How can I repower with a 1" shaft?

[Raider 2]

I've found an HH160 Tec engine that I think might make a nice repower option for my Raider with HH100. I like the HH100 but just for kicks might want to try and add a bunch of HP if the swap is possible (and economical). I believe my current crankshaft output is 1-1/8"dia x 3-1/2" length. The engine I'm considering is 1" dia. x 3" length.

Is there a 1" pully and inner PTO bearing available to make this possible? I assume the length is not a huge issue.

[TT-(Moderator) 1,169]

The best source for those parts would be a B-80/C-81/C-85 with the K-181 Kohler.

The Briggs-powered WorkHorse tractors like the GT-1100/1142 & GT-1600/1642 would be another.

[tarcoleo 120]

Maybe there's something I don't understand, but wouldn't

a bushing 1" ID x 1-1/8 OD do the trick?

Tom in RI :)

[Don1977 605]

The drive pulley will have to be changed to 1". This can be done by boring out the pulley and sleeve it down to 1" and keying it. Then you can use use a bushing 1 1/8 x 1" inside dia for the PTO. Unless you have some one to do the machine work it may be better to find the parts TT suggested.

[tarcoleo 120]

I see the point about the woodruff key for the drive pulley.

How bad would it be to put a slot in the bushing that I suggested

that would allow a large key (taller that is) to engage the drive

pulley? The slotted part of the bushing would be integral with

the part of the bushing that accommodates the pto. I believe

with a little poking around one can find such a bushing and hog

out the slot.

On the other hand, if the part that Terry suggested can be located

reasonably, that would be the easier way to go, and I'm all for

easy.

Tom in RI

[kpinnc 16,275]

Maybe there's something I don't understand, but wouldn't

a bushing 1" ID x 1-1/8 OD do the trick?

Going from 1 inch to 1 and 1/8th would only give you a wall thickness of 1/16th of an inch. Pretty thin for the stress it would be under.

How bad would it be to put a slot in the bushing that I suggested

that would allow a large key (taller that is) to engage the drive

pulley? The slotted part of the bushing would be integral with

the part of the bushing that accommodates the pto. I believe

with a little poking around one can find such a bushing and hog

out the slot.

If you're talking the same bushing, it would have to be a very small key. But, I may not be following you correctly here... My apologies if I am not.

Kevin

[tarcoleo 120]

Kev-

I'm suggesting that the key would engage the motor shaft and drive

pulley THROUGH a slot in the bushing. The key would have to be "taller"

than the original key to do so, about 1/16".

Trouble is while a picture may be worth a thousand words, just a few

words can produce a thousand pictures in a thousand heads.

Tom in RI

[WheelHorse_of_course 100]

Kev-

I'm suggesting that the key would engage the motor shaft and drive

pulley THROUGH a slot in the bushing. The key would have to be "taller"

than the original key to do so, about 1/16".

Trouble is while a picture may be worth a thousand words, just a few

words can produce a thousand pictures in a thousand heads.

Tom in RI

Tom,

I think this is a valid approach. AFAIK it has not been done, but this would be better than bushing just the outside portion since the main pulley and key would lock the sleeve in place.

Given the fairly easy availability of WH parts on this board, TT's approach should be considered first. If not I would personally go with your approach.

:)

[tarcoleo 120]

Rolf, Kev et al-

There may be a problem with the slotted bushing idea: if there is only

one set screw in the drive pulley that tightens on the key, then the

bushing is not secured. I don't remember if there is more than one

set screw in the pulley, if there is, you're good to go with the bushing.

Tom in RI

[Kelly 1,035]

Just get the pulley and PTO bushing/sleeve from a 8hp tractor and your all set no screwing around, direct fit, I've done it.

[mavfreak 11]

I concur with Kelly

[TT-(Moderator) 1,169]

Yeah....... me too. :)

[tarcoleo 120]

Okay, I agree.

T in RI

[Raider 2]

Great, I really appreciate the suggestions and discussion. Now does anyone have the parts?

I can get my hands on this engine for almost nothing and if it's an easy swap I'd do it and hang on to my HH100 for spare, it's a fairly new shortblock and runs fantastic.

[chris11 184]

Go to tractor supply and buy any size pully with any size shaft bushing allready keyed..............

[Kelly 1,035]

I might have the parts, bug me with a PM in a few days, and Chris, that will not work for him he needs the cast pulley with the holes to mount the PTO.

[TT-(Moderator) 1,169]

Go to tractor supply and buy any size pully with any size shaft bushing allready keyed..............

The OEM drive pulleys are drilled & tapped on the face for the four PTO inner bearing race retainer bolts.

Aftermarket pulleys could possibly have them added, but why bother when OEM parts (that will work without modification) are available?

If the PTO is not going to be used or an electric clutch is fitted, then it doesn't matter if the drive pulley has the holes.

edit: Sorry, Kelly........ I didn't see you typing. :)

[Kelly 1,035]

You added way more than me TT, again just get the right parts, I'll look this weekend.

[Raider 2]

I appreciate it guys. I'd like to use WH parts. I intend to use the tiller and perhaps the blower as a backup to the 312. I have a spare PTO off my B-100, would just need the drive pulley and PTO bushing.

[tarcoleo 120]

Raider-

This may help you in your search-

http://www.wheelhorse.org/phpBB3/viewtopic...0&t=988&start=0

Tom in RI

[Kelly 1,035]

Well I can tell you most all that info IS WRONG do not go by that.

[kpinnc 16,275]

Well I can tell you most all that info IS WRONG do not go by that.

Yep- Kelly is right. I posted that a while back with wrong info, and completely forgot it was still out there.

Thanks Kelly- Good eyes there!

[tarcoleo 120]

Never one to let a sleeping dog lie, check out the link below

for steel tubing that might be used to fabricate the bushing

suggested in the discussion above.

http://www.metalsdepot.com/Cart3/viewCart1...;LimAcc&aident=

Tom in RI :)