Original Engine Color

[CochinsRus 0]

I'm looking in the future to start a restore of my c-160 horse 76 model, my first question is about the engine color. I have the K341S-71128a 16hp cast iron. what was the color of this engine originally wheel horse red or bare cast iron color or something else?

Second question is related to the metal fuel pump. What is the sign that it needs to be replaced?

Third, the tractor starts normal but every time I push the clutch in it wants to try to start again and the switch is in the on position not the start. Does this mean that I need to replace the switch?

[TT-(Moderator) 1,169]

B)

The engine was painted (red - in this case) by the manufacturer and they never exactly matched the tractor color. Painting it with the same paint used on the rest of the tractor is the acceptable practice in most "restorations" I have seen.

If the fuel pump quits pumping and can't be repaired, is leaking and can't be stopped, or is physically broken and/or has stripped threads for the fittings, then it's time to replace it.

It definitely sounds like the ignition switch is bad. Do you have the ability to use a multimeter or test light?

[rickv1957 77]

Engine color same as tractor,sounds like switch may be bad,what is your fuel pump doing,Rick

[CochinsRus 0]

After the tractor warms up and has been running awhile, I start pulling any load it starts what sounds like piston slap or clanging noise (loud). I push in the clutch and lower the idle and it settles down and runs correct. But as soon as i rev it up again it does the same thing. If I cut it off and let it cool down it will run fine for a while and then start up again. I pulled the head off the engine for the first time in 30 years. It made me feel bad to start its first operation ever but I did. I checked the bore size and everything is still in the middle of specs for the engine. egg shapping at the bottom of the cylinder was only .001 out of round. but still way in spec. All that I have read is that the fuel pump is vapor locking when it get hot. If I'm not mistaking this is why they switched to plastic, wright?

[TT-(Moderator) 1,169]

They switched to plastic because they're cheaper to manufacture. (and it shows )

Have you cleaned and gapped the points and/or replaced the condenser recently?

[CochinsRus 0]

Haven't changed the condenser or checked the gap on the points.

What i read was that the metal fuel pumps when they get hot will vaporize the fuel and cause a vapor lock issue.

I don't always have this issue only when it gets hot outside and the engine has been running for about an hour.

[TT-(Moderator) 1,169]

It sounds like you just need to try some routine maintenance first - before you dive any deeper.

Download the Kohler engine manual (TP-2379) and follow the recommendations for periodic maintenance in section 3.

[CochinsRus 0]

Is it normal for a K341S to go for 30 years of use and not need any internal or external work. No point adjustments coil replacements or anything. Removing the head was the first time that any part of the engine had been removed in 30 years.

[rickv1957 77]

Seen the kohlers go beyond 30 years without a rebuild but had normal maint,Rick

[mack 904 3]

if points and condenser don't fix it, the ignition coil is probably breaking down under load.

[Horse Rancher 0]

I've had the k341 do this and it is spark knock from running

too lean pull carb off and clean and install new gaskets also

check throttle shaft for wear

[rmaynard 16,700]

Nice to have you aboard When you start the rebuild, we want to see pictures before, during, and after.

I have the 10HP Kohler that is on a 1977. It has never had anything done to it other than oil change.

They run until they drop.

Bob

[CochinsRus 0]

I won't start any rebuild until it quits on me. After taking the head off and measureing the cylinder walls, i dont think that will be happening for another 30 years. I just need to settle out this issue to get it to run correct.

Where should I start? My grandfather-in-law that passed away is the one that I bought it from and he had the tractor since '78 and had done nothing except oil changes. And it was used every year to mow. So when I pulled the head off it made me feel bad because it was the first bolt to ever come out of the engine.

I may in the next year start pulling the tractor apart and repainting but I want to get it running correct again. It has been parked for two years because of this issue. When it started giving me problems I parked it in the basement and went and bought on of those cheap off brand mowers to mow the yard. My goal is to restore the mower and use it just to do light work around the house and I may use a snow bolwer and clean the drive or a scraper blade.

I'm the third generation that has used this tractor and the only things that have been done is its been repainted and the front tires have been replace (rear tires still original), and the seat was repaced.

:party:

[Duff 206]

Where should I start?

I think TT's advice on routine maintenance (a few posts above) is probably the best course of action.......I think you'll be pleasantly surprised at the difference it makes!

Duff B)

[Rideawaysenior 28]

TT is right they sure are cheaper to manufacture and it shows. Too bad that Kohler can't pass the savings down to the consumer. A new replacement pump will run $100.00 or better from what I've found. Too bad someone here can't make rebuild kits for them.

[rickv1957 77]

Too bad someone here can't make rebuild kits for them.

I would think somebody has the skill and tooling to reproduce a rebuild kit,Rick

[CochinsRus 0]

I found a place a few mile from my home that has the plastic replacement pumps for $35+Tax+$5 shipping. This is alot cheaper than buying a rebuild kit for the carb. Because I have a bad feeling that the diaphram is very brittle or hard, especial since I havent used it for 2-3 years. It might even have a build up of varnish and gum.

I know they are cheaper but would it be worth $42 to go ahead and replace it with a plastic one and just keep the old metal one and rebuild it later (maybe).

As far as the coil is it the same as a older model chevy 350 or does wheel horse use a specifice one.

Where can I find points and cond. sets?

I know this is a stupid question but are the head gaskets reusable?

[CochinsRus 0]

Horse Rancher,

If this is spark knock then couldn't it be the fuel pump? Because my understanding of the issue with the metal pumps is that when they get hot from the engine the start to vaporize the fuel that is in the pump and this causes an air lock situation in the supply line going from the Pump to the Carb. I had read a while back that this is why they went to plastic. I not stepping on anyones toes or wanting to make anyone else mad, I apreciate the responses and help. But would this be possible?

[TT-(Moderator) 1,169]

Kohler parts are available through Kohler dealers (small engine shops or online, etc.) and no - a head gasket shouldn't be reused, but a lot of people do it.

The ignition coil must be a 12 volt internal-resistor type. Automobile coils will work if they match those requirements.

Once again.........

It sounds like you just need to try some routine maintenance first - before you dive any deeper.

Download the Kohler engine manual (TP-2379) and follow the recommendations for periodic maintenance in section 3.

Once you have completed the periodic maintenance as recommended by the engine manufacturer, operate the tractor and see if the problem still occurs. I honestly don't think it's vapor lock - unless someone has the gas line routed incorrectly or the muffler is touching the fuel pump. Have you checked the gas cap to see if the vent is working?

[sorekiwi 761]

Before I got too carried away, I would start with the basics like TT suggested.

Points, a plug, fuel filter and probably a carb clean out. These are items that will unquestionably deteriorate over time. If that doesnt fix it, then I would start to look a little deeper.

I've had more than a few tractors with metal fuel pumps (in fact I've never had a plastic one) and I've never seen a problem with vapor lock.

[Roger from southern Iowa 1]

I think the others have you covered. Clean and rebuild carb and a good tuneup should get you running.

I've never experienced vapor lock on a small engine, not saying it can't happen.

[Horse'n Around 22]

Just a thought, you might want to check and make sure that the vent in the gas cap isnt plugged.If the vent is plugged the tank will eventually basicly build up a vacuum in it and that will tend to stop of severely slow the flow of gas to the carburator.

Just something to think about,it cant hurt anything to try and it will be easy to do.

John

Im sorry TT, I just saw your post, I didnt mean to repeat your suggestion about the plugged gas cap vent.

John

[72morph 1]

I had a similar problem that I thought was something was binding up ,read "D160 binding under load" posts.It was the points set to 029 and not 020.This drove me to to walk in circles for a month or two.This causes too much advance and the engine wants to stall like its under a terrific load.When return to idle all is ok.Read my posts for some laughs.Hope this helps.

[linen beige 16]

I'll second (or third, fourth, fifth) TT's advice. Do the routine maintenance and see what you get. This includes not only a new air filter, fuel filter, plug, points (properly gaped) and condensor, but an oil change and removing the engine shrouds and CLEANING OUT THE COOLING FINS. It sounds as though there is 30+ years of stuff in there.

Cleaning the carb is also a very good idea. Gum deposits can cause a lean mixture which can cause a spark knock. Make sure the vent in the fuel cap is clean. If the fuel hoses are original I would replace them. The hoses may be collapsing as they get hot and starving it for fuel.

I do have one question. How did you measure the wear in the bottom of the cylinder without pulling the piston?