kpinnc 10,782 #1 Posted March 3, 2008 I decided to drag out the old Bronco today and just see how all this work has turned out. I stuck the old rusty rear wheels back on it, and hitched up the disc set I'm planning on fixing up for it. I wanted to make sure that my setup would actually pick the disc up, and that I had adequate ground clearance with the hitch full up. Keep in mind that when the disc is finished, it'll be almost a foot closer to the tractor. I figured testing it way out from the tractor would "max out" the amount of leverage applied to the frame, and would definately let me see if I'm gonna need more weight up front and some bracing around the rear end. Here's what it looked like, and don't make fun of my top link! The hitch pulls that heavy disc up like it's not even there, and even though the disc will be higher off the ground when it's finished (the three point portion of the disc will be set closer to the ground to start with), I already have more than enough clearance at full up: I really like how this is turning out. The disc is pretty heavy, and I was thinking it might be more than the Bronco would handle. but, I drove it around with the disc up, and it handles quite well. It only gets overly light up front when going up hill, so I will need some weight, but it's much less than I had previously feared. It also looks kinda meaty from the back: Almost time to start tearing it all down and getting it ready for paint! I think the disc will look great painted red! Kevin 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 10,782 #2 Posted March 3, 2008 Sorry fellas, I posted this twice by accident. Karl, feel free to delete one of them. I don't know how Kevin Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brrly1 1,146 #3 Posted March 3, 2008 Hello Kevin That is one great looking three point. Looks really sharp. Great Fabrication. John :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kelly 1,028 #4 Posted March 3, 2008 Kevin, It looks sweet, Did you cut part of your wish bones off the links to the lower arms? How much to make me one of those for my Bronco 14? Just kiddin, kinda. nice job. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,128 #5 Posted March 3, 2008 Kevin, that is absolutely ! ! ! ! ! You get some red paint on that stuff and it'll look factory-built! Did you ever hear of the trick of trimming a "raw edge" of sheetmetal by using small-diameter round stock? That would work great on the cut-out part of your rear fender. :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 10,782 #6 Posted March 3, 2008 Thanks for the comps guys! Kelly- Not yet, the links will be getting a new lower portion though. They tend to bind up because I made the gap too narrow. How much to make another one? Good grief- I'll have to get back to you on that. It wouldn't be cheap! Terry- Got any pics of what you're talking about? I think I know, but I don't know where to get it. Kevin Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,128 #7 Posted March 3, 2008 Terry- Got any pics of what you're talking about? I think I know, but I don't know where to get it. Kevin I usually get mine at the Ace hardware store, or TSC, Lowe's, etc. carries it too. It's just 3/16" (or 1/4") cold rolled steel rod and comes in +/- 36 inch long pieces. Hold it on the back side of the opening so it sticks out about half way past the cut edge (in your case, I would start in the middle of the top edge of the fender cut-out) and tack it in place. Work outward to each corner, tacking as you go. Heat the rod up and bend it at each corner, and finish tacking it down each side. (You could bend it first and test-fit it before you start welding it in place.) Once it's all tacked, finish welding it solid. (skip around with the welder so the sheetmetal doesn't warp from to much heat in one area -- cool it with water if you can.) You should be able to grind the welds, work it with a metal file, and have a nice finished edge when you're done. :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Greg B. 1 #8 Posted March 3, 2008 Nice job, Kevin. Terry has a good suggestion. Greg B. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nick 13 #9 Posted March 3, 2008 Kevin, The 3 point looks great and as Terry says it looks like something Wheel horse could have put on the tractor. The way it lifts that big disc removes any doubt that it would be able to handle heavy attatchments. Now you have to start working on the new fleet of 3pt attachments. Got to have a grader blade or box or both, culitivator, plow, middle buster, landscape rake and tiller. That should keep you busy for a while. Makes me wish the Load ranger 3pt was higher on the list. And some 3pt mowers came with a chain top link to allow for float so just say thats what you did it for. Nick Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
combatmp29r 27 #10 Posted March 3, 2008 Kevin it looks great I agree about the factory look of the whole deal. Oh and as far as the top link, used lots of chain top links on the farm for the harrows. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kj4kicks 151 #11 Posted March 3, 2008 Nice job Kevin !! Looks like you'll really get some use out of it ! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 10,782 #12 Posted March 3, 2008 Thanks for the comps! Terry, I haven't ever done anything like that. Definately a good idea, and I'm sure it will re-strengthen the rear fender too. Cutting the big notch in the back has left it a little "floppy". Nick, I'm already looking for more implements. I've got what I need to make a nice scraper blade, and I know where there is a NICE cultivator and 12 inch moldboard. Probably won't mess with a tiller though. Not enough room for the rear PTO with my setup. Also, I had to use the chain just because I don't have the disc set up for the 3 point yet. I've got a brand new top link, but I missed something in my plan. When I moved the top link bracket back to give me more clearance at the back of the seat, I didn't think about the fact that it would make the link itself about 2 inches too long. Remember this? I changed it to this: Now I have to get that same additional length cut out of the center of my top link. Sometimes, I'm such a doofus! I still want to brace things up around the tranny though. I got a plan for that too. May take a couple weeks, but I'll get it done. Then it'll be time for paint, stickers, and new tires. Thanks for the compliment Eldon- but I'm sending it to you for paint! Think I can ship it cheap? Kevin Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rollerman 290 #13 Posted March 3, 2008 Kevin I'm floored...that is SWEET Looks great with the disc in the air...throw a suit case rack together for the front with some small light weights & it will look slick. Thanks for putting that pic on today...been real curious to see how the whole setup looked. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nick 13 #14 Posted March 3, 2008 Kevin, I found most of a sears self powered tiller I might try with the Load Ranger. You could do somthing similar just larger. I think it was on MTF that I saw a Wheel Horse tiller with an engine added and then used on a 3pt hitch. There is the extra cost with the engine but it is fast to hook up. Either way your 3pt opens up all kinds of ideas for attatchments. Nick Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 10,782 #15 Posted March 3, 2008 Thanks Stephen. It's got a long way to go yet, but I think the hard part is over! I agree on the front suitcase weights too. Still looking for some smaller ones, all I can find have "JD" cast into the sides! Aside from the obvious problem with that, most folks here corelate "JD" insignia to "Fort Knox". I'm thinking of adding a front "tach-a-matic" hitch, and making the bracket for the weights connect up that way. Otherwise, I won't be able to raise the hood. Kevin Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 10,782 #16 Posted March 3, 2008 Sorry Nick, we must've posted about the same time. I hadn't even thought of that, and I know someone who has one of those! I've got a regular Wheel Horse rear tiller. Wonder how much HP you'd need to make it effective? I could mount the engine right on top of the tine cover, and run a belt with a centrifugal clutch to the tiller pulley. Making the 3 point part would be simple! Awesome idea! Thanks! Kevin Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 10,782 #17 Posted March 31, 2008 I tried a few different ways of doing it, but I just couldn't figure out the best way to operate two hydraulic cylinders with one valve. Sure, one valve would've operated both mid and rear lifts, but they would've always been out of sync because they hold different amounts of fluid in the cylinders. Plus, they would've moved much slower. A couple weeks ago, I picked up a twin spool valave from a D series tractor. I had to make a mount for it, but it looks kinda nice on the Bronco: Gives plenty of room to operate the handles, which is what I was most worried about given where I put it: I had to make the mounting bracket, but it turned out pretty nice: Just one more thing I needed to wrap up before stripping this nasty thing down and getting ready for paint. Now to get the tranny mount braced up! Kevin Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
combatmp29r 27 #18 Posted March 31, 2008 Looks Good Kevin :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Greg B. 1 #19 Posted March 31, 2008 Nice looking install there, Kevin. Looks like it grew there. Greg B. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 10,782 #20 Posted March 31, 2008 Thanks for the comps fellas. Now I gotta figure out how to cram 6 hydraulic hoses under it! Kevin Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nick 13 #21 Posted March 31, 2008 That valve does look nice kevin. Makes me wish I had kept the one I just sold but you have sell some toys to get others, if it works the LR might have 3 spools. I have never done steel lines but you might be able to save some room if you could run steel up into the tractor then change over to hoses. That D runs steel part way to the cylinders. Nick Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 10,782 #22 Posted March 31, 2008 Great point Nick. I hadn't thought of that... 3 spools on the Load Ranger? Can't wait to see it! They'd look good on the Bronco too! Thanks! Kevin Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kj4kicks 151 #23 Posted March 31, 2008 Kevin, nice job !! The fab work looks..... fabulous ! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 10,782 #24 Posted March 31, 2008 Thanks Eldon! Will you paint it for me? Kevin Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
T-Mo-(Moderator) 4,345 #25 Posted March 31, 2008 It looks like it belongs there, Kevin. Great job. :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites