rodco 0 #1 Posted February 7, 2010 I used my C-161 Automatic for the first time today to clear the snow on my sidewalks. I have about 200 feet of 4 foot wide sidewalk. I have the factory ARK loader. I am not sure if it is the tires, automatic transmission (no low gear) or something else. I always have used my Sears Suburban with a snow blade and never had much trouble. The Wheelhorse seems to spin its wheels a lot and not really grip. I got stuck probably20 or so times today. I know the snow was wet and heavy and about 14" deep. It took me 6 hours straight to clear the walks. I have the Chevron tires and about 400 lbs of Iron in the weight bucket on the back. On a side not... I noticed a few days ago while trying to climb a very low angle hill that the wheels just slipped on the wet grass/ mud ( no snow yet). Would I be better off with turf tires/ chains? Thanks Robert Pittsburgh Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brrly1 1,146 #2 Posted February 7, 2010 Hello, I think in the winter time I would guess it would probaly be better to have a set of two link chains. I myself got stuck as the snow was also wet and heavy here. I got stuck a couple of times but was able to get out. I was thinkng about going back to the turfs and chains. Good luck See ya, Bye Burly B) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
d180man 5 #3 Posted February 7, 2010 HI nice tractor ! chains can help ! we have run them on ag and turff tires ! but nice photos! :party: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cody 277 #4 Posted February 7, 2010 I would also go with turff tires and 2 link chains. I would imagine that with all of the weight of the loader hanging off the front plus the weight of the snow in the bucket is why your having problems. If it were me i would take the loader off and put a snow blade or blower on the wheel horse, it would move the snow alot easier and without getting stuck all over the place because there would not be the weight from the loader. And in spring put the loader back on. just my 2cents Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Confused99 2 #5 Posted February 7, 2010 I would also go with turff tires and 2 link chains. I would imagine that with all of the weight of the loader hanging off the front plus the weight of the snow in the bucket is why your having problems. If it were me i would take the loader off and put a snow blade or blower on the wheel horse, it would move the snow alot easier and without getting stuck all over the place because there would not be the weight from the loader. And in spring put the loader back on. just my 2cents My thoughts too. Jason Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Docwheelhorse 2,740 #6 Posted February 7, 2010 Those tires are terrible in snow.... get a set of reguolar Turf tires with 2 link chains... or go looking for a set of Dico Turf Trac RS tires. I and others have found that they are incredible in snow.... they certainly don't look like they should but they go like crazy!! Tony Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jimbotelho 1 #7 Posted February 7, 2010 I would also go with turff tires and 2 link chains. I would imagine that with all of the weight of the loader hanging off the front plus the weight of the snow in the bucket is why your having problems. If it were me i would take the loader off and put a snow blade or blower on the wheel horse, it would move the snow alot easier and without getting stuck all over the place because there would not be the weight from the loader. And in spring put the loader back on. just my 2cents My thoughts too. Jason I agree the bucket holds a lot of weight and being wet snow no wonder the thing slips I have plowed many years with a blade and can say that If if had the choice between bucket and blade it would be the blade You may try the chains but physics -----you are pushing//plowing a lot of weight try the chains and if you leave the bucket on her only pick up halfbuckets and see. just my opinion B) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bitten 134 #8 Posted February 7, 2010 Two links on those ags and wheel weights would be a great start. I have the two links on my ags and havent got stuck yet. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jimbotelho 1 #9 Posted February 7, 2010 I would also go with turff tires and 2 link chains. I would imagine that with all of the weight of the loader hanging off the front plus the weight of the snow in the bucket is why your having problems. If it were me i would take the loader off and put a snow blade or blower on the wheel horse, it would move the snow alot easier and without getting stuck all over the place because there would not be the weight from the loader. And in spring put the loader back on. just my 2cents My thoughts too. Jason I agree the bucket holds a lot of weight and being wet snow no wonder the thing slips I have plowed many years with a blade and can say that If if had the choice between bucket and blade it would be the blade You may try the chains but physics -----you are pushing//plowing a lot of weight try the chains and if you leave the bucket on her only pick up halfbuckets and see. just my opinion B) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wheelhorsec85 5 #10 Posted February 7, 2010 I used my C-161 Automatic for the first time today to clear the snow on my sidewalks. I have about 200 feet of 4 foot wide sidewalk. I have the factory ARK loader. I am not sure if it is the tires, automatic transmission (no low gear) or something else. I always have used my Sears Suburban with a snow blade and never had much trouble. The Wheelhorse seems to spin its wheels a lot and not really grip. I got stuck probably20 or so times today. I know the snow was wet and heavy and about 14" deep. It took me 6 hours straight to clear the walks. I have the Chevron tires and about 400 lbs of Iron in the weight bucket on the back. On a side not... I noticed a few days ago while trying to climb a very low angle hill that the wheels just slipped on the wet grass/ mud ( no snow yet). Would I be better off with turf tires/ chains? Thanks Robert Pittsburgh you need a set of chains . preferibly spiked shains . you need more wieght on the back . so get yourself wheel wieghts . i would put at least 100 lbs in each rim . and you should be good to go B) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 16,293 #11 Posted February 7, 2010 I ditto the comments above. Get yourself some chains. It's the lease expensive fix at this point. Bob Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rickv1957 74 #12 Posted February 7, 2010 A blade or blower seen better for snow removel,plenty of rear weight will help,Rick Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rustynut 4 #13 Posted February 7, 2010 you get you some wheel waits and set of tire chains and youl be beter off Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 18,660 #14 Posted February 7, 2010 Ag tires are not the panacea some think. I have a 1953 Case DC farm tractor with 600lbs of wheel weights. She would push OK as long as it wasn't icy under the snow but would refuse to backup even a slight grade. If it was icy packed snow underneath she would just spin in either direction. Added chains and she is unstoppable. AG tires are called directional tires for a reason Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
truckin88 104 #15 Posted February 7, 2010 you need weight. I would do chains on the ags before just switching them... I have no issues with ags and wheel weights, but I am also 300lbs.....plus my driveway is gravey but when I get out to the road I am still fine. Chains and weights!!! Drop the loader go to a blade Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dandan111 31 #16 Posted February 7, 2010 thats some heavy,deep looking snow! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dresden Guy 24 #17 Posted February 7, 2010 Just for my...... Your C-161 is a great WH, but the FEL and ags are not the best snow removal combination. Ag tires are meant for soft soil so that the ribs/bars can get traction, but hard and/or frozen driveways or soil reduces the actual tire contact surface to only 20 - 25% as compared to a turf tire. The square inches of contact by the ag bars on a hard surface is minimal at best, and adding chains only marginally helps because a lot of the chain links go up between the bars, and so it is not a whole lot better. However, if you take a turf tire, with it's nearly 80 - 90% of rubber contacting the traction surface (frozen ground or driveway) and add chains you have far more tractive force available than from an ag tire with chains or ag tires by themselves. The big factor about turf tires with chains is that since you have so much more tire/chain surface area you will do far more damage to a nice asphalt driveway as you push snow and/or ice. You will have to make a coice. And I agree with others who say...the loader is not best suited for snow removal. I would think that an 30 degree angled snow blade will get the job done better. However, in looking at the enormous depth of your snowfall, you may need a CAT D-9 dozer!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Curmudgeon 28 #18 Posted February 7, 2010 Turfs with chains and some added weight will increase traction tremendously. The loader is heavy, however, it can be used to move the deep snow out of the way when a blade can't be pushed through, no matter how much weight you have on the back. The loader has capabilities a blade doesn't. A blade is lighter and simpler. Personally, i've found nothing will compare with a snowblower when getting snow out of the way is the object. However, you can't dig dirt in the summer with a blower. It's all in what your specific needs are. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rodco 0 #19 Posted February 7, 2010 Thanks for all the replies. I think I am going to go with regular Turf tires and chains. (I looked into the Dico tires..but at $145.00 each, I don't think so). Is there any advantage to going with larger tires? Wheels? Why do all big Farm tractors have HUGE rear tires? Thanks again ROB Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ken B 3,189 #20 Posted February 7, 2010 You can probably get 4 gallons of washer fluid in each tire for more traction as well. Just a thought. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 18,660 #21 Posted February 7, 2010 Is there any advantage to going with larger tires? Wheels? Why do all big Farm tractors have HUGE rear tires? Thanks again ROB If you are working on soft soil/mud they keep several tons of tractor from sinking out of sight. On loose soft surfaces you want a big footprint to get max drawbar pull Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HorseFixer 2,013 #22 Posted February 7, 2010 I have nothing to add except, that is a SWEET LOOKING RIG! B) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
FrankinWNY 12 #23 Posted February 7, 2010 Most guys here will recommend chains and wheel weights. I agree with the wheel weights but don't like the chains as they are hard on concrete and blacktop as well as the tractors. On my 417 I use the Carlisle AT101 24x12x12 on 8 1/2" wide rims which they are made for. They have a balloon profile and with 6# of air are very pliable and get great traction in snow or dirt. I even use them on my mower as they are not that hard on turf either. You can get them from Tires Unlimited for around $165 a pair with free shipping right now. If you saw my earlier post with my C-120 it has ATV tires, 25x8x12 on 7 1/2" rims with also work very good. A buddy has these tires loaded with washer fluid and they also perform well. Frank in WNY, tired of winter, ready to go pulling and mowing......... B) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MalMac 1,332 #24 Posted February 7, 2010 I have got a C-141 with a Ark Loader on it. I also have other tractors with blades and blowers on them. I can tell you that the loader is the worst of all. Great for stacking the snow after you have pushed it. I had to use the loader one time when other tractors were snowed in the barn. Crazy time when snow came out of the east. Anyway when I had to use the loader it was a miserable experience. Also I agree that turf tires with chains is the way to go for snow. Tim Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GlenPettit 1,717 #25 Posted February 8, 2010 WEIGHT, WEIGHT, WEIGHT: With the Loader way out front and snow/weight in it, that is a lot of heavy leverage out front "titer-tottering" on the front wheels and lightening/lifting up on the back wheels. (I have the same setup). With a loader like that, 300# or more is needed on and behind the back axle. First, fill up the perfect weight box you have, with anything heavy, metal/lead, 200# or more if you can. Then fill up the tires, those 25" tires will hold 6+ gallons, "Rim-guard" is the heaviest and best to use (2 tires x 65#@ = 130# more, and you don't need to add tubes (ask at farm/truck tire stores). Lug tires (without chains) are fine, [the smaller the 'footprint' on the ground, the more psi (#/square inch), equals better traction], your lugs are worn down and rounded, but with a lot of weight on the back, they will work OK ("pullers" would roughen the tread up with a rasp or grinder). Chains don't work well with lugs and would harm your cement, turf with 2-link chains would work, but if you use the loader/tractor in summer, the lugs + weight would give you much better traction on dirt & mud. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites