag Tires on the Rims ?.

I did get a nice 36" RD Deck with it though!.

Regards.

[Kelly 1,035]

Is the steering wheel factory?? I've seen a few from your side of the pond that have that style.

[fordsonmajortom 1]

Well worth a restoration even if you just give it a repaint, My Raider 14 was in about the same condition when i got it. It's a c120 in the U.S.A but a Raider12 in the U.K, they carried on the named horse's longer on the Belgium built ones.The front tie rods have probobly been changed a couple of times. The wheel hub has come loose and moved in. If you need new seals there is a thread on here giving you the part no's which any bearing supplier should be able to get for you.

Michael :)

[Anglo Traction 761]

Hi Kelly, The Steering Wheel is British Made, It seems they (Belgium Factory) sourced them locally for most of the units they produced for the Euro Market, as were the Seats. Just about everything else on them is all Wheel Horse U.S. manufacture.

Hi Michael, Yes, the Hub position is the work of the previous Owner. He took the Tranny apart to try and sort a problem with the Hi-Lo gear. Needles to say it is going to be overhauled. No Problem with sourcing parts for this thanks, it's the second time around for me and I have all the Manuals. That doesn't mean I won't need some of the very helpful Topic Threads here posted by more experienced people.

Regards.

[neil 2,415]

good luck with restore Richard i have some parts from a commando 8oo should you need anything also a 12hp pull start engine that has good commpression

did you get the pics of my restore that i sent you

good luck

neil

[WH Raider10 17]

That's a really nice raider 14 you got there! Yes that one is probably made in Belgium,it has the Belgian decals,steer and seat.

Should there be a space between the hub and transaxle? On my raider 10 there is no space at all on both sides. Is it a problem? I'm driving with it for 3 years without any problem.

Regards from belgium.

Pieter-Jan :USA:

[Anglo Traction 761]

[ good luck with restore Richard i have some parts from a commando 8oo should you need anything also a 12hp pull start engine that has good commpression

did you get the pics of my restore that i sent you]

Yes Neil, magnificent collection........ Thanks for that.....check your Inbox. I may have to pay you a visit soon....... Could do with a few Ciders !

[should there be a space between the hub and transaxle? ]

Hi Piete-Jan, er! Yep !. It means your slowly grinding away your Transmission Case where the delicate Oil Seals are. The Cast Iron Swarf generated will embed in the Oilseals and then they start leaking. Also , The Woodruf Key in the Shaft is not locked in place by the Hub Locking Bolt. This Bolt is also denting the Shaft where you don't want it. The End of the Drive Shaft should be inline with the outside face of the Hub. If you need a photo, I will put one on this Thread for you.

Regards

[WH Raider10 17]

A photo would be verry helpfull,if you could explain me what I need to do to set the hubs back to normal would be great. So far there're no oil leaks.

Thanks for the help! :wh:

[WH Raider10 17]

Here is what my transaxle and hubs look like.

Attached Image

[Anglo Traction 761]

Ok Pieter-Jan,

have a look at this Thread in the 'Transmissions and Transaxles' Forum..This will help you . click this link http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/index.php?showtopic=20908

I will try and send you some photos.

[WH Raider10 17]

Thanks,I understand a bit more about it but I've no idea wich bolts I need to loosen to take my hub of. If you could make me some pics of what I need to do would be great.

I've seen on the forum here and on google that there're a lot of wheelhorses that don't have the space between the hub and transaxle. I'll check tomorrow if my driveshaft is inline with the hub.

Thanks for the help so far! I apprecied it! :)

[Anglo Traction 761]

Here is another you should read, as your Hubs may not be easy to remove or re-position.

There is a risk of damage to the Hub or the retaining clip on the Inner end of the Axle Shafts.

You will need a Hub Puller tool to remove them later, but for now , you can regularly apply a Penetrating Oil to the Hub/Axle joints at this time. I'll try and get the demonstration/photos to you as soon as possible.

http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/index.php?showtopic=16655

[WH Raider10 17]

I just put a lot of penetrating oil on the litlle bolt that comes out of my hub. Is this the bolt that I need to loosen or take of? to get my hub loose of the woodruf key?

The bolts of my right rim are loose,the left one is fighting with me. So far I putted penetrating oil on there also.

I'll wait on the pics before I continue!

Thanks! :)

[HankB 16]

I just put a lot of penetrating oil on the litlle bolt that comes out of my hub.

I think you also want to put some on the interface between the hub and shaft itself. That gets rusty and makes it difficult to remove the hub from the shaft once the set screws are loose.

There was some recent information going around the web about using a 50:50 mix of acetone and ATF as a penetrating oil. It was supposed to work pretty good. Acetone is strong stuff to be working with, but for this application it might be worth a try.

Good luck!

-hank