KC9KAS 4,744 #1 Posted April 25, 2010 My plastic fuel tank for my 1975 B-100 leaks....still I have used a soldering iron to fuse the seam where it leaked, but it still leaked I used a black plastic wire tie as a "filler rod" while using the soldering iron. Still leaked I used a PVC glue for plastics, and it leaked I used an epoxy for plastic, and it held with water, so I put gasoline ($2.89/gal) in it, and you guessed it, it leaked Each time the plastic was clean and roughed up before applying the sealing method Has anyone got any other ideas, short of buying a new $100+ tank? :D Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kelly 1,033 #2 Posted April 25, 2010 I can sell you a tank much cheaper than that, and mine don't leak. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 16,299 #3 Posted April 25, 2010 Is that the black tank with the drain in the middle of the bottom? If so, there is currently one on eBay from a C-160. Bob Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KC9KAS 4,744 #4 Posted April 25, 2010 Yes, it is a Black plastic tank, and the pet cock is right in the center of the bottom...also a rubber grommet used with the pet cock. I did just find a product called SEAL-ALL that suposedly bonds everything except paper, cardboard & styrofoam. Has anyone used this stuff? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 16,299 #5 Posted April 25, 2010 These black tanks are made from the same material as plastic 55 gallon drums, high density polyethylene. Very difficult to glue. By the time you finish spending money on glues that don't work, you could buy a good used tank. Just my 2 cents worth. Bob Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Little_Red 0 #6 Posted April 25, 2010 they make gas tank repair kit ,thers several different types from complete liners to crank repair Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rickv1957 74 #7 Posted April 25, 2010 The best tank repair is a different non leaking tank,Rick Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 16,299 #8 Posted April 25, 2010 The best tank repair is a different non leaking tank,Rick Rick is 100% correct. Bob Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shuboxlover 481 #9 Posted April 25, 2010 The best tank repair is a different non leaking tank,Rick Not to put words in Ricks mouth but I think he meant to say... The only tank repair is a different non leaking tank. :omg: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KC9KAS 4,744 #11 Posted April 25, 2010 PM sent to Kelly Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dandan111 31 #12 Posted April 25, 2010 I fixed my metal tank with JB weld. I had a guy try to repair it 3 times before I broke out the JB weld. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rickv1957 74 #13 Posted April 25, 2010 Lots of differance between metal and plastic ,Rick Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tgranthamfd 29 #14 Posted April 26, 2010 Have you tried PlastiWeld, It's a 2 part that comes in a syringe looking thing that you can get at most any hardware store? If that stuff will not seal it then you should get another tank. I repaired air leaks in schedule 40 PVC, when they should have used schedule 60, with the stuff. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Save Old Iron 1,571 #15 Posted April 26, 2010 Polypropylene will not respond to any solvent based adhesives. That's why they sell glues and solvents in poly bottles !! You can "weld" it by melting it or you can apply a mechanical patch (screws and plates and gaskets)if the contour of the area allows it. Where is the leak coming from? A flat area at a seam line or near the nipple located at the bottom of the tank ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KC9KAS 4,744 #16 Posted April 26, 2010 Leaking around the nipple at the bottom of the tank, on the seams. Also leaking around the neck (fill opening) on the seam, but I don't have to fill the tank all the way, so I could live with that leak....not the one on the bottom! tgranthamfd: Who in their right mind would use Sch 40 PVC for an air line? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mavfreak 11 #17 Posted April 26, 2010 We weld Polypropylene at work. One thing is the welding torch that we use is around 1000 degres and you have to use the same material that you are welding. So you can weld it but not with anything that you can use from home. I would find another tank Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kelly 1,033 #18 Posted April 26, 2010 I'm working on another tank for you but there is only so many hours in the day, and it's been raining cats and dogs most of the weekend, I should know what I have tonight after work. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shuboxlover 481 #19 Posted April 26, 2010 If Kelly can't come up with one, AND it is the same tank out of a C-160, I have a spare I would sell you cheap. Just let me know Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
firemart 0 #20 Posted April 26, 2010 My tank leaks now... :omg: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 16,299 #21 Posted April 26, 2010 You need to figure out if it is leaking at the seam, or if it is leaking at the rubber bushing. If it is the bushing, replace it. They are available for about $2.00 online. Part number 46-6560. If it is the seam or a hole, don't try to fix it as has been discussed above. Just find another tank. They come and go on eBay and usually a good used one can be had for about $10 plus shipping. Bob Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
firemart 0 #22 Posted April 26, 2010 I looked at mine just now, and there is no clamp at the hose to petcock connection? I didn't see a tank leak. Mine could be the bushing or the lack of clamp? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 16,299 #23 Posted April 26, 2010 There should be a spring type clamp on the hose, but a small screw type hose clamp will work fine. The petcock just pushes into the bushing, which just pushes into the tank. The rubber bushing will dry out and crack over time, so if the clamp doesn't fix it, look to the bushing. Bob Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tgranthamfd 29 #24 Posted April 26, 2010 tgranthamfd: Who in their right mind would use Sch 40 PVC for an air line? They ran the PVC around the shop with drops for water collection drains and Tee'ed them at line level with connection points for the air hoses. Good design poor selection. Never said they were the smartest around, but they could have been the cheapest. I was constantly patching that stuff when it popped a pin hole in it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fiddlestix 0 #25 Posted April 28, 2010 Has anyone tried B1/2 or similar aircraft sealant? This is a polysulfide sealant. It is not a resin or solvent or epoxy or adhesive. Exceedingly expensive and messy, but it is used to seal aluminum, composites,plastics,etc all in aircraft fuel cells...be it aromatic gasolines or jet fuel kerosene. I know, as has been mentioned, that one can wait until a $10 tank pops up on eBay or the used market, but it may be ready to fail as well. A small kit from Pro-Seal can be had for about $20 to your door. I have applied it to all the aforementioned substrates and it is unexcelled at sealing. I've even sealed directly on the slippery gel-coat of fiberglass tanks. Here's a link... Pro Seal sealant This is a self contained kit. They make guns that work this like a caulking tube but I have used it by hand. I have also succeeded in using it with a household gun... be patient but it can be done. It is a one shot deal... once the two parts hit each other... you have a couple hours. Get all your tanks gathered up and everybody else's and have a sealing party! This goes for steel tanks as well. Follow the instructions and like a good paint job...clean clean clean...prep prep prep! :omg: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites