JUSS10 250 #1 Posted July 13, 2010 ok so the engine in my 854 needs a rebuild. it smokes and burns oil to the point that when I'm done mowing i need to top it off. that said, i know the right thing to do is rebuild it but in the past when i had engines that had blow by in the cylinders i just ran a thicker motor oil like 20-50. that said, being that its been around 90 everyday here and will be above 70 before i put the 854 away for winter (will use other tractor to plow with) can i get by by using a thicker oil to possibly slow down the blow by? once again i know it isn't the best option but the tractor runs great and i want to try and use it the rest of the summer season. thanks Justin Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 16,326 #2 Posted July 13, 2010 In a car engine, you have an oil pump that delivers oil to the various places needing lubrication. In the tractor engine, you have a slinger that just throws oil around. The thicker the oil is, the harder it is to sling and get to where it needs to go. I would stick with the 30 weight oil and keep my eye on the level until you have the chance to rebuild. Bob Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mavfreak 11 #3 Posted July 13, 2010 I really don't feel running thicker oil will make that much difference. The oiling system in these engines are an oil bath. A cup throws oil up onto the cylinder walls. A multi viscosity oil really won't get up to temp in these little engines to go to the high viscosity. So that being said by running a 20 w 50 in there is actually like running a strait 20. I would stick with the 30 and make sure you don't run it to low. As long as you don't run it out of oil it should be ok in my opinion but its just my opinion Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rickv1957 75 #4 Posted July 13, 2010 Dont think there is much you can do other than wht the others have said,Rick Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JUSS10 250 #5 Posted July 13, 2010 alright. guess I'll just keep topping it of till it stops running. thanks for the heads up everyone :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VinsRJ 723 #6 Posted July 14, 2010 It stops running or goes "KaBoom" :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
The Toolman 22 #7 Posted July 14, 2010 add a little STP to it....... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
linen beige 15 #8 Posted July 14, 2010 In a car engine, you have an oil pump that delivers oil to the various places needing lubrication. In the tractor engine, you have a slinger that just throws oil around. The thinner the oil is, the harder it is to sling and get to where it needs to go. I would stick with the 30 weight oil and keep my eye on the level until you have the chance to rebuild. Bob Very well said (assuming you meant to say "the THICKER the oil, the harder it is to sling around). The biggest problem with using a thicker oil in the K series Kohlers is the camshaft pin. A thick oil can't get all along it's length. That leads to some serious problems that can get costly quick. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Docwheelhorse 2,740 #9 Posted July 14, 2010 "A multi viscosity oil really won't get up to temp in these little engines to go to the high viscosity." I don't know that this is exactly true.... I did some experimenting in the past and saw oil temps in the 215--235 range on warm summer days. I would think that is actually warmer than a car engine would push the oil. I have run Mobil 1 15/50 in several of my Kohlers for several years and haven't had any oil related issues.... maybe its luck, maybe its OK. I would look for a product called De-Carb.... ---> http://www.valvtect.com/marineFuelAdditives.asp The product is sprayed into a running hot two or four stroke engine and then shut off and its allowed to sit for 1/2--3/4 of an hour. Then you restart the motor bring it up to full throttle and let it clean itself out and when done change the oil. I worked as a marine mechanic and have seen this product bring engines that had low compression, smoked and where basically not looking good back.... it works by cleaning the rings and grooves and getting them freed up to re-seat. It does work and I wouldn't be concerned about hurting the engine I have NEVER seen it finish off or otherwise destroy a motor. I have used it in my motorcycle, truck and boats and one Kohler all with noticeble improvement (No I don't sell the stuff... Just hapy I found a product that does what the can says ) Good Luck Tony Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 16,326 #10 Posted July 14, 2010 In a car engine, you have an oil pump that delivers oil to the various places needing lubrication. In the tractor engine, you have a slinger that just throws oil around. The thinner the oil is, the harder it is to sling and get to where it needs to go. I would stick with the 30 weight oil and keep my eye on the level until you have the chance to rebuild. Bob Very well said (assuming you meant to say "the THICKER the oil, the harder it is to sling around). The biggest problem with using a thicker oil in the K series Kohlers is the camshaft pin. A thick oil can't get all along it's length. That leads to some serious problems that can get costly quick. Thanks for pointing out the error. The brain was not in gear when I wrote that. You are correct. The THICKER the oil is what I meant to type. I have corrected the original post. Bob Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wingrider 21 #11 Posted July 16, 2010 Hey Justin I just bought a 876 that has a similar problem, I have read quite a bit about a old product called Seafoam that will do the same thing as the last reply here. I'm going to use the Seafoam on the 876 it says it has the results. They have two products one goes in the oil and the other you spray into the carb while its running to desolve the carbon in the motor, the other for the gas is suppose to prevent this from happening. There has been a lot on this subject here on this in the past. Good Luck with your problem. Wingrider Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SAM58 30 #12 Posted July 16, 2010 Yes, Seafoam is an great product, it does work. Marvel Mystery oil is good for long term storage, it lubricates and clenges to metals and does not run off completely. :D Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kelly 1,033 #13 Posted July 16, 2010 Take a day pull the motor apart and hone the cyl. and trow a new set of the cheapest rings you can find in it, cheap because they probably will ware to the cyl.'s shape faster, lap the valves, stick some new gaskets in it and should be good for a year or two. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ChevelleSSLS6 0 #14 Posted July 21, 2010 Yes, Seafoam is an great product, it does work. Marvel Mystery oil is good for long term storage, it lubricates and clenges to metals and does not run off completely. I'd pull the plug, add some marvel (a couple ounces) and let it sit for a day or two, then crank engine a couple times (to remove extra oil so you don't hydrolock ). Install plug and fire it up. It'll smoke like mad for a little bit but it'll clear in a couple minutes. Also adding a little ReStore (silver can stuff) works well to bring back a little comrpession. I add STP to any flat tappet engine I have (my Jeep, old mower engines (pre-plastic cam), musclecar...) The STP stuff has the zinc "zddp" stuff that keeps lifters from taking out cams.) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JUSS10 250 #15 Posted July 21, 2010 hmmm lots of suggestions. i use seafoam a lot on anything i have with an engine but are the seafoam products here different than the fuel additive that i am familiar with? I've read up on the "Restore" product but have never used it. may play around with some of these idea's. we"ll see, it runs fine for now and worse thing is it can take a little oil. i just keep topping it off. it will get pulled and it will get a rebuild. that said, where is the best place to get a good rebuild kit? i see kits all over ebay but are these any good? they seem cheap. i think you can get a kit with new piston and valves for somewhere around $70. anyone used these kits? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tranders 0 #16 Posted July 21, 2010 I get my rebuild kits from Napa. I've used Kohler kits and Napa brand with good results. Great thing about Napa is the parts are usually in the store within 24 hours. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JUSS10 250 #17 Posted July 21, 2010 do you have a part number on that kit? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ducky 1 #18 Posted July 22, 2010 what is the model of the engine ill look it up for u.or go to http://www.napaonline.com/ or your local napa store. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 16,326 #19 Posted July 22, 2010 How much better are the NAPA kits than the Stens/Rotary kits found on eBay? The eBay kits for a K241 are about $89.00 compared to the NAPA kits which are $204.00. Both kits contain the same items. Bob Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ducky 1 #20 Posted July 22, 2010 the napa part no. is 7-09721 dose not have the connecting rod. that pt no is 7-03852 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WH nut 553 #21 Posted July 22, 2010 I have used the EBay kits on several and never had a problem, About 80 bucks sounds right for your motor. I get mine form I think its one man small engines, ships same day her in two at the most. I have donme 4 so far and no problems Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
