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SteveF

WheelHorse 212-6 1988 Won't Start

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SteveF

Anyone,

My 1988 WheelHorse 212-6 has been running faithfully for the past 13+ years. Now it won't start. I've charged the battery, replaced the spark plug with identical model/type even though the old one looked fine, filled the tank with fresh gas, but it won't start. I just had to replace the ignition switch since it was worn and I was lucky to be able to turn off the tractor the previous week.

The engine tries to turn strongly so I'm nearly certain it's not the battery. While it's always been a little tricky to start it having to play with the choke at various levels, I usually get it started within a few minutes.

Other than the ignition switch, I haven't changed anything else prior to it last starting. Any ideas what I might try to check next??? :D

Thanks in advance for any replies.

SteveF

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Indy w h

Does it have spark????

Indy

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hoppy

if it has good spark then id be looking at your fuel system. have a fuel pump? if so unplg line from pump going to carb and turn the engine for a few cranks. if fuel shoots out the line you know your pump is good. when was the last time the carb was cleaned?

take the bowl off, check your float, needles, etc. if its cranking good and you have good spark my guess is fuel system issue. especially if you have to play with the choke/throttle to get it to start and it should not take a "few minutes" to get running.

my horse will fire right up on the 1st crank of the key. thats how a machine should start. we will get you fixed right! try cleaning the carb and check your pump and get back to us.

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SteveF

Indy w h / hoppy,

Thanks for the speedy replies. These are all good suggestions. I will check for fuel pump issues and for spark this Saturday.

I've never cleaned the carburator... :D I know...I know....should have probably cleaned it long ago. I'll see if I can tear it apart on Saturday.

How exactly can I check to see if it has "spark"? Since it sounds like it's going to turn over but never does, I'm assuming that I likely have spark. I'm kind of leaning towards the fuel issues the more I ponder the dilemma. I should also add a fuel filter while I'm at it since I never had one on this unit. :USA:

Thanks again and I'll post here to keep everyone up on what worked and what didn't.

SteveF

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rickv1957

To check for spark, remove plug,attach to plug wire and ground plug to head,then while cranking,you should then see plug fire or not,Rick

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Buzz

Other than the ignition switch, I haven't changed anything else prior to it last starting.

When you replaced the ignition switch did you get it from your Toro dealer? It should be Toro part # 111215 or its replacement # 103991. Stens makes an exact replacement # 430662. If you bought one that looked like the old one but isn't Toro or has a different part number, that may be your problem. It could be wired differently internally. If that's the case, and you still have the old switch, reinstall it. If the tractor starts that's your problem, get the right switch and you're set to go. If you did get the right switch........ well we eliminated the switch as the problem.

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hoppy

13+ years without a carb cleaning.............. :D tell me you drained the tank every year and ran the machine out of gas or treated your fuel when the tractor sat for periods of time? if not then by the grace of god has your machine been running this long.

engines are pretty simple if you brake it down into a few "departments".................

1. spark...............no sparky no runny. easy way to check this is unscrew plug from motor. take plug and put back onto wire. position the plug so that the head is touching (grounded) to a piece of steel. head bolt? turn the motor over. if you see sparks when you turn the key..............move to step #2.

2. compression..............cheater test. while plug is out of hole put your thumb over the hole and turn the key. what you should feel is air pushing out that hole. should almost pop your thumb off the hole. if it doesnt or you do not feel much get a real tester and or have it checked. no compression..........no runny.

3. fuel.........if your machine wont run but you have done ok with #1 and 2...............take off your air filter assy and anything else that may be getting in the way.open your choke and throttle and spray some gas into the carb. then try starting your engine. if it starts and runs(then dies quickly) id bet my paycheck you have a fuel delivery problem. so that means.........go through it all until you find the problem. line clogged? fuel filter? fuel pump? carb good and clean? could be a bad float, stuck needle, clogged passageway, etc, etc.

no fuel...............no runny.

break the motor down into these categories and it make it abit easier to handle. i used to be scared to work on gas motors in fear "i couldnt fix it" or "id screw it up worse". well i put those thoughts away and went at it. did one, then another, and another and before i knew it i was fixing others stuff and now i love tinkering with anything that has a motor in it. grab some tools a manual and go at it. take your time and ask questions. alot to learn from guys here.

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Irv

You say it "tries to turn strongly". Does that mean it's not turning over? If not, then it's either a battery or a starter problem.

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SteveF

Buzz,

Thanks for the reply. I actually purchased a replacement ignition switch from Tractor Supply Company (TSC) and while I do still have the old switch, it was so worn that the key no longer fit in it. I had to jam a small screwdriver in it to turn it off so I simply couldn't put that one back in! Only the ground blade appears to be in a slightly different place. I would assume if it were wired completely differently that the engine wouldn't even come close to turning over. To me, it sounds like a car trying to start that's flooded so I'll first run down the possible carb issues.

I even threw the battery on the charger for 6+ hours on trickle charge and it's relatively new anyway but I thought I might have run the battery down trying to start it so many times. Doesn't appear to be a battery issue though.

Thanks,

SteveF

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SteveF

rickv1957,

I appreciate all the advice immensely. I'll also follow your advice this Saturday to verify that I indeed get spark.

Thanks for the tip!

SteveF

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SteveF

Irv,

Yes, it's not turning over. It feels like it's just about to start so I'm getting solid power from the battery. It just never actually starts. But my failing to ever clean the carb does lead me to now believe that I probably have either a gummed up carb or clogged line somewhere between the tank and the carb.

If the starter were bad, would I even be getting to the point where it comes this close to starting?

Thanks,

SteveF

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Indy w h

There's another thing it could have water in the gas.

Indy

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wh500special

Although we're all just guessing, my money would be on the ignition switch. Mostly since it's the thing that was changed prior to problems starting.

I don't know whether the Kawasaki used a magneto or battery/coil igntion system, but if you mix ignition switch types the engine won't run since the plug won't fire. I am - of course - assuming the 1988 model used the Kawasaki 12.5 hp motor...

Briggs engines, for example, usually use a magneto system where the "I" terminal on the switch must be open/ungrounded to allow the engine to run. Turning the key "off" shorts that terminal to ground and ceases spark to the plug.

Battery/coil igntion engines - like Kohlers - need 12V power to the "I" terminal when the key is in the "start" and "run" positions. Turning their keys "off" opens the circuit and kills the spark.

A magneto igntion engine might run with the battery/coil style switch, but won't shut down. A battery igntion engine won't run with the magneto style switch. Again, I don't know what the Kawasaki has.

Compare your VIN number to the parts lists on the Toro MPV and to what Buzz posted. See if you have the correct switch and go from there.

Good luck,

Steve

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mster

The air plug in the carb might need adjusted. I know i have to rebuild my carb. Or it might be the head is loos or needs a new gasket

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