Butch 194 #1 Posted May 11, 2010 What size is a good all around wire for welding on the mower decks? I need to fix cracks, shore up some weak points and add new steel. I think I read somewhere here that the decks are 14 gauge steel. When you weld on new steel over holes should ALL of the original old decking be cut or ground away up to the weld joint of the new steel? I figure any overlapping would just lead to more rust and corrosion. Can a welder remove weld joints or must they be cut? I want to remove and replace 3 of those curved sections on the underside that curve/bend around the blade. Can you buy steel at places like Home Depot or Lowes or must you go to a welding supply? Thanks. Butch S. Jersey Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
6wheeler 669 #2 Posted May 11, 2010 I don't know about Jersey, but here in Minn. I get my metal from a fabrication shop about 5 miles from me and they get it from Mcneilus. They just order a little extra and re-sell it. I also think Toll co. has it. You are going to have to form it to fit. Myself, I just patch. If there isn't holes, I just weld the cracks. Otherwise I make a patch. As far as wire, I use whatever I have. Unless I need to weld aluminum, I don't change wire. I also like to use 5/32" rods with my buzz box. Sounds like you are doing a major rebuild. Maybe it might be cheaper and less time consuming to replace it. Just a thought.As far as the curved pieces go, I don't know if the base is bent to form a sort of angle iron effect and, then curved. Otherwise, you could make the curved parts and clean the bottom of where the original are mounted, and, weld the new ones to them. Fillet welds on the bottom would be easy. Clamp the new pieces to the old and weld away. Remember, you are welding light stock and it will distort with too much heat, so, tack a little and move down, tack some more. Then come back and finish it. have fun Pat Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
markslawnmowerworld 4 #3 Posted May 11, 2010 If your using a mig welder like me, i use .025 wire and like the last post said the heat is your enemy....turn your voltage down and wire speed to match. practice on some scrap pieces of the same thickness before you weld your good stock........like he said have fun... oh yeah i use anti splatter spray as well...works real nice. :D Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
big mike 13 #4 Posted May 12, 2010 Butch,I have .023 in my SP-135(110 volt) and .035 in my SP-250 and Millermatic 200s(230 volt) and I can weld thin material with either.The .023 will make life much easier with thin stuff.If you want one wire for 99% of the stuff your going to you can use .030. I find it easier to turn the heat UP and move fast enough to keep from burning through and then stitch.....weld til it looks too hot,stop for a few seconds,weld some more.You can also do what is called back stepping.Weld from left to right for a determined distance then step back over your fresh weld and start up the same amount you just got done with finishing up where the last weld started.Hope that makes sense. I very rarely patch OVER a bad spot.It is much better to cut out the area that is rusted or cracked and make a new piece then butt weld the pieces together. Your welder won't cut,you'll need either a grinder,cut off wheel or torch for that. You can buy steel at Home Depot or Lowes but you will pay substantially more than if you can find a friend at a steel supply house or a fab shop.The other place I watch is the scrapyard......yup ALL kinds of usable steel there,sometimes you just have to look at scrap in a different light . Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wheel Horse Fan 3 #5 Posted May 12, 2010 Butch where are you located in S. Jersey? There is a McMaster-Carr warehouse in Robbinsville. McMaster-Carr isn't all that cheap either but better then Home Depot or Lowes. There are also a few online sources that have decent prices and can provide small pieces rather then having to buy big sections from a metal supplier. Metal Depot Online Metals Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Butch 194 #6 Posted May 12, 2010 Wheel Horse Fan I'm way south of Robbinsville. Probably 1+45. There is a big place I hear people talk about near Glassboro. I'll have to make a trip there to check the place out. They say it's cheap and have all sorts of hardware. I guess to play it safe I'll use the .024 wire. Looking at online steel supply stores and Home Depot/Lowes/TSC I was surprised how expensive steel is! Wow! Butch S. Jersey Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
6wheeler 669 #7 Posted May 13, 2010 :USA: Big Mike, how can you say that, Patching gives a rugged and rustic look . I grind-em and weld-em pretty sometimes too. Butch, like Mike said .030 is the most versatile and I use it alot. Tack your piece in several spots first and, then come back. A grinder will probably work best for you, Torches can be pretty unforgiving. As far as the cost. Well, here scrap is back at $200.00 a ton. So, I guess it is relative.. Pat Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
