C-120 Parts are falling off!

[runrider 0]

Mowed today. Passing by an area that I just mowed, I see a part lying in the grass... looks like a brake pad? See the pic below. Everything seemed to work o.k. still, but I didnt press the brakes after this.... which is tough b/c of the hills. I broke it in half by accident, so I'll need a new one.

1) What is it?

2) Where can I get another one?

3) How do I find out how to install a new one?

4) What happens if I mow without it?

5) Is my brake supposed to engage when I depress the clutch?

[dgjks6 8]

I assume it is an 8 spd tractor?

Then its the liner for your brake. glue it back on. don't use your brake until you put it back on.

The clutch pedal on the left moves a pulley which stops and motion to the transmission. If it is in gear it will stop - but not really.

The brake is the other pedal which actually stops the transmission.

You can also buy a new lining or a complete new brake pad.

I would start by putting blocks in front on the front tires and jacking up the rear of the tractor. Then remove the left rear wheel and you will see the brake and where this part goes. You may be able to glue on both pieces and not get a new one. I'll let someone with more experience chime in here.

Nedd the model number or year to get you a part number but a lot of the horses use part number 9593.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Wheel-Horse-Brake-Band...=item4aa18e78a1

or

http://cgi.ebay.com/New-Wheel-Horse-Brake-...=item4cf00e0b3b

but lets get your model number to be sure

[rickv1957 75]

You can get a brake band easily,Rick

[runrider 0]

ID No. 61-12K801-03004 309

1976 8-speed c-120

Thanks - your response was just what I was looking for. I'm a total rookie so I need a little more help though.

The band I have is broken in half - I probably should replace. How do I tell if I need just the pad vs. the whole assembly?

[MikesRJ 558]

A member here, RMaynard, sells replacement pads. You can email him here:

http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/index.php?showuser=2379

[dgjks6 8]

Take the left rear wheel off and look at it. It is only a few bolt and pretty straight forward. Start the process and take some pics and post them.

As long as everything is not completely rusted you canprobably just glue on a new pad and adjust it. No more than a couple hours work.

I searched the site looking for pics. If I find some I will link them.

[rmaynard 16,344]

Thanks guys for posting my eBay links and for mentioning that I do have the replacement linings.

dgjks6 - If you are coming to the WHCC show, and you can bring your old brake band with you, I will install a new lining in it for you.

If you have any questions on how to do it yourself, just email me and I can give you my cell phone number.

Bob

rmaynard@qis.net

[runrider 0]

All fixed! Hopefully it stays... I used general purpose sil 200 silicone to glue the two halfs of the pad back to the brake band. I couldnt get the brake band off because one of the bolts wouldnt budge, and the one that did budge broke right off. The brake band didnt seem to want to come off, so i figured maybe it will just stay where it is. I set the brake to clamp the pad to the band while the glue dried overnight, and I drove around for a few minutes today after work - brakes seem to work fine. Lets just see how this works as a long term solution though....

Thanks for your help everyone, this forum is great. I probably wouldnt have even bought the thing if I didnt know there are tons of friendly WH-heads out there. Thanks!!

[rueger-99 0]

Silicone is a sealer and really has no adhesion strength...I would have used some type of epoxy or contact cement. Ask at your auto parts store, they should know what to use. :thumbs:

[runrider 0]

I used silicone at the suggestion of members here. It seems to be working for now.... I'll keep you updated :thumbs:

[Save Old Iron 1,571]

Silicone does have a high coefficient of friction. This is a desirable characteristic when two items should not be permitted to slide across each other / brake band to brake material.

To prove that - take two panes of glass - lay a sheet of silicone between them and try to slide one glass plate over the other - their not going anywhere.

Silicone can flex slightly with the brake band (the reason why the first adhesive failed and allowed the pad to come free).

Silicone is also resistant to high temperatures in the brake environment and is waterproof.

Putting in a small brass rivet in the brake pad area prior to contact with the brake drum would not be a bad idea if your mowing on severe slopes and your health and safety depends on those brakes !!

[runrider 0]

Putting in a small brass rivet in the brake pad area prior to contact with the brake drum would not be a bad idea if your mowing on severe slopes and your health and safety depends on those brakes !!

where exactly should the rivet go?

[runrider 0]

Still waiting to hear about that rivet. How should I rivet the brake to keep it from coming out? Anybody else think this is a good idea? I have a riveter, never used it though.

[buckeye 5]

is it worth it? if you use the machine on a steep slope, would you want a ? in your head as to weather the breaks will work? i never tried to rivet them, just wondering if it would cause it to crack under extreme heat or extreme braking. they are not that expensive when it is a safety issue.

my .02 cents :thumbs:

[runrider 0]

New brake band is $50, which I think is rather steep, considering the brakes seem to operate just fine with my silicone fix.

[runrider 0]

update.

1 year later... silicone still holding strong.

:hide:

[Save Old Iron 1,571]

update.

1 year later... silicone still holding strong.

Flexibility, high temp tolerance and high weather resistance

probably last another 25 years

epoxy might have fissure cracks by now :hide:

[rmaynard 16,344]

update.

1 year later... silicone still holding strong.

And, if you use epoxy and ever need to replace the pad at a later time, good luck getting the residue off. Silicone is still my adhesive of choice.