My First Horse is a Pony

[citizen100 0]

Hello to all. This is a very enjoyable and informative site. I live in Northern Delaware and have just purchased my first Wheel Horse. She is a reasonable lawn tractor and fits my needs perfectly. It is a 208-4sb with a 30sd deck which fits through my (and all the neigbors) gates.

We all have 1/3 acre lots even this "little" pony is overkill but I wanted to to some wrenching with my sons as none of us (including me) have worked on mechanical items. My sons are in their later teens and I didn't want them to be my age before they did some wrenching.

Here is a pic:

Deck came like this and my 17 year old put it together and hooked it up (after new spindle was purchased):

She now starts and cuts but of course there are a few issues. So I will handle one post at time. First off is shifting gears. When engine is off transmission shifts extremely ez (shifter on the column When mower is on normaly can get between 2-4 but forget about Neutral or Reverse (and sometimes first). Also when I intitally start off or switch to a higher gear the belts GRABS and wants to buck you off, then works fine. After reading this forum i am thinking drive belt tension? I did just put on a new belt.

Question is how do I adjust the tension. I found a manual for the previous year on the web and they look the same. But the pictures are not viewable. Text in section 18 says

"Brake Adjustment

[stevasaurus 23,138]

Nice looking little guy. Not to sure about these horses, but the tension pulley is really not adjustable on the larger horses. Mine likes to try to throw me if I start out at a high idle...if I start at a lower idle and then increase...much better.

Hope that helps.

[wh500special 2,255]

There isn't a big following for tractors of this style, but I really like them. And yours looks to be in nice shape.

The "SB" in the model name means "Super Bagger". The single blade 30" deck was robbed from the smaller, rear-engined 100 series riders and is supposed to be quite adept at generating great vacuum and bagging tough to deal with grass. SB's had smaller diameter tires to accomodate the longer (from front to back) 30" deck.

Did you replace the belt with a Wheel Horse belt, or did you use an aftermarket "will fit" belt? I've had bad luck on this style of machine with anything other than the genuine article. If you used an afternmarket, I suggest you get a genuine replacement and try again.

You obviously have the manual, so I'm not sure I can offer anything better there.

I don't think there is any adjustment to be made at the eccentric (the nut on the bottom of the tractor frame with the grease fitting adjacent to it). It should be in the pulley postion.

Two things to check:

1. The little guide fingers on the tensioner pulley and up under the engine on its output pulley need to be postioned properly to help stop the belt when you press the clutch/brake. I don't have any baseline dimensions to give you, but if all else fails you can screw around with them looking for improvement. If the belt is trying to spin even when the tractor is being held stationary by the clutch/brake you will encounter tough shifting.

2. You can adjust clutch spring tension by moving the spring from one hole to the next on the tensioner arm. And the idler pulley is mounted in a slot so can be moved a bit too.

You can also check to make sure your shift linkage isn't binding anything.

Sorry I can't be more specific...been a long while that I have been under one of these things since they are usually pretty problem free.

Steve

[W9JAB 156]

Cool little tractor

never seen one befor :D

[hcminis 1,643]

Nice lil Horse. Wish I had one for my son's to mow with.

[citizen100 0]

Thanks for the welcomes, they are appreciated. I did loosen the pulley and it slides a little bit...but the adjustment is in the wrong direction.

WH Special:

I did replace the belt with a non-wheel horse aramid (well Kevlar as I am in Dupont country ) belt. So I will look for a Wheel Horse belt and shell out the extra. I will recheck the "fingers" to see how they are functioning. I kept the old belt on until I routed the new one, but that does not mean the old was routed correctly! I will also get creative and see if I can see if the belt is moving while in nuetural with out brake engaged (Safety first though!) I was looking at the fingers as more to keep the belt on...now I will look and see about the applying some stopping force to the belt. Also I can play with the spring tension as you advised..

I think I am correct in saying that once you get it into a forward gear you don't need the clutch to change forward gears.

I cut a page from the manual for the clutch area in case it gives anyone any ideas...would have been better if the pictures in the downloaded manual I could actually see.

Again...hello to all who look here !

[piecrazy4 0]

:D

[wh500special 2,255]

I did replace the belt with a non-wheel horse aramid (well Kevlar as I am in Dupont country ) belt.

I can appreciate that. Everytime I buy aramid fiber my vendors remind me that "...only Dupont makes Kevlar".

I will also get creative and see if I can see if the belt is moving while in nuetural with out brake engaged (Safety first though!) I was looking at the fingers as more to keep the belt on...now I will look and see about the applying some stopping force to the belt.

The fingers are primarilly guides to keep the belt from falling off when you push the pedal. But when the transaxle is in neutral and you depress the clutch the belt can sometimes grab enough to keep the rear pulley turning. When positioned properly, the fingers can help grab the belt or hold it in postion away from the turning engine pulley so that the input shaft to the trans. doesn't spin and cause gears to clash.

I think I am correct in saying that once you get it into a forward gear you don't need the clutch to change forward gears.

No. You MUST come to a stop before shifting gears on this tractor. I know some of these inline Peerless transaxles were designed to be shifted while under power, but not this series.

Steve

[Fiddlestix 0]

The question I have about the belt is if it is a "clutching" duty belt. aftermarket shouldn't matter any but is it the right design?

[citizen100 0]

Fiddlestix. I did not know there was a difference...but I guess it makes sense that the de-clutching type needs to be able slip a bit? Here is the details of the belt I got:

Kevlar - Aramid Cable Cord Construction - Built for Strength and Endurance

The Jason MXV Premium V-belt is designed to provide optimum performance on demanding outdoor power equipment in use today, as well as all other light-duty FHP drives. Superior Tensile Strength De-Clutching Cover Longer Drive Life Superior Length Stability Greater Heat/Oil Resistance.

APPLICATIONS:

Power Mowers

[Irv 115]

I don't know if that's like my little 211-5 or not, but on it you need to push down on the shifter to go into reverse.

[citizen100 0]

***UPDATE****

OK, I put my little horses rear end up on a block. Started the engine, then clutch and decluched while in Nuetral and watched the belt. Sometimes it did stop when i pushed clutch all the way to brake mode. I did try to move the idler pully "belt brackets" or fingers but that just managed to create a nice smoking rubber smell.

Tried to shift with the tractor up on the block. Same thing, shift out of neutral ok then no shifting really possible. The I tried shifting without clutch...no good. Then shifting while braked (tractor has combined clutch brake pedal) no good. Then somehow I applied light pressure on the shifter (enough that it would shift in when the tractor is off) then slowly depressed the clutch...ooooh it is shifting in the first 1 quarter of clutch travel. I take it off the block and try it out in the yard. This seems to work for me When totally stopped I shift out of nuetral into gear (this always worked.) Then I can shift into any gear (except N ane R) with just depressing clutch only 1/4 of the way, while still moving. So possibly it was user error thinking I need to clutch alot more than I needed

Peerless transmission documentation says" TO AVOID PREMATURE TRANSAXLE FAILURE, DECLUTCHING IS REQUIRED WHEN SHIFTING FROM NEUTRAL TO FIRST OR REVERSE; FROM ANY FORWARD TO REVERSE GEAR OR WHEN OPERATING EQUIPMENT ON A HILL OR UNDER HEAVY LOAD."

So it doesn't say complete stop. It seems I do have to do a complete stop to get into N or R from in gear. I think I am happy. Now to tighten the steering.

Marco

[mavfreak 11]

:D

[bustedglass 1]

Hello Marco, and . I have a 1985 211-3 that I have installed a 15.5hp Briggs, and a 5 speed Peerless transaxle.

I have seperate clutch and brake pedals, but I always had to depress the clutch all the way for the trans to shift. Did'nt need to come to a complete stop. But you having just the single pedal for both functions, I would try pushing the pedal 1/2 way . Worth a try .

You can see my little "BIG" tractor here in the custom photo section.

Again , and I hope you get your problem "ironed out".

[citizen100 0]

Thanks Busted and Mav. Maybe the pedal is 1/2 way...but it seems to be working! I will train up the boys on running it the "proper" way. I will have to keep my eyes out for a Wheel horse cart....and keep my stable humble

Marco

Ponies are quick and agile, good for certain things!

[wh500special 2,255]

I wonder if something in the shift linkage is bumping into something from the clutching mechanism that is preventing movement of the gear changer when the clutch is depressed fully. If you've changed the belt to the OEM belt and fooled around with the belt guides perhaps that's the next step.

Just spitballing...

I guess it is possible that your have a different transaxle in that 211 than i am familiar with, but as far as I know none of the 200 series tractors is meant to be shifted while in motion. If it is working for you and giving you the results you need, then I guess you're OK doing what you're doing. But I personally stop before shifting on all of my tractors.

Oh, I forgot to say

Steve

[citizen100 0]

Steve,

I will try stopping first....then doing the 1/2 cluth deployment while shifting (instead of shifting on the fly.) If that works that I would rather be safe than sorry and do it that way.

I will also try some other combinations as I was doing the last analysis during my lunch break....and in my monkey suit, went back to work with a nice grease spot on my shirt

Marco