Need hitch cable linkage advise.

[Pirate 0]

After looking at a Toro, sleeve hitch instruction manual, I saw there was a hanging lever, that the rear end of the cable attached to. The lift chain attached to the lever.

So I started collecting materials to make the lever. Now I see a tractor, with the lift cable coming out of the tube, and directlly to the hitch.

I'm not using orig parts, and wondered if the lever was needed.

So, WH Gods, what think?

Thanks again

[sorekiwi 761]

What tractor are we talking about? :D

[Pirate 0]

My tractor is a 414-8

The picture of the hitch cable without the lever under the seat, is a B-80 shown in a recent post.

The lever I'm talking about is part of a shaft that pivots under the seat, and the lever hangs down.

The only advantage I see, is the increase in mechanical advantage. Less lifting force needed.

The one on the B-80 is connected to a slot hitch. The manual with pictures is for a sleeve hitch. Could that be why?

[145Automatic 7]

I have a rear lift arm on a 312 and it works well for rear attachments with the old style slot hitch. I have never tried to hook a cable streight to the hitch. The supplied cable would not be long enough. The attached pict shows the whole rear lift arm assembly. They can be hard to find, and people seam to be proud of them if you do fine one. I believe the only pieces fo the assembly still available from TORO is the cable and bushings. I am in the process of drawing the arm on CAD to try and fabricate one. If you would like I could send you the drawing. It may take a while because its on my work computer and I havn't had much time to work on "government projects" lately.

Attached Image

[HankB 16]

I believe the only pieces fo the assembly still available from TORO is the cable and bushings.

I bought an adapter kit for an older tiller (2-1257) to fit to my 314-H. The kit included the rock shaft but no bushings. I can't recall if it included the chain. I found bushings that fit (with a little shortening) along with C-clips at the local hardware store. I also purchased the guide tube required for the Hydro from a dealer out east. (Dave's Tractor World IIRC - maybe Pristows) so it was available.

I think the rock shaft would be easy to fab if you had proper tooling to make the groove for the C-lips.

I tried to make a guide tube from a piece of 3/8" brake line and after spending a couple hours trying to bend and fit it in, I ordered the part. It's a tight fit on the hydro and has to be done just right. I think you might have better luck bending your own guide tube for the -8.

[Pirate 0]

145 Automatic,

The picture in the manual showed the lever and shaft with notches in the front side to adjust the chain. The chain had a long last link.

The on in your picture shows a different attachment to the chain.

Which ever I fabricate, it will have holes and cotter pins to hold the shaft in. (no lathe) Maybe an orig. will come my way in the future.

[rickv1957 70]

I have a NOS kit complete in original box if you are interested,Rick

[145Automatic 7]

I have one like my picture, it was originally of a C series. I believe they changed to the notches later. I believe they are interchangable provided you have or can fabricate the bigger chain link. It seams that some were I saw that the rear lift arm for tiller is differnt than for other attachments. Can somone else confirm this please. Pirate, I'm with you on the pins insted of clips much easier to fabricate when a lathe is not available. I'm still woking on the drawing didn't get a chance to set at my desk today.

[HankB 16]

The tiller upgrade kit I mentioned earlier includes the rock shaft pictured above. The tiller manual shows the other style with multiple notches. I suspect that the difference may relate to two factors.

1) The lift point is relocated on the tiller for more modern tractors (probably the ones with the fuel tank under the seat.)

2) There is adjustability on the relay lever which is driven by the hydraulic cylinder on my 314-H (and probably the lift lever on the -8 models) that makes the adjustment at the rear unnecessary.

[Pettybilt 3]

145 Automatic, When you get that drawing done i would'nt mind a copy. I'm new to Wheel Horses, and this would explane why my tiller is so hard to lift, LOL. I Just ran a long cable to the tiller and then through a pully and back to the frame , like sort of a ****** block to ease the load. Anyway if you get the drawing done soon I could make one for myself and Pirate also. Don't look like much to it, should be able to find the material in the scrape bin at work.

[Pettybilt 3]

145 Automatic, I'm a DA, forgot to say that in exchange for the drawing i would make this for you also, if you like.

Just let me know

Thanks, Doug