tecumseh points timing

[1961551 2]

hi, im trying to get my sons 551 ready. my original stator for the 5.5hp lauson was burnt up and sent out 4 months ago. i guess its lost... long story. anyway, i purchased one for what i was told to be a h60. i have a book on tecumsehs, for later models. im trying to set points closing at .020 piston before top dead center. point gap is coming up at .016 with this. am i doing something wrong? i know you may need more info. does anyone have a procedure for an h55 tecumseh? thanks jimmy

[stevasaurus 23,107]

Information on the HT55 is almost impossible to find...The HH60 is pretty much the same engine and most of the parts are the same. Bored out I think. Here is a Techy manual link.

http://www.cpdonline.com/692509.pdf

[1961551 2]

ok, im still trying. i have learned a little. THEY ARE DIFFERENT POINT CAMS! i have what i believe may work now. (motors all over the shop floor later...)

i am coming up now with .055 btdc when points break open. points are @ .020.

i am on the right track, but i can not find a btdc spec for this h55 motor. or even an h60. thanks steve for your input. jimmy

[buckeye 5]

h60 is .080 btdc, if that helps.

[sorekiwi 761]

Its been a few years since I've screwed with a Tecumseh, but I seem to think that you could adjust the points gap and timing independant of each other?

I'm thinking that you would set the points gap in the conventional manner, and then you could rotate that whole coil/stator/points housing around the cam to get the timing where you wanted it.

I dont think I ever managed to find a timing number for the HT55, I think I used a number from an H60. I must also add that I never did get that motor running just right. :omg:

[buckeye 5]

maybe someone else could chime in. i just looked at brian miller's page, and he had stated different btdc ratings.

[sorekiwi 761]

According to the "L Head Manual" an H60 should have a points gap of .020" and timing at .080 BTDC.

[1961551 2]

thanks guys. i have the l head book as well. i still am not sure what exactly to do. i found that some of the old h35 engines run .035 btdc. some of them run .090 btdc. it is at .060 btdc as we speak. im going to try it. i think it will run. will we have to see if it bucks or if its lazy. will let you know. i really like my kohlers at this moment. jimmy

[buckeye 5]

let us know how it works out for you. :omg:

[algrc120man 0]

you need a dial indicator an a continuity meter and do it the old fashiond way and will be dead on as to where the piston is versus point gap :omg:

[1961551 2]

yes, i have a dial indicator and the continuity light box connected to test. i can set it dead on with no problem. i just dont know what the dead on spec is for this engine. some say .050 some say .070 my other h55 breaks at .055 btdc. im going to try .060. will post results. jimmy

[sorekiwi 761]

I understand your pain.

While setting the points and timing is not difficult, changing it to a different setting kinda is. For those who havent been thru "Tecumseh hell", you have to remove the shroud again, which is held at the top by two or three of the head bolts. Pull the flywheel off again. There are no timing marks on the flywheel, timing is set by putting the piston at a specific distance from TDC. so you either pull the head off again to use a dial indicator directly on top of the piston, or use an impossible to find, expensive special tool that screws into the spark plug hole to achieve the same thing.

Perhaps while it is all apart, you could put some marks on the flywheel for .050, .060, .070 etc ?

For what its worth, here is the most credible reply I ever got after asking the same question all over the internet:

http://www.perr.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6792&highlight=

Good luck!!

[1961551 2]

hi, ran the engine tonight. engine timing at .060 i think is fine. idles well, takes fuel and accelerates well. however, she blowing oil out the breather. i know its a new motor and rings may need to seat. probably 2-3 ounces in 20 mins run time. none off my other rebuilds have done this. i have an 1960 parts illustration manual for the h55d and breather is assembled as shown in parts breakdown. any ideas? jimmy

[buckeye 5]

to much oil maybe? breather damaged, dirty, or improperly installed. piston rings not properly seated. have to ask, you didn't line up the ring end gaps did you?

[Coadster32 793]

you either pull the head off again to use a dial indicator directly on top of the piston, or use an impossible to find, expensive special tool that screws into the spark plug hole to achieve the same thing.

You could leave the head on, and just use a depth micrometer.

Pretty good idea on marking the flywheel.

[sorekiwi 761]

You could leave the head on, and just use a depth micrometer.

I'd have to look at one, but I dont think the spark plug hole is over the top of the piston. The fancy Tecumseh tool has a plunger with about a 1" offset on the bottom.

For $120 you could probably buy 20 head gaskets before you have paid for the tool. The used ones I've seen on ebay seem to go for pretty good money too. I thought about building one, but really how often are you going to use one?

If anyone wants one: http://www.manddsmallengine.com/tecumseh/tools/670241.html

[1961551 2]

hi, i pulled the breather cover off and i found, i had installed upside down. (oil drain at the top.) my illustration was wrong. but i still should have known better. anyway, its good now. thanks for the input. jimmy