Replacing steering bushing?

[SAM58 30]

I picked up a 1985 416-8 about a week ago. The steering has play in it.

Looking at the column I can see that the bushing is missing from the column.

what is the best way to get to it, does the steering wheel have to come off?

Where it goes through the steering post it only has a ring with a set screw, no bushing allowing the steering column to move up and down, side to side.

Not much, but I know over time it will get worse.

The steering wheel has a roll pin in the side and will not move. tried to put a split sleeve around the column, but the up and down movement brings it out.

Any advise from some of you professionals??

thanks

52 Views... No Replies?

thanks guys for all the help.

I have never had to take a steering wheel off.

I will figure it out.

THIS WOULD BE A GOOD TIME FOR A DELETE TOPIC OPTION.

[Kelly 1,028]

Well I just got in front of my puter, yes the wheel will have to come off, they can be one of the hardest things to do on these tractor soak it with PB blaster for a few days, use a roll pin punch it has a bump on the end to help center it when hitting it hard, the 300,400 series tractor are known for the upper dash to break right at the point the bushing sets, the bushing is a bronze bushing in the ones I've dealt with, and should have two flat sides to keep it from tuning, trying to remember all the steps in doing this, remove the steering wheel ( good luck) remove the batt., then the upper part of the dash will need to be removed, unhooking any parts hooked to it, like cables and switches, then the bushing will be right there, check the metal around the hole the bushing fits in I've welded a plate of heaver metal in and ground it out till the old bushing fit tight, painted and reinstalled everything, tight as new, this takes a few hours, first thing is to spray all bolts that need to come out with penetrating oil, then work on the roll pin in the wheel, when you get that, if the wheel will not come off ask there are a few ways to remove the wheel.

good luck keep us posted.

[Save Old Iron 1,563]

Sam,

something worth thinking about

PN# 109189 BEARING FLANGED

Our Price: $1.02

from Jack's

for that price, I might try slicing the bearing in half thru the diameter and then taking each half and run it up the steering shaft and lock them in place with the collar. There is certainly a "cob job" factor to this method but when the alternative is time, effort and then more effort to replace it "correctly" it may be worth a try. :thumbs:

[C-Series14 15]

I was thinking the same as SOI...

Probably no replies because those with a reply were not online. I had an idea but wanted to let some of the more experienced guys answer! :thumbs:

[Kelly 1,028]

If the thin metal is not worn or cracked at the hole like so many are, that would work.

[Save Old Iron 1,563]

if the metal is bad

then fab up a split collar for the split bushing

Attached Image

[SAM58 30]

pICS Thanks fellows, I guess you see my frustration....

Well anyway, I had soaked the column with AireKoil Penitrating fluid Sat.

Yesterday I drove the roll pin out and after looking it over, figured taking the top half of the dash off was the easiest way.

The metal is all good, and I found a steel bushing this morning at LOWE'S I think will work.

The previous owner had taken it to a Toro Dealer for repair, the bushing was left out whem the put it back together.

Now that I know how it comes apart, it's no big deal.

I have a product here at work that is used in the oilfield, called Copper Top Drill pipe compound. It protects metal and makes metal parts come apart easy.

So the steering wheel shaft is getting coated to get off later.

:omg:

[SAM58 30]

Sam,

something worth thinking about

PN# 109189 BEARING FLANGED

Our Price: $1.02

from Jack's

for that price, I might try slicing the bearing in half thru the diameter and then taking each half and run it up the steering shaft and lock them in place with the collar. There is certainly a "cob job" factor to this method but when the alternative is time, effort and then more effort to replace it "correctly" it may be worth a try.

I have checked around and no one has any in stock.

do you resale? if so do you have stock and take credit cards?

e-mail me, and maybe we can do something....

thanks

[Save Old Iron 1,563]

Sam,

I picked that part # off the following web site

http://www.jackssmallengines.com/

there is a "PARTS LOOKUP" area in the upper right corner of the screen that will allow access to all the parts you may need for your tractor. Look under "Toro Consumer" and then "Riding Products". Slide down the list of models until you find your 416-8 1985.

Getting the roll pin out of the steering shaft is 99.5% of the hardship involved in this repair. You seemed to breeze thru it. I'm about 2 for 4 on getting them out while the steering wheel is still on the tractor.

[SAM58 30]

[SAM58 30]

:thumbs: Man!!

I finally got a picture up.

[Duff 206]

52 Views... No Replies?

thanks guys for all the help.

Sam, I gotta jump in here as someone whose been with this site for a long, long time. This time of year a lot of guys are traveling, working outside, catching up on "honey do projects", and all manner of activities that keep us away from our computers. As dedicated a nut as I am, this afternoon is the first time I've visited the forum since last Thursday. With something over 3,300 members, 52 views isn't surprising - a lot of our newer members are, like I was for a long time, just reading and learning. Replies from those who might feel they have something to offer you by way of good advice are apt to be delayed for the reasons offered above.

I offer all this not to diss you, my friend, but rather to caution our membership that this isn't a chat room. Replies to some questions may be delayed for a variety of perfectly good reasons. Answers will come, that we can count on, though!

Best wishes to all,

Duff :thumbs:

[SAM58 30]

i UNDERSTAND...

THANKS