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hcminis

Suburban 550 - Great news

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hcminis

BAD news....the K121 is giving me HUGE troubles. Since this isn't the original motor the pulley location is way off which means the OEM belt won't work. Therefore, any belt cover won't work either. Now I am really upset because the tractor I've always wanted can't be used. Don't know how or if the PO were able to use this tractor. The grinding is bad to get it in to gears. Wish I had or could locate the original engine or one that will work along with the belt guard. Might even be willing to trade this great running K121 for a great running original motor and belt guard.

At a HUGE loss...any help would be greatly appreciated.

This is a big let down for me today. Hope there is a solution to this because it sure looks good all clean.

Dirty....

DSC02472.jpg

Clean....

DSC02516.jpg

Thanks

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wallfish

Can you post a close up pic of the pulleys?

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hcminis

John

Photobucket is doing maintenance. Will post the one I have with me and will get a few more this evening.

Will also take a picture of the OEM belt next to the one that is currently on the W.H. I can't even get the OEM belt around the motor pulley to the transmission pulley let alone putting the idler in the mix.

Thanks

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hcminis

DSC02470.jpg

DSC02473.jpg

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VinsRJ

There are always issues with these old units. Don't let this get you down, set a plan to get it where you want. If that means replacing the motor then thats what it takes. You'll be able to sell the one on it now. Good luck.

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wallfish

Looking at the pics, it appears that the pulley location is not that far off from original. It looks like the belt guard would fit.

401guard.jpg

Here are a couple of pics of the belt guide I was trying to explain. Very simple to make and should get you going. Make 2 and install on top and bottom about 1/8 to 1/4 inch away from the belt when it is tight.

MVC-003F-3.jpg

beltguide.jpg

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hcminis

John, thank you so much. There is hope....haha

Yes, after looking at some pictures the engine pulley in your pictures is directly above a hole in the frame which is the same (I think) as mine. That would lead me to believe the pulleys are in the correct position. Therefore, the OEM belt might be incorrect or mislabeled. Will check that this evening also.

Next question, is there a way to measure the length of the rod size? Also, the length of the rod sticking out or should I just make a good judgment call and get them close. I did notice a bolt in the block where your pictures shows the little finger clutch but thought it might be a plug. Hopefully that is the bolt needed for the lower finger clutch. Will have to check the top but assume that it should be mounted below the belt but come up and over the top?

Thanks again for you help. Greatly appreciated.

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wallfish

I would make sure you have the correct size belt, pulleys and look for a belt guard to solve your problem correctly.

In the meantime, you can just estimate the size and adjust them by spinning on the bolt. It doesn't need to be an exact science, just support and guide the belt. Your motor will have 4 threaded holes that you can use to mount them. I would use the lower left and the upper right holes. Adjust them to about 1/4" from the belt when it is tight.

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hcminis

Will check this evening. The OEM belt I purchased doesn't seem to be long enough.

Just need to find the guard. Are these little brackets used with the guard or are there some incorporated with the guard?

Thanks again for the help.

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wallfish

No, they are just a way to guide the belt if you don't have the guard. The guard itself will guide the belt so it doesnt catch on the pulley. The belt just needs to be held in a "loop" that is a little bigger than the pulley groove. Without anything supporting the belt, like you have, the belt drops into the pulley groove and spins.

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puddlejumper

Also looking at your pics it appears your clutch peddle may traveling to far back in the unclutched position. Adust rod so idler is barely or not touching belt at all. Mine with clutch engaged pedal stands straight up maybe even leans a little forward.

Dont give up its worked in some shape or form for 50 years and you can make it work again. :D

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hcminis

Well, got home and took some more pictures. Put the OEM belt on but was so tight that pushing the pedal didn't do much. However, it did make the pedal tilt forward as puddlejumper referred to. Something still isn't right because if the pedal is pushed then it should give the belt enough slack to slip. However, think the pulleys are in the correct location. Maybe someone has put different pulleys on? The two holes that wallfish referred to using the finger clutches will be used. They both are tapped and one even had a bolt that appears to have been used for a finger clutch.

I had to get a screw driver out to take the belt off. Really conflustered now......

Here are some more pics.

DSC02533.jpg

DSC02534.jpg

DSC02535.jpg

DSC02536.jpg

DSC02538.jpg

DSC02539.jpg

DSC02540.jpg

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The Toolman

Ever think about just buying a 1/2 or 1 inch longer belt than the goodyear thats on it?

If I remember my belt #'s right from years ago, that goodyear belt is 29 1/2 inchs long.

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hcminis

Ronnie, my thinking was the belt originally and that is why I purchased the OEM :D belt which is a P/N 1569 and 28.95" long. BUT, when I got home and it took a lot to get in on lead me to believe there were other problems. Took a screwdriver to get the OEM belt back off. :USA: When the Goodyear belt is on and the brake pedal is pushed down the belt is loose and looks like it will come off but still spins and catches the transmission pulley which won't allow any shifting without grinding. So, my next step it to make the two finger clutches (rod brackets) as mentioned by John to see if that will work. If that doesn't work then ....well....I don't know what will be next. :D

Will get pictures of the OEM belt on this evening. Hope to get the steel rod and the right bolts to get the little brackets on as well.

Fingers crossed.....lil thing is driving me crazy.... :wh:

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The Toolman

You really need a pic of one that is put together right to really see whats going on here.

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wallfish

Part of the problem may be with the brake band adjustment since the old belt has probably stretched out some. Loosen the brake band adjustment nut all the way, which will allow you to install the OEM belt. Install the little belt guides and make adjustments so the belt stops turning when you push the pedal. Then adjust the brake band to lock on the drum just a little bit after the belt stops turning.

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hcminis

John, brake band is all the way out. The trouble was getting the OEM belt around the motor and transmission pulleys. Just didn't seem long enough. The NAPA belt seems plenty long enough.

Ronnie, yes it would help to have a picture of the belt and pulleys. Every picture I have seen is to far off or had the guard on.

Will mess with it some more this evening and see what I can do. Sucks being at work and not home playing.....lol

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puddlejumper

I am 99 % sure I put a 29 inch belt on mine and it done exactly as you just mentioned ( seemed plenty loose Except hung just enough to cause gears to grind. It was definetly best choice between the 28,29,and 30 inch belts I had. So I put on the twenty nine started the tractor clutched but in gear. drove it around 5minutes noticed a definite improvement So I hooked it to a immoveable object and let it set and dig for 30 seconds and it has shifted fine every since and does not slip when in gear. I am assuming I (retrained or erased the memory in the belt from Bein :D g in its package.

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puddlejumper

OH, And 5 minutes later I told my son to watch this took it out in the street and dumped the clutch NOT A GOOD IDEA because the back of your head hits the pavement while your trying to keep your treasure from getting all bent up.

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hcminis

Genius is the only word that comes to mind for :D:USA: John (wallfish)

I installed four instead of two of the little finger clutches (steel rod brackets) Couldn't get two to work good so just did four.

Here is what she looks like now. (watch videos at the end)

DSC02543.jpg

Here it is working

The best one of all.....

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Horse'n Around

Thats a great looking tractor, Im glad that you stuck with it and got it figured out. That video of your little boy driving it is absolutely priceless. I bet he wants one of his own now doesnt he?

That video reminds me of my sons first MX race.He was 7 racing the peewee class on a PW50,parents are allowed to go on the track to help when the fall over. help them go up the face of big jumps etc and generally just cheer on their kids. I was running around the track and taking pictures, the only problem is he was having so much fun with the photo ops, he would look at me and smile big instead of watching the track,What can I say hes a ham :USA: Now hes a 24 yr old ham :D

Great job on your tractor,maybe your little boy will let Dad use it from time to time too :wh:

John

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wallfish

I don't think that's the word. This is not my idea, just see it on alot of small motor applications. Glad to see it got you going.

Next thing you might want to do is move that exhaust pipe. That looks like it'll hurt with one little slip of the leg. Look at the pics in the gallery for the way it is supposed to go. Out of the motor to the front of the tractor. Cheap easy fix for the piece of mind it'll have.

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hcminis

Yup, going to purchase the pipe today for the exhaust. Wanted to get it actually moving first. After that the deck will be cleaned, blades sharpened, and put back on. Don't know how it will actually operate. Feels a little tight...

Next will get the duals mounted. Have the specs to get the adapters made.

Then, blade. Have the parts to custom build a blade.

Thanks again for the help.

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rickv1957

Glad to see you got her going! :D Rick

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Coadster32

Genius is the only word that comes to mind for John (wallfish)

Never met him in person I see. :D

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