rmaynard 16,297 #1 Posted March 18, 2010 I am attempting to disassemble a C-120 with a K301 engine. I have removed all parts of the PTO, but the 7/16" stud in the end of the crankshaft will not budge. Is there a secret to removing it? Is it a standard right-hand thread? Since this only has a screwdriver slot in the end, I feel like I am going to destroy the slot if I apply too much power. It has been sitting overnight with PB Blaster. Bob Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JimD 3,347 #2 Posted March 18, 2010 An impact driver is a good tool to have around to break stubborn bolts loose. You can get one that uses screw driver head drivers for that type of bolt. They aren't terribly expensive if you shop around. :omg: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Roger from southern Iowa 1 #3 Posted March 18, 2010 You beat me to it Jim.... If that doesn't work I would suggest a stud removal tool. If you don't have one, check around repair shops in your area. They work very well if there is enough stud for the tool to grab. Hope it comes out easily with these tips. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 16,297 #4 Posted March 18, 2010 Grabbing the stud now is no problem as it is all there. I was trying to avoid damaging it. I could lock onto it with my vise grips and muscle it out, but I don't want to damage it as a new one runs about $28 from Toro. Bob Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,162 #5 Posted March 18, 2010 Cut it off flush with the end of the crankshaft and throw the piece in the trash. Get a new stub shaft (# 102872) and two new snap rings (# 32120-72) and reassemble per the mid 80's 300 series tractors style (LINK) and it will work better than it ever did. :omg: 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 16,297 #6 Posted March 21, 2010 Cut it off flush with the end of the crankshaft and throw the piece in the trash. Get a new stub shaft (# 102872) and two new snap rings (# 32120-72) and reassemble per the mid 80's 300 series tractors style (LINK) and it will work better than it ever did. Thanks Terry. I knew there had to be a better way. Bob Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rjr 0 #7 Posted March 22, 2010 If its not too late slot the same size nut with a hack saw (cut all the way thru one side from top to bottom) then use the vice grips. Alternately you could cut the nut like they do collets but one slot has always worked for me. I have also used the cut nut as a thread chaser if I don't have a die. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
algrc120man 0 #8 Posted April 1, 2010 you can also cut the hex from another heavy bolt and weld it to yours let it cool and zip it out with an impact :omg: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 16,297 #9 Posted June 19, 2011 Cut it off flush with the end of the crankshaft and throw the piece in the trash. Get a new stub shaft (# 102872) and two new snap rings (# 32120-72) and reassemble per the mid 80's 300 series tractors style (LINK) and it will work better than it ever did. I am addressing this subject again. My B-100 project has an engine that I built from two different engines. I used the block from a newer K241S taken off a 310-8. The internals, specifically the crankshaft, was from a K241AS taken from a C-101. The C-101 crank did not have the 7/16" stud in the end for the PTO helper spring, so I assembled it as suggest above in TT's post. The problem that I had was that the PTO bell would not move back out forcefully enough to stop when hitting the brake pad, without the helper spring. So I decided to put the spring back in. This meant that I needed a new 7/16" stud (104842) which is now $31.20 plus S&H from Toro, or try to find a good used one. I decided to make one. Here is what I did. I took a lug bolt, which is 7/16" fine thread, put the threaded end in the drill press, and using a series of files, I ground the head down to a diameter of 7/16". Then I cut a groove in the end with a hacksaw, and voila, I had a FREE stud. I found the two washers, thrust bearing and spring from my junk box and reassembled the PTO. Works like a champ. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
can whlvr 994 #10 Posted June 20, 2011 good job on being creative,ive found that this is a very important skill to have when dealing with older machinery Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kwalshy 237 #11 Posted June 30, 2020 Does anybody happen to know what size the PTO retainer clip 32120-72 is or how I could cross reference it? I'd like to see if the local hardware store has them available. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,482 #12 Posted July 5, 2020 Snap rings are sized by the shaft size or bore size for internal rings. I believe the stub shaft is 3/4" OD so the ID will be smaller than that but called a 3/4" ring. Snap rings are stamped so one side has sharp edges and the other round edges. If there are two rings on your shaft the inner one should have the sharp side facing the engine and the outer ring sharp side facing the outside. They hold better when under pressure. Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
