Still doesn't run

[Shuboxlover 474]

Well it has spark.....Wrong switch

NOW.....I still can't get it to run.

If I put a tad bit of gas in the cylinder it will let out a big fireball out of the muffler once or twice.

The fuel pump seems to be working, when I loosen the nut on the bowl of the carb, gas starts pouring out. I took apart the carb and cleaned it. The needle and seat seemed to look ok.

What now :USA:

[WH nut 553]

Try a new spark plug

[rmaynard 14,952]

Back to basics. There is a thread on static timing. Good reading.

http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/index.php?...l=static+timing

If you have gas, and you have spark, check the compression and the static timing.

There are only several basic things that have to be present to make an engine run.

1. proper gas/air mix

2. spark

3. compression

4. timing

If you have a way to check compression, do so. Even with ACR, you should be able to get a decent compression reading.

If you have gas, spark, compression, and the timing is correct, it should start.

Just my 2 cents worth.

Bob

[Kelly 1,028]

Check for compression, you said you get a big fireball out the exh. the tractor set for years and you said the muffler is shot if the exh. valve was open all those years it might be stuck or at least not closing all the way, If it was me I'd pull the head to see what shape the engine is in, and clean things up and install a new gasket, I've found most K series engine need one any way.

[Shuboxlover 474]

How much are they??? Do you know the Part#

[squonk 39,161]

Check for compression, you said you get a big fireball out the exh. the tractor set for years and you said the muffler is shot if the exh. valve was open all those years it might be stuck or at least not closing all the way, If it was me I'd pull the head to see what shape the engine is in, and clean things up and install a new gasket, I've found most K series engine need one any way.

Yes. A stuck exhaust will blow out fire like a torch. A leaking intake will blow the carb apart. Do what Kelly says. Pull the head!! :)

[Docwheelhorse 2,561]

Just remember to get a head gasket for a BATTERY IGNITION engine... not a MAGNETO!!!

Tony

[rmaynard 14,952]

If you have a K341S - 71141, the head gasket is a 45 041 17-S. Available online or from your local NAPA auto parts store (SME 4504117S) for about $14.00.

Bob

[Shuboxlover 474]

You guys are FREAKING amazing.....stuck exhaust valve.

I took the head off and there it was in all it's glory, standing straight up like a guard at Buckingham Palace, NOT MOVING. I lightly pushed on it and it popped down and then started working.

Do I need to do anything else other than clean things up a bit and install a new head gasket?

[rmaynard 14,952]

If you have the tools and the skill, I would remove the valve, clean the carbon from the valve stem. At the same time, check the valve spring to be sure that it is not broken. If the valve was stuck, there has to be a reason.

Bob

[Shuboxlover 474]

I would remove the valve, check the valve spring to be sure that it is not broken.

How do I do said procedure?

I am sure I have the skill, but the tools may be a different story?

If I let it set with the valve open for about a half hour, it will stick again.

What do you think is the issue?

[TT-(Moderator) 1,129]

I think you might need this:

http://www.asberry.net/files/TP-2379.pdf

[Shuboxlover 474]

I think you might need this:

Thanks TT

So if the valve spring is not broke, do you think dis-assembly, cleaning and reassembly will be o.k. then?

[Kelly 1,028]

I'm guessing you have a rust issue on the valve stem, and if not cleaned up it could ruin the valve guide, and make the engine use oil, pull the valve clean it, and you should be good, provided the engine is sound, install the new head gasket and be sure to retorque the head after about 10 to 20 min. of run time, let it cool first.

[Shuboxlover 474]

Weeeellllllllll.............ummmmmmmmmmmmm

Looks like I need a new exhaust valve now too, went to take it out and the d*** top popped right off. I undid the keeper and everything like the manual said, but it wouldn't come right out, so I gave it a little tug and POP!!!!!

It actually didn't look rusty at all, I don't know what was making it stick? will a lot of carbon build up do it, it had a fair amount, but nothing that I would say was waaaaay over the top.

If I wire brush everything (except the vavle seats and cylinder wall of course) what's the chance of me buying two new valves and the thing running decent? I'm not gonna need to grind the valve seats am I

I don't really want to sink a bunch of money in this thing. There is a guy at work that was looking for a bigger Kohler for his tractor puller. What do you think the motor is worth the way it sits?

[Brrly1 1,146]

Not Much. $50-$100 not much more. Heck you ain't got that much wrapped up in it yet . Personally spend a little, get a little bit more out of it . You have come this far. Thats not my decision. Good Luck. See Ya, Bye Burly

:)

[Kelly 1,028]

I'd fix it, if the seats look ok, you can just stick the valves in, but you should lap them at a minimum, that is turning back and forth with a little valve lapping compound on them, so they seal, as for value, pullers love the 16hp and if it is the 13 fin block, it is worth $50 by it's self, the heads bring $50+ crank in nice shape $40+ carb if a no. 30 $50+ starter $25+ you get the idea