primer??

[markslawnmowerworld 4]

I have been using valspar tractor restoration series primer.......

but when i go to paint over it with the valspar restoration red it looks good....

intill its dry.....and then i notice it chips easy....i'm not sure if its the primer or just something i have been doing wrong....but my end result is not satisfying to me at all........the parts i have painted are all smaller sheet metal parts and i'm using the rattle cans....

I do have a professional paint gun set and have allways got good results that way,

using hardener,+ reducer.......

did i get some bad paint?..........

so far i have come to the conclusion that this is the primer, and not so much me,

so does anyone have any good recomendations for some good quality primer?

experienced members or former autobody man apply to this only please...

thanks mark in ohio...

[rmaynard 14,932]

Mark,

I am not an experienced body man, but I will ask a couple of questions.

How long did you let the primer dry before applying the the top coat?

Then, how long did you let the top coat dry before you noticed that it was chipping?

Any paint from a rattle can will take at least a week to cure, sometimes much longer.

I have painted some sub-assemblies with Krylon, which is supposed to dry very quickly, and after a week, it is still subject to chipping and scratching.

Bob

[DMK855 15]

Mark, I too am having problems with the Resto Series paint/primer........

I will be watching this post!!!

[markslawnmowerworld 4]

I have let the primer dry for 24 hours before applying the top coat.....

i have seen in a post here a long while back where someone used what looked liked to me a very nice primer....and had awsome results with his pics he posted,,

wish i could find that post again and ask him what primer he used....

anyway.......i guess i will wait for some experienced....reply's

thanx in advance.....

i was looking for a easy painting solution vs. my gravity feed guns...to save time..

but looks like i might go back to the guns......what a mess that makes...lol

[rmaynard 14,932]

Mark,

You might want to take a look at this thread. It's all about primer.

http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/index.php?...c=302&hl=primer

Bob

[Ken B 3,116]

When I'm priming small parts and the like I use Duplicolor self etching primer. Pretty good stuff and it dries quick.

[GlenPettit 1,714]

Carefully read and follow the instructions on the can, often, the Primer may say something like "top coat after 30 minutes but before 2 hours", or "if not painted within 2 hours, wait 48 hours, or 7 days". Each type of paint has different re-coating top coat instructions, and it seems to change every few years as the formulation changes. There is a real science to painting, but with rattle cans, just carefully follow instructions, also, the temperature and humidity ranges on there are critical.

[joebob 45]

its the paint not the sub surface (primer) ,now if it was coming off in sheets then I would say Primer to paint coadhesion (bite) or if the painted surface changed it's appearance then the problem is under curing the of the primer , shrinking ,dying gloss, etc

imo valspar is to hard ,almost like the lacquer paint of the past, drys fast chips easy,

with any paint line the trick is to learn how to get along with the +s and -s of it

every one has it's problems just some are better then others

[puddlejumper 67]

Glad to know I am not the only one to experience this. complained to a friend who restores vintage cars and he gave me a can of Transtar 6183 self etching 1 K primer. It is expensive but its all I will use under restoration series paint untill I find something better or cheaper. To me the extra cost is minimal after cleaning preping and painting only to have chip while trying to reassemble. Special ordered through Oreillys auto parts.

[danno676 34]

I've been using a spray can self etching primer that you can buy at your local NAPA parts store, I think the part number is 7220 (may have been changed to 7221). I know a lot of body shops will use it when doing spot repair vs mixing up some for the spray gun. I have always had VERY good results. Like everyone else has said, read and follow the directions and take your time. No need to rush perfection :thumbs:

[Horse'n Around 22]

You have to be carefull not to apply too much primer and not too apply it too fast in between coats and watch the temperature too, if its too cold adhesion can be a big problem nomatter how carefull you are when prepping for paint.Theres nothing wrong with applying primer as directed by the mfgr and build it up with ample drying time between coats so you can block sand out imperfections and using a guide coat and such,the key is not to use any more than needed. I was a bodyman for a tad over 20 years and Ive noticed that even when there is good surface preparation and the adhesion is good, vehicles on which the primer is applied too thick will chip easier many times extremely easy.Lots of times the chips dont go down to metal many times primer is still visible. Theres been times when I had been assigned a vehicle to work on and found previous body and or paint work that had primer over 1/8th of an inch and a few with even more than that. One time I found a bit over 3/16 of primer. The same thing can happen with using too much glazing putty some brands are pretty much just a super thick lacquer primer in a tube thats spread on and sanded.

Im not saying that this is the cause of the problem your experiencing, I just wanted to pass along that there is such a thing as too much primer. Here in Arizona where it is really hot another problem that arises from primer thats applied real thick is cracking.I dont know if this is the case with all types of primers. I am mainly speaking from the point of view of a bodyman, in the auto dealerships that I worked in we were responsible for doing the bodywork and priming and we finished off the primer with usually 220 grit paper.The painter took it from there. I do have a lot of experience painting , but my main experience in the autobody field has been as a bodyman. Bodywork was just more fun for me to do, Ive enjoyed it a lot more than painting

John

[rickv1957 70]

The automotive style paints sure cost more,but the end result is worth it.!,Rick

[Horse'n Around 22]

The automotive style paints sure cost more,but the end result is worth it.!,Rick

Your 100% right Rick, if the budget allows, its more than worth the cost. The result will look better and last much longer.

John

[wh79d160 52]

A 2 part automotive primer( one that takes hardner) Will make the compatable top coat alot more durable. An etching prime is recommended for bare metal only. I sold automotive paint for 13 yrs. We used to test it all with different primers w/single stage & basecoat/clearcoat topcoats, acrylic & synthetic enamels, urethanes ect on the same test panels and after they cured would scratch them w/screwdrivers, put gasoline on them ect. just to see what they would do. There is what is called a "critical recoat time" for primers & topcoats as was mentioned a few posts back. Such as after 30 min or before 2 hrs. or wait 7 days ect. Automotive paint has gotten so expensive sense I left the business. On my mower decks, it's cheaper for me to blast them, fill the rust pits w/ jb weld (high heat) & have them powdercoated, which is more durable than anything else you could buy for anywhere close to the same money & the shop has very good color matches. My 2 cents. Tom Perry Ks.

[rmaynard 14,932]

A 2 part automotive primer( one that takes hardner) Will make the compatable top coat alot more durable. An etching prime is recommended for bare metal only. I sold automotive paint for 13 yrs. We used to test it all with different primers w/single stage & basecoat/clearcoat topcoats, acrylic & synthetic enamels, urethanes ect on the same test panels and after they cured would scratch them w/screwdrivers, put gasoline on them ect. just to see what they would do. There is what is called a "critical recoat time" for primers & topcoats as was mentioned a few posts back. Such as after 30 min or before 2 hrs. or wait 7 days ect. Automotive paint has gotten so expensive sense I left the business. On my mower decks, it's cheaper for me to blast them, fill the rust pits w/ jb weld (high heat) & have them powdercoated, which is more durable than anything else you could buy for anywhere close to the same money & the shop has very good color matches. My 2 cents. Tom Perry Ks.

I agree on the powder coat issue. I had rims sandblasted and the guy powder coated them by mistake. I'm glad he did. They look great and are tough as nails.

With all the talk of Wheel Horse red, and everybody having their own likes and dislikes, we could start a whole new discussion here on what powder coat red is closest to Wheel Horse red, which again, no one can agree on.

I would love to see some pictures of your deck done in powder coat.

Bob

[PetesPonies 0]

If you have a spray gun . . try Kirker Epoxy primer. I have used it for 15 years now in auto restoration. It is easy to use, dries quickly for an epoxy and sands well. I do all my work in Kirker Epoxy.

[wheelhorse656 20]

all i use is rusty meatal primer form rustoleum. i have always been happie with the resualt. just make sure to sand the primer with 800 to 900 grit sand paper before painting. also add hardener to the paint your useing helps the basecoat dry faster and it gives it a better shine and makes the paint alot more resistant to fading and chiping. :thumbs: