digiHorse 0 #1 Posted September 29, 2010 Guys and gals- I've read the topic on plow fitment and as much else as i can to the point where I'm less sure than when I knew nothing. I have a few plows for sale in my area that I'd like to move on and I just don't know what will fit my '69 workhorse 700. It seems that I'm safe being that I have a short frame and most will fit. Is that right? Do newer plows work on this year? I'm as confused as all hell and could use some direction. Thanks Greg Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kelly 1,033 #2 Posted September 29, 2010 First off yes you have a short frame tractor, and you can use a early plow made for short frames, or a newer plow to fit long frame tractors as long as the rear cross bar is the removable type, there will be two sets of holes for the cross bar to fit in you will need to move the bar to the forward set, don't forget you need a rear axle bracket to mount the plow and they can be $50 up by themselves, so figure that in when buying a plow. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
digiHorse 0 #3 Posted September 29, 2010 First off yes you have a short frame tractor, and you can use a early plow made for short frames, or a newer plow to fit long frame tractors as long as the rear cross bar is the removable type, there will be two sets of holes for the cross bar to fit in you will need to move the bar to the forward set, don't forget you need a rear axle bracket to mount the plow and they can be $50 up by themselves, so figure that in when buying a plow. Kelly - I get it now. Thanks a ton for the simple explanation. Greg Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
digiHorse 0 #4 Posted September 29, 2010 Ok, I am now able to buy with a better understanding. I know the WH 700 manual mentions 42" plows as accesory to this tractor. Anyone feel a 48" will be too much for this machine to handle? I have a feeling it's 7hp can and will handle it but I defer to others' experience....thanks Greg And now that I think of it, I wonder if the sellers info is accurate. Is there a 48"? Either would work for me.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kelly 1,033 #5 Posted September 29, 2010 Yes they made a 48", but from my experience I don't like them for the fact that they tend to push the tractor sideways more when angled, and that was on a C-121 a bigger and heavier tractor, but that is just me. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
digiHorse 0 #6 Posted September 29, 2010 Thank you, I went ahead and picked up the 48". It's a 1991 that looks like it was used once. Very pleased about that. I'll need to get the longer lift link, mounting shaft for the shorter wheelbase and a couple cotter pins. Then should be good to go. Hopefully it won't push me around at angle as you experienced. I'll find out for sure. Thanks again for your help. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
digiHorse 0 #7 Posted September 29, 2010 OK, my first discontinued parts, nice. The longer lift link isn't discontinued but $45....it looks pretty simple to replicate with the right dimensions. Anyone having to use this longer link? 1972 WH or earlier would require it with the WH snow dozer blade 48" (this one is 1991 blade model)......could use the dimensions if anyone has it.???? Second.....there are 2 sets of holes for the mounting shaft, but, the rear set is used by a NON-removable mount shaft. Fine, just need to get one that is removable to use on the front set of holes, but discontinued. Must be able to fabricate this.....I hope. :) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HankB 16 #8 Posted September 30, 2010 The longer lift link isn't discontinued but $45....it looks pretty simple to replicate with the right dimensions. Anyone having to use this longer link? 1972 WH or earlier would require it with the WH snow dozer blade 48" (this one is 1991 blade model)......could use the dimensions if anyone has it.???? Is that the link between the plow and lift arm? First two plows I had didn't even have this piece. I just used a piece of chain and a couple clevises. You don't get downforce that way but it works fine on snow. Second.....there are 2 sets of holes for the mounting shaft, but, the rear set is used by a NON-removable mount shaft. Fine, just need to get one that is removable to use on the front set of holes, but discontinued. Must be able to fabricate this.....I hope. Isn't that just a 3/4" steel rod? (Measure to be sure!) Just drill a couple holes to mount pins inboard of the frame to hold it in place. (For extra points, paint the rod red. ) -hank Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
digiHorse 0 #9 Posted September 30, 2010 The longer lift link isn't discontinued but $45....it looks pretty simple to replicate with the right dimensions. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HankB 16 #10 Posted September 30, 2010 Interesting about drilling the holes in the rod 'inboard' of the frame. Is that because the outside of the frame, where the hole, is is not flat? I was wondering to myself about this lastnight when trying to decide where to drill those holes.... Where does your rear axle hitch fit the frame? I should have asked that first. Mine fits outside the frame and would interfere with any pins placed there. However I do recall having an older style rear axle hitch that might have fit between the frame members. If that's what you have, put the pins outboard of the frame. -hank Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
digiHorse 0 #11 Posted September 30, 2010 Interesting about drilling the holes in the rod 'inboard' of the frame. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
digiHorse 0 #12 Posted September 30, 2010 Ok, got my 3/4 steel rod, holes drilled, chain and clevis assembly.....all set to go. EXCEPT... My new mounting shaft will not sit in the rear axle mounting bracket because the rear shaft mount (the one the I can't move because it's welded) is obstructed buy the hitch....so I looked at the parts schematic of my model and it looks likea simple pin with collars holding the hitch in place. So just hammer her out right? Wrong.....sure didn't want to come out......is this a "it's been in there for 41 years what do you expect?" or does it take more than just force? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kelly 1,033 #13 Posted September 30, 2010 Just cut the old cross shaft off flush with the frame, that is what I ment by a movable rear cross shaft not all of them are, again just cut it off, deal with getting the hitch pin out later, soak it now so maybe it will come out later Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
digiHorse 0 #14 Posted September 30, 2010 Just cut the old cross shaft off flush with the frame, that is what I ment by a movable rear cross shaft not all of them are, again just cut it off, deal with getting the hitch pin out later, soak it now so maybe it will come out later Twist my arm.......done, rear cross shaft gone. Fits like a glove. BUT, I gotta just shorten the whole frame rather than just remove the shaft. The frame rails are blocking my ability to pin the rear axle bracket arms in place......As if you have to do this in order to use it on a short frame......'magine that.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kelly 1,033 #15 Posted September 30, 2010 If you had the newer style axle bracket you would not have to, but do as you need to make it fit. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
digiHorse 0 #16 Posted October 1, 2010 Just a quick thanks for the help. Plow has been test fit and run....good to go. Cheers Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HankB 16 #17 Posted October 1, 2010 Just a quick thanks for the help. Plow has been test fit and run....good to go. Pictures or it didn't happen! Glad to hear it worked out. -hank Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
digiHorse 0 #18 Posted October 1, 2010 Fair enough: Hope this works 1. The surgery. Cut off shaft first to remedy interference with lift hitch. Then frame rails to allow rear axle mount to close and hairpin cotter into place. 2. New 3/4" steel mounting shaft, drilled holes at both ends and cotter pinned in place. And you can see the safety hairpins now clear the frame rail. 3. And there's the rear fully assembled. 4. In place of $45 replacement entended lift link, a chain and clevis on plow frame. 5. Same rig on Lift Arm. 6. And here she is.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pumper.atv 26 #19 Posted October 2, 2010 Looks like we will have to beleve you now Seeing is beliveing Nice job though :wh: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HankB 16 #20 Posted October 2, 2010 Great pictures! Now I understand why you had to cut the plow frame short. (On mine I never bothered pinning the latches and they never came loose.) I also see why you had to mount your pins on the cross bar outboard. My rear axle bracket has a bar connecting the two pieces and they clamp to the axle facing the opposite direction. So... How soon will it snow? -hank Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kelly 1,033 #21 Posted October 4, 2010 Glad to help, by the way nice looking old tractor, is it orig. paint?? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
digiHorse 0 #22 Posted October 4, 2010 Glad to help, by the way nice looking old tractor, is it orig. paint?? Thanks. Actually presently the hood, fenders and belt guard are off, sanded and primed. The paint you see is not original. All the good info on RS got me to plunge into repainting it. Right now I'm trying to size up doing the whole thing. Uncharted territory for me.... Which reminds my I have to get some new decals from vinylguy.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites