mattd860 162 #1 Posted July 20, 2010 I just picked up a 1978 Wheelhorse C-120 yesterday but there are some areas on the tractor that just don't look right to me especially when I compare my tractor with my C-101. First - The exhaust gets very very hot - much hotter than my C-101. The muffler on the C-120 is actually the same as the C-101 so can it possibly be too small for the 12hp motor on the C-120?? It gets so hot that the hood become too hot to touch near the muffler area. This does not happen with the C-101 and the hood stays cool to the touch. Also the muffler has nothing to bolt to on the bottom which brings me to my next question about engine mounts below he following 3 pictures... The engine is mounted very differently than the C-101. It is actually bolted right to the frame where the C-101 10hp engine is bolted to mounts suspended by bushings. Also the right side engine mount area doesn't even line up with the frame. However there are bolts on the bottom of the frame going up into the engine block so the right side of the block is definitely mounted to the frame, just not like the left side. Take a look at how my engine is mounted and then see how the C-101 engine is mounted. C-101 engine mounting: Maybe all this is normal difference between the C-101 and C-120 but I need some advice from some of you. Thanks!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 16,299 #2 Posted July 20, 2010 The C-101 has it's engine mounted in a cradle, and the muffler attaches to the cradle so that it doesn't shake around and break. The C-120 engine is mounted directly to the frame and the flange on the oil pan hangs over the side. You are correct, mounting bolts go up through the frame and into the bottom of the oil pan. The C-120 muffler does not attach at the bottom since the engine remains still. My B-100 has the same muffler as the C-120 and C-101 and depending on how close it is mounted to the hood, the hood does get hot to the touch. The best way to find out if the temperature is different is to use an infra-red thermometer or other temperature detection device, and check both. If the C-120 is hotter, it could be valve adjustment or timing, or carburetor adjustment, and any combination of the three. Also, I think that you are incorrect about the model year of the C-120. The last year it was made was 1977. Someone will correct me if I am wrong. Bob Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bo dawg 518 #3 Posted July 20, 2010 This is all normal, that's the difference between model changes. You may have something as simple as an adjustment like Bob said, but they do get hot. You might pull the engine shroud/cover off and make sure it's not plugged with anything like grass or maybe a mice nest. That could block it from ventilation adding to the heat :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tommy3horse 3 #4 Posted July 20, 2010 Hello and My '76 C-120 (recent barn find) also runs hot around the hood area. I am in the process of adjusting the carb, etc. The PO said that the motor was worn-out and tired plus getting hot, I found that it had a blown head gasket and needed a carb rebuild so far. It also had a cracked fuel tank, but Bob (rmaynard) helped me out with a good one, plus a new bushing. Thanks Bob! Good luck with yours! Tom :D Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mattd860 162 #5 Posted July 21, 2010 Thanks for all your help!!! Anyone know if the tiller and snow blower show here will fit my tractor? - http://newhaven.craigslist.org/gms/1784810644.html Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Arndts small engine repair 0 #6 Posted July 21, 2010 Hi and nice tractor :D Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Don1977 605 #7 Posted July 21, 2010 You have a 1978 C-121 at least the belt guard is. The engine has been changed to the C-120 style and you have a home made PTO bracket attached to the frame. From what I can see in your pictures. Give us a whole view of the tractor from both sides and some one can tell you for sure. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mattd860 162 #9 Posted July 21, 2010 So the tractor is not original from the factory??? When I look for parts do I need to specify C-121 or C-120? Hope I didn't make a mistake with this purchase but as long as I can get a plow, snow blower, and tiller for it as well as parts I should be ok I think. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kelly 1,033 #10 Posted July 21, 2010 You will be fine all atachments will fit and work, if you need engine parts use the spec. number off the engine if you need tractor parts use the ID off the tractor, you can get factory PTO brackets if you want to change them, and I think the muffler is a bit closer than it should be, you might try to turn it a little to clear the hood better. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
C-Series14 15 #11 Posted July 21, 2010 So the tractor is not original from the factory??? When I look for parts do I need to specify C-121 or C-120? Hope I didn't make a mistake with this purchase but as long as I can get a plow, snow blower, and tiller for it as well as parts I should be ok I think. The tractor is a 1978-1979 model. Does it have an ID tag? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mattd860 162 #12 Posted July 21, 2010 I will look for an ID tag later when I get home from work. Where are the ID tags usually found? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kelly 1,033 #13 Posted July 21, 2010 ID tag on that model, from sitting on the tractor left front of the dash tower look between the engine and tower down near the steering. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
C-Series14 15 #14 Posted July 21, 2010 All of mine are on the panel below the steering wheel...BUT most if not all of my left side panels DO have the holes in it for the ID plate!!! The easy way to remember the difference in years of the C-Series is the following... 1974-1977 gas tank under hood 1978-1979 gas tank under fender 1980-1984 FUNKY HOOD!!!!!! :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dobeleo 7 #15 Posted July 21, 2010 My 1986 312-A is mounted directly to the frame and off-set. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SAM58 30 #16 Posted July 21, 2010 Notice the axles sticking out of the hubs, most are flush with the end of the axles. Is this normal? :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MRM 4 #17 Posted July 21, 2010 looks like the hood does not fit right, in the pic it seems to be a bit short to latch to the dash Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mattd860 162 #18 Posted July 21, 2010 Notice the axles sticking out of the hubs, most are flush with the end of the axles. Is this normal? Hmm - didn't notice this until now. I will compare with the C-101 later when I get home. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mattd860 162 #19 Posted July 21, 2010 looks like the hood does not fit right, in the pic it seems to be a bit short to latch to the dash There is definitely something funky with the hood. When I close the hood, it actually bumps against a thin metal bar on the bottom near the hinges. This prevents the hood from closing all the way and leaves it resting about 1-2 inches from the normal position. I have to press down on the hood to get it to latch. Normally I wouldn't force something like this but that's how I got it and that's how the PO claims to have done it since he both the tractor years ago. I will take pictures of the thin bar that's preventing the hood from closing all the way later. What is the primary difference between the C-120 and C-121? wouldn't the C-121 also have a 12hp Kolher engine like I have? I also see there is no PTO brake installed. Should I remedy this asap or is it not too necessary. My C-101 has the brake but I doesn't provide too much drag against the PTO pulley anyways (but it does provide slight drag). Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MRM 4 #20 Posted July 21, 2010 the C-121 has the rubber mounts for the 12HP Kohler Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rickv1957 75 #21 Posted July 21, 2010 Going by your engine tin,motor appears to be a late 60s to early 70s model engine,Rick Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mattd860 162 #22 Posted July 21, 2010 I'm going to look over the whole machine later today and see if I can find model and/or serial numbers for both the tractor and engine and anything else I can find. Hopefully I can fully identify what I actually have and what I need to change to get this thing just as it was from the factory... aka perfect. I don't want a show tractor - I want a work tractor but I do want it performing and functioning as intended - no hackery. I drive an 1989 BMW every day to work but I still keep that think clean, stock, and running as best as I can. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
C-Series14 15 #23 Posted July 21, 2010 Couple things noticed that need attention...and get it back to normal. The deck drive belt needs routed in the pulley closest to the engine. Decals are wrong for that era tractor. Mule drive needs a cover. The hood thing is not a bog deal, some of mine ar tight, some are loose. Make sure you have the rubber bumpers on the bottom of the hood where it rests on the front attach-a-matic. Like mentioned before, the rear wheel hubs need to be flush with the end of the axle. As far as differences, not many. The big difference between a C-120 and a C-121 is the section below the dash down to the floorboards. C-121 is wider. Go to the photo gallery, look at the pics...you will see. I have a couple of my C-1X1's on there along with others... I am at work so I got to get back to work... :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MaineDad 87 #24 Posted July 21, 2010 Looks like an old Charger or Raider hood Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mattd860 162 #25 Posted July 21, 2010 Looks like I bought myself a real project. My wife will be very happy to hear this lol. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites