illinilefttackle 399 #26 Posted March 14, 2008 1056-Thanks! Great drawings-I understand now-only one question I need to ask-upfront under the hood stand-which arm do I hook to? the same one that my Deck hooks to? It looks like the cable has to travel UP quite a bit to reach it-is that OK?-Thanks again-AL Kinda hard to see everything with the Hydro Valve in the way. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,169 #27 Posted March 14, 2008 The very bottom hole on part # 19 in this drawing (marked "Rear Hitch / Tiller Lift Cable"): Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
illinilefttackle 399 #28 Posted March 15, 2008 Thanks again 1056!-I'll have to get underneath the tractor to see that one-the Hydro Valve hides it. Come to think of it-my 11 yr old grandson was under there when I pushed the cable thru and he said " that's neat-it's coming right out by a thing with a hole in it!" Now I know what he saw. Can I grease the cable before I put it in the tube for the final time? Or will it all melt out? How did you find that drawing with all the writing on it? When I go to the MSV it only shows the drawing. Thanks again. I waited to go to TSC until tomorrow-so I could see what I had to have today! It's up with the chickens tomorrow morn-TSC is about 30 mi round trp. Thanks again-guys like you are why I like this site-and I can get answers quick-AL :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,169 #29 Posted March 15, 2008 That's actually the "Lift Linkage" plate for a 1983 GT-1848 (D1-184801 ) at the Toro MPV. It's all the same parts as your tractor. :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kelly 1,035 #30 Posted March 15, 2008 I personaly would not grease the cable, as it will collect dirt, you might try a dry lube, graphite most hardware stores will have it maybe TSC. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
glenn27 71 #31 Posted March 15, 2008 I made my last 2 cables from TSC with stainless cable, clamps, the tear droped shaped things to put on the cable at the bends, and a mini clevis 1/4" all for less than $20 each. Tear dropped thingie called a "Cable Thimble"--in crane lingo. I just happened to remember from years in the towing/recovery business....... :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
glenn27 71 #32 Posted March 15, 2008 You can cut the ends off the cross shaft, Al. I don't know how you can put new snap ring grooves in it, but you could always double hose clamp it on the inside of the bushings so it wouldn't slide sideways. You could also cross drill it and install some 3/16" roll pins through it. I drew a picture of the clevis to cable hook-up because I don't have any real ones: Terry--That drwing of yours is good and correct--on the cable--the way you positioned the cable clamps is correct!! On a small aplication such as this--it won't really matter--but on larger/heavy lifting rigging it definately would. Old saying was "Never saddle a dead horse"--meaning the little saddle part w/ the nuts goes on the live end of the cable--not the stub! Thanks for making me think again early on a Saturday morning! {Didn't mean to horn in on this thread w/ trevia--but it's kinda neat stuff--even if mostly useless}............ Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,169 #33 Posted March 15, 2008 It's all in the previous posts, Glenn. (I didn't mention the "never saddle a dead horse" reference, but I know it well. ) I have a cumulative 10 years or more in the cable slinging/lifting/pulling atmosphere and a little experience with bridge cranes and mobile cranes. I also know that leather palm gloves are a MUST when working with any wire rope. :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
illinilefttackle 399 #34 Posted March 16, 2008 :thumbs: I have serious clearance problems back at the gas tank and the lift arms. I saw the cut outs in the tank for clearance so when I cut the large rod I cut it so it mounted all the way to the left to fit into these slots. But when I hang the hitch on the short rod it bumps the gas tank quite a bit. The clevis hits it too. It looks like I may need a different way to attach the chain to the arm-something flatter or on the inside between the arms. Also I don't think there will be enough room for the long arm to be pulled back far enough to lift plow off the ground-because of the length of the combined "thimble" and clevis. What kind of ends do the regular WH cables have? I need to re-think this-The saddle type gas tank is a real clearance problem!-AL :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,169 #35 Posted March 16, 2008 Here's the IPL for the 85515 Clevis Hitch: (the one that's made for your tractor) Here's the part numbers: 8 108144 CABLE 9 104524 TRUNNION-CLUTCH ROD 22 108143 CLEVIS-LONG Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
illinilefttackle 399 #36 Posted March 16, 2008 Looks like it pulls the hitch from the same arm as the cable does. Should I cut off the short bar for clearance and modify the long one to accept the chain from the hitch? Thanks -AL Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,169 #37 Posted March 16, 2008 Anything you can do to make it work, Al. No one will see what lurks under the fender when you're done. :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
illinilefttackle 399 #38 Posted March 16, 2008 Well it says its 38 degrees out but feet my differ. I been working on a cold concrete floor for hours-BUT- I did get something done. I cut the second -short-arm off the "thingy" (sorry Stigian) I got from Evilbay-I then drilled a hole in it about 1/3 way up the longer rod for a place to attach the chain from the hitch. I brazed in a 3/8 bolt and added a large washer and a self locking nut. I then decided I wasn't going to pay $12 bucks for a trunion to attach the cable to the long arm-SO- I made one out of the head of a bolt and a piece of bushing from a Ford alternator-brazed it together, I left enough sticking out the other side to drill and key it. I then put the cable thru it and put a cable clamp on it. I hope this will hold? It all works great,clears everything-the Gas tank even fits on! Now all I have to do is figure out the front end under the Hoodstand. But I'm too cold and too old, and my knees left their best days on the Gridiron-so I'm in the house typing trying to get warm. I'm trying too get my camera working but no luck yet- this stuff would make good pictures! I'll shout back when I get the rest done-and get enough guts to try it out-see if my brazing is as good as it used to be!-Thanks-AL :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
illinilefttackle 399 #39 Posted March 23, 2008 Update-I finished the attachment up front under the hood stand-Your right-there is not much travel in this bellcrank arm! I'm just having a little problem getting the cable tight, holding it, and tightening the clamps at the same time. Not enough hands (only Two)- It's still too cold for a old guy to be laying on the concrete cussing at his Wheel Horse for too long. Try again tomorrow-maybe a little warmer. Tickster-you said you got cable Ferrules at TSC-what did they look like? Thanks-AL :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rollerman 290 #40 Posted March 23, 2008 Hmm Al....looks like I'll be needing to make a house call again? May be out that way next week....I can see if I can steer you in the right direction & drop off that engine if you want it? The cable ferrules are just a little aluminium peice you slide opn the cable & crimp it Some have two holes so you cane make a loop with the cable...others are just crimbed on a single cable & used to prevent a clamp or clevis from comeing off. Just like the factory setup. :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
illinilefttackle 399 #41 Posted March 23, 2008 Stephan- A-OK on the engine- I'm going to try to enlist the help of my Oldest grandson ,that works at Home Depot, tomorrow-to see if we can get it tight. At the back,where the cable passes thru my home made trunion on the arm, I just used two cable clamps to keep the cable from pulling thru, it works ok,but I don't like the way it looks-to cumbersome-It would look better with a cable Ferrule on the end with a washer between the ferrule and the trunion. Email me if and when you plan to come-I work a little job in the afternoon to pay for helping the grandkids!-Thanks -AL :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
illinilefttackle 399 #42 Posted March 23, 2008 Well even though the floor was cold-I finished the lift today-The Easter Bunny helped me on his pass thru- it was hard to get him to sit still (kept saying something like "I'm late, I'm late")- but we got the cable tight-and tried it out-it lifts the plow up off the floor with about 5 inches to spare-and when it comes down ,the cable has a little slack so I think it will allow the plow to dig in. Man! does it feel good when you get a project done and it works! I had to promise my helper some of the Fresh Lettuce & Carrotts I'm going to grow in the garden-good price for good help. Thanks-AL :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
T-Mo-(Moderator) 4,685 #43 Posted March 24, 2008 Congratulations, Al. Good job. Now :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites