Torino 14 #1 Posted June 23, 2010 I read the manual and still do not quit understand how to move the points. There has to be pictures of how to do this somewhere but I can't seem to find any. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 15,964 #2 Posted June 23, 2010 There are 4 screws on the points. 2 that mount it to the block, one that the wire attaches to, and one that is used to tighten the points in place after you have adjusted them. The one that is used to tighten is also located near a slot that you can put a screwdriver in. With that screw loosened enough to move the points, and the engine flywheel turned so that the points are open, place your screwdriver in the slot and turn it one way or the other until you have achieved a gap of .020. Tighten the screw and you are done. If you need anymore info, email me at rmaynard@qis.net I wll give you my phone number and you can call me. I will walk you through it. Bob Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Docwheelhorse 2,689 #3 Posted June 23, 2010 Hi--you rotate the flywheel until the points open.... then you take a flat blade screwdriver and you will see a notch in the top of the points. By SLIGHTLY loosening the screw that holds the points in place (NOT the two mounting screws) you can stick the screwdriver and "nudge" the ponts open or closed and with a feeler gauge set them to .020. When they are set you tighten the screw and you should be all set. Here are two pics... one with the screwdriver in place and one just showing the notch... the screw facing you just below and left of the screwdriver is the one that holds the gap in place. Tony Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rick 246 #4 Posted June 23, 2010 As I have posted before, .020 gap isn't always the optimum setting. You guys keep on trucking, I am done trying to help teach the way Kohler intended the points to be set. Good Luck to all...................... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Docwheelhorse 2,689 #5 Posted June 23, 2010 Hey Rick.... instead of scaring the guy who now thinks maynard and I are doing it wrong why don't you explain what your talking about... I have been setting Kohler points to .020 for 25 years and haven't had any trouble yet. Tony 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rueger-99 0 #6 Posted June 24, 2010 I quess this is what Rick is talking about. I'll have to try it some time. http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/index.php?...=0entry152805 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 15,964 #7 Posted June 24, 2010 As I have posted before, .020 gap isn't always the optimum setting. You guys keep on trucking, I am done trying to help teach the way Kohler intended the points to be set. Good Luck to all...................... .020 may not always be exactly right, but 99% of the time it is pretty darned close enough. Bob Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
linen beige 14 #8 Posted June 24, 2010 The feeler gauge method is indeed a good place to start. But checking that setting, and fine tuning it as needed with a timing light is even better, and much easier than the test light method. Increase the gap to advance the timing, decrease it to retard the timing. There is one other detail that bears mentioning. It is important that the point contacts close square to and centered on one another. If adjustment of this angle/centering is needed the "movable" (left side of points in Tony's pic.s) side of the points can be bent as required to match them up. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Torino 14 #9 Posted June 30, 2010 1969 Electro 12. Checked points and could not even see them open. Set them at 20 and rechecked. Since I have done this the throttle is really sensitive. Before I had to pull the throttle out about 2 inches to get full throttle. Now it is about 1/2 and inch and it you move it say 1/8 the rpms will go up or down about 1000rpms. It is backfiring some and when you put a load on it, it will bog down alot. I reset the carb and it still back fires. The carb was just cleaned and the fuel pump, lines and filter changed. Here is a video. http://s169.photobucket.com/albums/u218/to...nt=SUNP0019.mp4]]My Webpage http://s169.photobucket.com/albums/u218/to...nt=SUNP0018.mp4]]My Webpage Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rick 246 #10 Posted July 1, 2010 Hmmmmmmmmm, wonder what is wrong? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Torino 14 #11 Posted August 24, 2010 OK, finnaly got back around to this problem. Took of the motor shroud and can not find the timing marks. I have looked and looked, sanded and still can not see them. I was thinking...there is a hole in the ?blower? and was wondering it someone had one of these engines apart they could tell me the distance from the hole to the timing marks and I will just make my own mark. http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u218/to...-24-10_1758.jpg Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Buzz 502 #12 Posted August 24, 2010 You might want to check this out, complete with pictures, on how to do static timing. Has a picture of the "hole". http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/index.php?...=0entry169156 It's possible that you need to readjust your governor also. Page 6.27 in the Kohler manual. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VinsRJ 723 #13 Posted August 25, 2010 I've always set to 20 and went with it, Ive had no issues. But if a problem continues this is a great method to dial it in. Thanks for the link. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Torino 14 #14 Posted August 25, 2010 I was talking about the hole in the picture. The problem is I can't find the S on the fly wheel. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trouty56 567 #15 Posted August 25, 2010 The letters 'S' and 'T' are behind the starter teeth and are tough to see. I have a K341 apart and just looked. Easier to take the shroud off. Look for an obscure line on this area of the flywheel and spray some carb cleaner on it. If it is the 'T' then look a couple inches clockwise on the flywheel for another line. On the carb side of the engine there is a horizontal line cast into it. I figure this is to line the 'S' up with once you find it instead looking through the hole. Maybe someone will correct this statement. Since I found the letters I'm going to paint them so I can see them in the future. Even cleaned they are hard to see!!! Those holes you are talking about are drilled to balance the flywheel and have nothing to do with the timing marks. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Torino 14 #16 Posted August 25, 2010 "Those holes you are talking about are drilled to balance the flywheel and have nothing to do with the timing marks." I know, but I thought if they where in the same place on all of the engines I could use it as a reference point. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
linen beige 14 #17 Posted August 29, 2010 I thought if they where in the same place on all of the engines I could use it as a reference point. They are NOT in the same place on every flywheel. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites