Engine oil

[Brrly1 1,146]

Ok, I am finally getting to the point where I am getting ready to fire up the 16 hp Kohler on my loader tractor. Yes it is on a GT14 as if you didn't know. One of my Wheel Horse sidekicks says don't forget the zinc additive. I guess what I am asking should I just go with synthetic right from the git-go and not worry about the additive because I do want the motor to last. Or do I just add the valvoline plus some of the additive, run it for about an hour or so + change it. Then possibly go with the Amsoil. I will run the Amsoil because thats what I run my pickup on and thats what we also use at work. Saws, trucks and whatever else requires oil. They even have the Amsoil synthetic trans fluid. Just curious?

See Ya, Bye

Burly

:USA:

[Kelly 1,033]

Is this a new engine? or a rebuilt one, if new (with new camshaft) use straight weight oil with a additive to help the cam break in, if a rebuilt engine with old cam, you can use your amsoil, but I would run cheap oil for 10 min. or so to flush out anything that got in the engine during rebuilding, then switch to your amsoil.

[Brrly1 1,146]

Kelly, Its a rebuilt motor. Crank ground down, rewelded back to stock. Bored .010 over. kohler rod and piston. !6 hp motor, orignal cam. Carl did the rebuild. I also have a 14 hp sitting here rebuilt the same way. Steve was telling me about the zinc additive. Thanks for the info. See Ya, Bye Burly

:USA:

[Jim_M 179]

Lucas Oil sells a break in additive that's high in ZDDP (zinc). It's recommended for breaking in new camshafts and also as an anti-wear additive in engines with flat tappet camshafts, such as a Kohler K series has.

I won't give any opinions on conventional vs. synthetic, but I would recommend at least 5 maybe even 10 hours on conventional oil to be sure the rings are seated before switching to synthetic. Shell Rotella T 30W diesel oil would be great for that. It's good oil and is higher in ZDDP than most conventional oils.

I've always been told that if you run synthetic in an engine before the rings are seated, they'll never seat. It might be true, might not be, but I don't take the chance.

[Audioshot 2]

I use the Shell Rotella T6 synth 5w40 in the colder months on my machines and sometimes Rotella 15w40 in the summer. I have to admit that the Kohler Magnum on my 310-8 runs real quite with the Rotella 15W40. Plus it has plenty of zinc and phosphorus.

BTW - Don't research too much about different oils. Your head will explode.

[Forest Road 594]

Is it a pressurized lube motor? Or an old school splash lube? If its a splash I've been told to stay away from synthetic oils. Apparently they're to slick and don't lubricate as well. And tend to run down off the cylinder when not used for extended periods. This was from a 30 year small engine shop owner.

And consider this. These old Kohlers have been known to run for 30 years on standard oil. Save your money.

For the record I use Amsoil in my truck and my wife's minivan. I change the oil once a year or @ 15000 miles. And change the filters every 5000 and top off. Love it!

[rick 257]

I would take the advice on synthetic oil not being good for splash lubed engines with a grain of salt. Briggs now recommends synthetic oil in their engines, all of 'em. I have changed mine to 10W30 with no problems, including the 10.5 HP on my DR mower that regularly sees operation at almost 45 degrees tilt. I will use the Rotella 30W in my Kohlers when my supply of NAPA is gone.

[nichocli 0]

Synthetic oils are very good oils. They are designed to handle contaminants and heat for extended oil change intervals. They start life the same as conventional oils with the same base stock of dino juice. The only thing that is different is the additive package. it is designed to run longer. and in a splash lube engine with no way to filter it will work just as well as conventional oil. (just cost more) If you run a proper weight oil for the temperature and application convencional or synthetic you will be just fine just change often

Ok then I have done it I probably pee'd is someones post toasties :)

[KC9KAS 4,744]

Anyone ever hear of a brand called PROLONG?

I work for a major automotive drive line remanufacture, and a fellow was in today showing his products. Looked good...his tests for friction just blew LUCAS away, as well as others.

[Jim_M 179]

I should probably clarify a couple of things.

I'm not pushing Lucas products, there are other companies that sell ZDDP and label it as break in lube to pacify the feds. Lucas was the first one that popped in my head because it was the last brand that I bought.

I'm also not putting down synthetic oils, just saying that you should break an engine in on conventional oil. To each his own.

But in my opinion it's hard to beat Rotella T for use in an engine with a flat tappet camshaft since the E.P.A. forced the removal of zinc and other anti-wear additives from automotive oils. Most oils labeled as racing oil also have higher levels of zinc, but may be hard to find in 30W or 10W30.

[WH nut 553]

I run a good grade 10w40 in everything I have and have never had a problem

[VinsRJ 723]

I have always run straight 30 in all of my splash oil motors...... Except for my new snowblower. Broke it in on straight 30 but now run 10-30 synth in it...... Why, I have no idea.

From my experiences if you convert an older motor (not rebuilt) to synth and its got a small oil leak or weep, that situation only gets worse. :)

[clintonnut 126]

I use the Shell Rotella T6 synth 5w40 in the colder months on my machines and sometimes Rotella 15w40 in the summer. I have to admit that the Kohler Magnum on my 310-8 runs real quite with the Rotella 15W40. Plus it has plenty of zinc and phosphorus.

BTW - Don't research too much about different oils. Your head will explode.

He is right on!

Rotella T is great for old motors. It has the zinc additive because it is mainly used in diesels. Look at diesels they run forever. Diesel oil is good! Modern engine oil is designed for new cars NOT 30++ year old gas engines.

Charlie

[Docwheelhorse 2,740]

I've been running synthetics in my splash lube Kohlers & Briggs for 25+ years and haven't had any trouble....

Just my .02

Tony