Tired of Greene 0 #1 Posted July 1, 2010 Trying to get this 1976 D-160 running. I have no spark, the points look like they are brand new, but I have ordered the parts already to replace. I originally thought it was my coil which was 40,000 K on the ohm meter not 12600 to 15400 like described in the manual but I didn't check the part #. Someone must have switched it in the past from a 201157 to a 166-0804 and the new one checked out the same on the ohm meter( does this sound right?). So since I'm out 100 bucks I'm asking for help before I make anymore stupid decisions. Is this coil OK or do I need another one? Is there a way to check that the key switch is sending juice to the coil? should be 12 volts Right? across the + and - when the engine is cranking. And finally the book calls for champion H-8 plugs and I have read a lot of complaints on them, that's what I have now but is there a better option? Bosch or NGK or anything else you guys know about. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gene_S 93 #2 Posted July 1, 2010 Good luck... :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hoppy 0 #3 Posted July 2, 2010 clean the points with an emery board nail file. you will be suprised at how much comes off. if they look clean........clean them anyway for piece of mind. some newer points have a coating on them that should be removed when new. keep us posted. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JUSS10 250 #4 Posted July 2, 2010 with the key turned on you should have 12V across the coil. if not, start tracing the wires back to the ignition switch. actually don't check voltage across the coil as to get a complete circuit there it is determined by the position of the points and if they are closed. take a volt meter or test light and put one end on the pos side of the coil and the other ground to the engine block or better yet, the battery if you can reach it. if you got juice there, next check the points and make sure they are good. what i would do it shut off the ignition then turn the motor to a point where the points are closed, then connect your test meter or light. one end to the negative of the coil (wire coming from the points) then the other to the positive on the battery. if you get 12V or a light there then you know your points are closing. next would be to pull a plug and crank the engine with the body of the plug grounded to the engine block, if you have spark then its time to move to fuel system. if you get caught up somewhere, address the problem and try again. thats the methodical way that i go through this kind of thing. good luck! justin Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tired of Greene 0 #5 Posted July 2, 2010 Thanks guys, I'll try your suggestions and get back to you but thanks a lot for the detailed description. I am sure that I have no spark at the plug because I did try to pull it out and ground it to the block but I haven't messed with the points to much. I will check and any suggestions on the plugs? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jpmcleod 4 #6 Posted July 3, 2010 NAPA sells a spark wire with a glass center allowing you to visually see the spark. It plugs in between the coil and spark plug. Saves grouding the plug and getting shocked. I am like the rest. if no spark at the points, no spark at the plug. I take a small emory file to the points and have solved several "no spark" problems. The points have to have a constant "power" from the ignition switch. Take a test light and make sure there is power to the points. I wish you luck. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ducky 1 #7 Posted July 3, 2010 NAPA sells a spark wire with a glass center allowing you to visually see the spark. do u have the part # for the plug that is see threw Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Buzz 502 #8 Posted July 3, 2010 NAPA sells a spark wire with a glass center allowing you to visually see the spark. do u have the part # for the plug that is see threw Just tell them you want an inline spark plug tester. If they don't know what you mean print out and show them this picture from Harbor Freight. Better yet, if you have a Harbor Freight nearby get it there or order online: http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-mo...ecker-4424.html Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rickv1957 75 #9 Posted July 3, 2010 Are your points gapped correctly and do they open and close as engine as turns over,Rick Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
