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dobeleo

1986 312-A

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dobeleo

I am now tearing apart my Kohler K301 12 HP engine. Cylinder looks great, the hour meter only showed 300 hours.

Here are a few problems I am running into:

I have seen engine pics were the cooling fins are cleaned spotless. Any suggestions on how best to do this? The muffler is chrome plated, just want to buff it out and bring back as much shine as I can.

I can not break the 1/4" allen head bolts loose to remove the muffler. I have heated them up with Map Gas, no luck, any suggestions?

The cylinder wall looks perfect, not a single scratch, I will probably just cross hone it and replace the rings.

The valves are pretty corroded, I am sure the valve guides are shot.

The valve seats are pretty rusted up, I will first try to lap them, if they still look bad, replace them.

The carberater throttle is frozen in place. What is the best stuff to soak it in to remover rust?

Thanks again to all for your comments!

I am having too much fun working on this!

http://s923.photobucket.com/albums/ad79/do...nt=100_0067.jpg

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post-61-1267705873.jpg

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dobeleo

I am rebuilding my K301 engine. I read somewhere in a post that there was a part, I think mentioned ont the crank shaft that I should leave off on the Kohler engines, its a part that sometimes comes loose and trashes the engine.

Any recomendations are appreciated!

Dan

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Roger from southern Iowa

Wish you the best on the rebuild.

The parts to leave out you're talking about, I would say are the so called balance gears.

Cleaning cooling fins, I use wire brush wheel on a drill and spray solvent/ degreaser. if you want the casting flashing gone, hacksaw blade, time and patience.

Stuck bolts and throttle plated, we have some spray caller "knocker loose" that works better than anything else I've found ( I get it at NAPA) locally) and....patience and lots of it.

Valve seats, before you replace them try resurfacing them.

Valve guides are replaceable.

And finally, how can a guy have too much fun??????? :party:

Keep us updated, and B)

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dobeleo

Do they look like guide rollers that roll against the crank on the opposite side of the cam shaft? There are 2 pins pressed into the housing that these 2 guide rollers slide on to.

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Roger from southern Iowa

i would say you have found them. B)

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mflowers

I have used this stuff at work and around the garage, it is amazing for freeing rusted parts. http://www.kanolabs.com

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dobeleo

Hey Guys,

I got my engine rebuild kit, honed cylinder, looks great, put the crank shaft back in and noticed I need to measure the back lash and add gasket shims. Where do I measure from?

Want to get the engine fired up this weekend!

Thanks for your input!

Getting closer!

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rick

You measure the distance the crankshaft slides lengthwise in the block, using the thick and one thin gasket between the block and bearing plate, if my memory serves me. I am in the house and my manual is in the shop. I use a dial indicator to measure the

amount of lash. You can use feeler gages to measure the gap between the bearing and crankshaft shoulder, too. I just happen to have a dial indicator from a previous life as an automotive tech. We were called mechanics back then!

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dobeleo

Hi Rick,

I rotated the crank shaft and see where the gap between and the bearing and the shoulder of the crank shaft. I initially used the thck paper gasket and snugged it up, I will back it off and add the paper gasket till I get that gap right.

Now next question.

I honed the cylinder, looks great. I ordered a new piston head and rings. Now the oil ring looks different as compared to the original ring set. The top rings are the same. I have instructions for the installation and cant figure it out, I also showed it to my daughter and she wasnt sure either.

I appreciate being walked through this!

Dan

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rick

http://www.kohler-engine-parts.opeengines.com/

I strongly suggest you go to the above site, and order the appropriate

service manual. You can also download the manual free, in PDF, from the same place. At the left of home page, there is a list of categories. Go to manuals, and an index page comes up. The PDF manuals are in the free manual category. I am sure you will find it interesting reading....

rick

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dobeleo

Techinical Question:

I installed the drive pulley then friction plate on the crank shaft, then slid the Race onto the crank shaft and installed the bolts to the friction plate.

I noticed the race would spin on the crank shaft.

Is it suppose to?

Thanks All for your input!

Dan

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TT

Did you install the two half-circle retainers in the groove on the inner race?

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dobeleo

Happy Easter,

I did install the 2 retainer clips that bolt through the friction plate to the pulley.

Dan

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TT

As long as it's not overly sloppy, it should be fine. I usually polish the inside of the bearing race and the crankshaft with emery cloth and apply a light coat of Anti-Seize when assembling.

Sure makes it nice the next time they have to come apart. :omg:

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dobeleo

Got my seal on order for the pulley before I put it back on.

Is there a bolt / washer that goes on the end off the crank shaft? I took it apart in the spring and dont remember.

My concern is that the race spins on the crank shaft and if this spins while the engine is running, friction between the race and crank shaft could be bad.

The 2 race retaining clips are in place.

Thanks all for your comments!

By the way, my wife has complained about me fixing up the old girl, then the other day, her brother the auto mechanic came over and saw it in the garage and was really impressed with my work.

She has backed off a little. LOL

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