Raider 2 #1 Posted September 30, 2010 I've found an HH160 Tec engine that I think might make a nice repower option for my Raider with HH100. I like the HH100 but just for kicks might want to try and add a bunch of HP if the swap is possible (and economical). I believe my current crankshaft output is 1-1/8"dia x 3-1/2" length. The engine I'm considering is 1" dia. x 3" length. Is there a 1" pully and inner PTO bearing available to make this possible? I assume the length is not a huge issue. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,129 #2 Posted September 30, 2010 The best source for those parts would be a B-80/C-81/C-85 with the K-181 Kohler. The Briggs-powered WorkHorse tractors like the GT-1100/1142 & GT-1600/1642 would be another. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tarcoleo 119 #3 Posted September 30, 2010 Maybe there's something I don't understand, but wouldn't a bushing 1" ID x 1-1/8 OD do the trick? Tom in RI :) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Don1977 604 #4 Posted September 30, 2010 The drive pulley will have to be changed to 1". This can be done by boring out the pulley and sleeve it down to 1" and keying it. Then you can use use a bushing 1 1/8 x 1" inside dia for the PTO. Unless you have some one to do the machine work it may be better to find the parts TT suggested. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tarcoleo 119 #5 Posted September 30, 2010 I see the point about the woodruff key for the drive pulley. How bad would it be to put a slot in the bushing that I suggested that would allow a large key (taller that is) to engage the drive pulley? The slotted part of the bushing would be integral with the part of the bushing that accommodates the pto. I believe with a little poking around one can find such a bushing and hog out the slot. On the other hand, if the part that Terry suggested can be located reasonably, that would be the easier way to go, and I'm all for easy. Tom in RI Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 10,981 #6 Posted September 30, 2010 Maybe there's something I don't understand, but wouldn't a bushing 1" ID x 1-1/8 OD do the trick? Going from 1 inch to 1 and 1/8th would only give you a wall thickness of 1/16th of an inch. Pretty thin for the stress it would be under. How bad would it be to put a slot in the bushing that I suggested that would allow a large key (taller that is) to engage the drive pulley? The slotted part of the bushing would be integral with the part of the bushing that accommodates the pto. I believe with a little poking around one can find such a bushing and hog out the slot. If you're talking the same bushing, it would have to be a very small key. But, I may not be following you correctly here... My apologies if I am not. Kevin Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tarcoleo 119 #7 Posted September 30, 2010 Kev- I'm suggesting that the key would engage the motor shaft and drive pulley THROUGH a slot in the bushing. The key would have to be "taller" than the original key to do so, about 1/16". Trouble is while a picture may be worth a thousand words, just a few words can produce a thousand pictures in a thousand heads. Tom in RI Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WheelHorse_of_course 99 #8 Posted September 30, 2010 Kev- I'm suggesting that the key would engage the motor shaft and drive pulley THROUGH a slot in the bushing. The key would have to be "taller" than the original key to do so, about 1/16". Trouble is while a picture may be worth a thousand words, just a few words can produce a thousand pictures in a thousand heads. Tom in RI Tom, I think this is a valid approach. AFAIK it has not been done, but this would be better than bushing just the outside portion since the main pulley and key would lock the sleeve in place. Given the fairly easy availability of WH parts on this board, TT's approach should be considered first. If not I would personally go with your approach. :) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tarcoleo 119 #9 Posted September 30, 2010 Rolf, Kev et al- There may be a problem with the slotted bushing idea: if there is only one set screw in the drive pulley that tightens on the key, then the bushing is not secured. I don't remember if there is more than one set screw in the pulley, if there is, you're good to go with the bushing. Tom in RI Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kelly 1,028 #10 Posted September 30, 2010 Just get the pulley and PTO bushing/sleeve from a 8hp tractor and your all set no screwing around, direct fit, I've done it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mavfreak 11 #11 Posted September 30, 2010 I concur with Kelly Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,129 #12 Posted September 30, 2010 Yeah....... me too. :) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tarcoleo 119 #13 Posted September 30, 2010 Okay, I agree. T in RI Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Raider 2 #14 Posted October 1, 2010 Great, I really appreciate the suggestions and discussion. Now does anyone have the parts? I can get my hands on this engine for almost nothing and if it's an easy swap I'd do it and hang on to my HH100 for spare, it's a fairly new shortblock and runs fantastic. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chris11 184 #15 Posted October 1, 2010 Go to tractor supply and buy any size pully with any size shaft bushing allready keyed.............. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kelly 1,028 #16 Posted October 1, 2010 I might have the parts, bug me with a PM in a few days, and Chris, that will not work for him he needs the cast pulley with the holes to mount the PTO. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,129 #17 Posted October 1, 2010 Go to tractor supply and buy any size pully with any size shaft bushing allready keyed.............. The OEM drive pulleys are drilled & tapped on the face for the four PTO inner bearing race retainer bolts. Aftermarket pulleys could possibly have them added, but why bother when OEM parts (that will work without modification) are available? If the PTO is not going to be used or an electric clutch is fitted, then it doesn't matter if the drive pulley has the holes. edit: Sorry, Kelly........ I didn't see you typing. :) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kelly 1,028 #18 Posted October 1, 2010 You added way more than me TT, again just get the right parts, I'll look this weekend. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Raider 2 #19 Posted October 1, 2010 I appreciate it guys. I'd like to use WH parts. I intend to use the tiller and perhaps the blower as a backup to the 312. I have a spare PTO off my B-100, would just need the drive pulley and PTO bushing. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tarcoleo 119 #20 Posted October 1, 2010 Raider- This may help you in your search- http://www.wheelhorse.org/phpBB3/viewtopic...0&t=988&start=0 Tom in RI Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kelly 1,028 #21 Posted October 1, 2010 Well I can tell you most all that info IS WRONG do not go by that. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 10,981 #22 Posted October 1, 2010 Well I can tell you most all that info IS WRONG do not go by that. Yep- Kelly is right. I posted that a while back with wrong info, and completely forgot it was still out there. Thanks Kelly- Good eyes there! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tarcoleo 119 #23 Posted October 1, 2010 Never one to let a sleeping dog lie, check out the link below for steel tubing that might be used to fabricate the bushing suggested in the discussion above. http://www.metalsdepot.com/Cart3/viewCart1...;LimAcc&aident= Tom in RI :) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites