dyt4000 2 #1 Posted July 1, 2010 Well, after 40+ years of service, one of my tierods fell apart whilst I was mowing. Guess they don't make anything that lasts anymore... I decided to make my own using heim joints. I got online with McMasters.com and found the ones I wanted...greaseable. Based on what I read on the internet, I decided to use 3/8x24 ends. I really thought this would be a little "light" but let me tell you, 3/8 steel rod at 7-8" long is stronger than you would think! I picked up the steel rod at the local hardware store. Anyway, these are the ends, rods and cones I used... Now, I don't own any real steel working tools...just a bench grinder...and my thread kit is from Harbor Freight...please keep this in mind before criticizing me. I cut the rod to a length of 7.5 inches and turned down the end so that my thread tool would fit...GO SLOW! It's easier to grind more off...you can't grow it back!(don't ask me how I know...lol) Turn it as consistently as you can while against the wheel... Then put your thread tool on it and work it slow...then chase it back down again to clean it up... After doing both ends, you end up with a finished product... and then install it! I'm plenty happy with the end result...in the future, I just need standard heim joints! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tmix 34 #2 Posted July 1, 2010 Your right by the time they wear out we'll all be dead an GONE Good job on the tie rods tmix Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
qd-16 14 #3 Posted July 1, 2010 Cool! What was the total cost? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Save Old Iron 1,571 #4 Posted July 1, 2010 Excellent post. What are the 3/8 "cones" for ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JimD 3,347 #5 Posted July 1, 2010 Great job on the tie rods! :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SAM58 30 #6 Posted July 1, 2010 Nice job, although the old ones are repairable.... My old Raider 12 still has the original tie rods, i have repaired two of them by putting in a vise and using a flat end punch, bend the metal back around the ball, but your new ones look much nicer. Cones? how much did you have in the ones you made? If you have a Ridgid Pipe Threader Model 00-R or a 12R with a 3/8" NPT head it is much easier to thread solid rod. we use that kind of rod all the time in the Rod pump repair shop at tne NOV office i manage. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dyt4000 2 #7 Posted July 1, 2010 I have about $40 all told. The cones go above and below the joint to allow it to fully articulate at the wheel end. info on the heim joints... 4444T211 (Same as 4444T21) High-Strength Ball Joint Rod End 3/8"-24 Rh Female Shank, 5100 Pound Load Capacity In stock at $4.93 Each http://www.mcmaster.com/#heim-joints/=7rr3n1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rickv1957 75 #8 Posted July 1, 2010 Tie rods look great,nice work there!,Rick Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tranders 0 #9 Posted July 1, 2010 Those turned out nice. Ingenious. :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CasualObserver 3,411 #10 Posted July 1, 2010 You could also use these.... you don't need the grease-able ones. I've never had an issue with them on my Cub. If you get the ones with the shank in them already that's one less thing to mess with. Do a search for the word heim and change the date to older than 30 days... there have been a couple long discussions on these joints in the past. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dyt4000 2 #11 Posted July 1, 2010 The only problem that could happen with those is the stud might either be too short or too long. With the open ones, you chose the bolt length...and a little grease never hurt...lol Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
landsurveyor 2 #12 Posted July 1, 2010 I sell these in the UK: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Wheelhorse-Wheel-hor...=item2ead9831c9 (sorry to the mods for ebay link!) I have had a good verbal feedback from customers so far, I can find out shipping to the US if anyone needs any. Am going to make some up for Bolens too in the near future. Your look great though, guess it comes down to the easiest, and best value place to get the parts. Simon Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Duff 206 #13 Posted July 1, 2010 I don't think there's an issue with an eBay link to a member's own products. That's a nice looking setup you've got there, Simon! dyt4000, nice fab! Like what you did! Jason, I used the joints you picture to make my own tie rods. I used threaded SS rod stock cut to length to allow for ample adjustment, then put an aluminum sleeve over the threaded rod to dress it up. I was able to get aluminum tubing .001 undersize so it's a very tight slip fit over the rod and doesn't rattle. Everything came from McMaster-Carr. Clever bunch of folks around here! Duff :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dyt4000 2 #14 Posted July 1, 2010 Your look great though, guess it comes down to the easiest, and best value place to get the parts. Yeah, but it was fun to do and I can say I made them and not Simon... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
linen beige 15 #15 Posted July 4, 2010 Those do look nice, but I gotta ask. Did you know replacements are still available from Toro. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
B-8074 20 #16 Posted July 5, 2010 Here"s a set I made today, all i need to do is weld the nut to the end of the tube. Now I'll be able to do alittle front end adWheel Horse Fanjusting. :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 43,842 #17 Posted July 5, 2010 Broke the drag link on my 210-H. Went to a tractor supply and got a ball joint end and a bolt. Welded the bolt to the broken rod after cutting it and installed the ball joint. Cost $8.00 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
